After looking at the rattle can refinish club and being thoroughly impressed, I've started making plans to get some warmoth parts and finsih them in this way. The problem: for Warmoth to finsih a neck is ridculously pricey. So I figured: What if I used the same method as with the body on the neck? Just some automotive clearcoat? Not sure if it would work. Experts?
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Neck Finishing
- Thread starter UnfortunateTony
- Start date
Should be fine, local friends and I have had great results from Deft lacquer and the Minwax equivalent, I haven't tried the automotive stuff but he claims its great.
I'm currently experimenting with aircraft dope for a clear coat.
It's easy to work with and is very forgiving. It polishes as high or as dull as you might want and it will re-blend and re-melt into itself for repairs later on if you need to make them.
And it can be had in very rich colors that are surprisingly close to the older automotive enamels and lacquers of the ole Fender paint shop.
I have covered necks and headstocks with the Ultra Gloss clear Urethane from Krylon with tremendous success too.
It's easy to work with and is very forgiving. It polishes as high or as dull as you might want and it will re-blend and re-melt into itself for repairs later on if you need to make them.
And it can be had in very rich colors that are surprisingly close to the older automotive enamels and lacquers of the ole Fender paint shop.
I have covered necks and headstocks with the Ultra Gloss clear Urethane from Krylon with tremendous success too.
edit... I just noticed you were asking about spray cans and the info I posted below is for the stuff that needs a spray gun.
I just completed a guitar with automotive catalized clear on the body and neck but The fretboard is wenge with cream binding and I used teak oil on the fretboard.... so I don't know how the automotive clear would be on the fretboard.
The good: it can be level sanded and polished the next day.. it builds quickly too.
The bad: it does not "cut" into previous layers and any sanding dust from a previous coat will remain white and not cut back in.
I just completed a guitar with automotive catalized clear on the body and neck but The fretboard is wenge with cream binding and I used teak oil on the fretboard.... so I don't know how the automotive clear would be on the fretboard.
The good: it can be level sanded and polished the next day.. it builds quickly too.
The bad: it does not "cut" into previous layers and any sanding dust from a previous coat will remain white and not cut back in.
