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Double Bass Neck finish?

#25
GretschWretch said:
A light sanding with a fine grit paper to remove the gloss should suffice. E-bassists do it all the time to make their high-gloss necks have more of a satin finish.
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Not applicable in this specific case but just for future reference note that it won't work on a nitro finish. You can knock down the gloss on a nitro finish but unlike poly just playing it quickly buffs the gloss back in. On both my nitro finished necks I sanded them down to wood and refinished with boiled linseed oil. In any case I much prefer linseed oil to roughed up poly....it feels...woodier. It's something you can easily do yourself and since it's such a standard thing on a double bass it won't decrease the value of the instrument one bit.
 
#28
Steve Bennett said:
Is the back of the neck on a DB completely bare? Or do people use an oil and wax finish like on Music Man basses?
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Hi Steve,
1. I have a Juzek that has a bare wood neck (area) that I "polish" every few months using 1500 grit sandpaper, (Dry) and NO OIL. This grit (1500) does not remove any wood, but only polishes and leaves a very smooth, dry finish.
The 1500 grit Wet/Dry sandpaper is made by 3M and is available online or at Automotive Paint stores. (I've never understood why any "oil" or "wax" of any type would be used on a bare wood neck?)
2. I have also used it (1500) to finish and polish the necks of my (4) Warmoth BG necks, that have been sealed with Satin Marine Varnish. Using it "Wet" (H20), makes for a very slick/slippery finish.
Thanks.
 
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#29
This neck treatment that I have used and will swear by was taught to me by my luthier friend, Harry Vatiliotis of Sydney, who made two basses for me. First sand off the cheap varnish using 120 then 400 sand paper until all is removed and wood is smooth. Then rub on thin shellac with a rag. As the alchohol evaporates off the rag begins to stick to the thin layer of shellac. At this point rub boiled linseed over the neck with another rag then take a clean rag and polish off most of the oil. The neck will feel silky smooth, can be used straight away and will never need re-treating. My basses are nearly 30 years old and shifting is as easy as ever.

That is very good advice above about the danger of spontaneous combustion of some vegetable oils on rags. Some warnings say store the used rags under water in a jar.

Cheers, DP
 
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#30
tsheldon said:
Just a note of caution. Please keep linseed oil soaked rags in an airtight metal container. There's a very real spontaneous combustion risk. I would hate someone who is not familiar get into trouble that way.
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This is no myth, in case anyone is skeptical. A friend of mine burned down part of one of his buildings because he set an open can of linseed-oil-soaked rags in a corner. There are "myth-buster" type videos of this, on youtube, as well. This is the real deal. The oil-soaked rags will begin to smoke, and eventually burst into flames. No heat-source needed.

If you spread them out, they will simply dry. Evidently the being piled with limited air is the problem. I have done it hundreds of times and never had a problem, but piled or stored in a container, they are a good way to burn down your shop or home.
 
#31
If you want a slick satin finish, you can also consider tung. Smells nicer, and like BLO, also a fire hazard, as Mr. Bishop points out. Edit: and tung does not darken w/ age.

I think the process of hardening produces heat; if you pile the rag up, it gets warmer & warmer & can start a fire. If you spread it out, it does not get hot. Just hard.
 
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