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Double Bass Neck Thickness Question

Feb 25, 2005
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west coast
I realize this type of thing is very subjective, but I’m wondering if there’s a “standard” or generally accepted range of neck thickness (front to back). I feel like my neck is excessively thick, or deep may be a better word.
Not having access to other basses these days I don’t have much to compare to.
Thank You Folks!
 
Is it uncomfortable to play?
I’m just getting back to playing DB more seriously again after taking many years off...so the entire operation isn’t exactly “comfortable”. I can’t shake the feeling that having some of the meat shaved off could/would make it more comfortable.
I think I probably just need to get my hands on some other basses after a bit and re-determine what some of my preferences are maybe.
 
I don't think I've ever played a bass that had a neck that was too thick. OTOH, I've played several that had uncomfortably thin necks, and my hand cramps badly after a few minutes. You may not have the same issue, but it would be worthwhile to try a thinner neck (must be some Kays around) before committing to irreversible changes (with, I'd expect, an accompanying decrease in resale value) on yours.
 
Neck thickness is one of the choice factors in setup, and I expect you'll find that it varies pretty widely. Factory-built Kay basses, which you might expect to be uniform, range in neck thickness from 30 to over 35mm at the first position, depending on the fingerboard wood (of course increasing up the neck). I have one with a replacement fingerboard that makes 42mm.

The MENC educational standards, which call for detailed dimensions of stringed instruments for students nationwide, do not even mention neck thickness.

In his book String Instrument Setups, Chuck Traeger specifies a standard of 38mm "at the A on the G string," thicker than most Kays but less so than my thickest, which was set up by the Cincinnati Symph.
 
That’s very cool information, and I do appreciate the measurements also!
Mine is on the thicker side as I suspected, 41mm at the nut and 50mm just before the heel.
That’s about right. I wouldn’t go much below that for fear of warping unless the fingerboard was already thick. Chuck Traeger’s measurement is on the thin side. There’s a reason most old Kay’s have warped necks.
 
My personal neck is 41mm wide at the nut, 43mm deep at the volute, and 45mm deep at the D stop; intentionally built to those specs for my hands and playing style. I'd call it slightly larger than average, but with a very specific profile.

The profile and shape of the neck are just as important as the overall depth. Often taking a mm or two from the sides of the neck curvature so it goes from a circular to elliptical shape will result in more change of feel than removing 2 mm from the overall thickness and changing a circle to a "D" shape. Subtle refinements tend to make big tactile differences.

IF you are going to change the profile of your neck, you are the only person who can truly understand what you are searching for. Taking it to someone else and declaring, "The neck is too thick. Please fix it...", can easily be overdone by someone else who can turn your 41 mm classic German profile into a telecaster neck. Then you just paid good money to $#@% up a functional neck!

It is not semiconductor physics; start with something like 220 grit sandpaper and give it a go. It is almost impossible to sand a neck too thin with 220 grit: Sand a little... play the bass for a week or so...sand a little bit more...play more...repeat. Once you get it to where you like, work the final sanding through 220>400>800>1200 to 0000 steel wool and then a bit of walnut oil.

The alternative would be to come by the shop the next time you are in Asheville. Bring those 4 pieces of sandpaper + steel wool and a tasty six pack of malted adult beverages or whatever else you need, as long as there is enough for two folks. By the time the sandpaper is trashed and there are six wounded soldiers laying on the floor, we'll have fixed your neck profile, played a bunch of tunes, and enjoyed a nice afternoon of laughter & storytelling while watching the chickens outrun the Redtail hawks, possums, and dogs around the garden in the big back yard park here at corporate headquarters...
 
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The profile and shape of the neck are also important. Often taking a mm or two from the sides of the neck curvature will result in more change of feel than removing 2 mm from the overall thickness. Subtle refinements tend to make big tactile differences.

IF you are going to change the profile of your neck, you are the only person who can truly understand what you are searching for. Taking it to someone lese and declaring, "The neck is too thick. Please fix it...", can easily be overdone by someone else who can turn your 41 mm classic German profile into a telecaster neck. Then you just paid good money to $#@% up a functional neck!

It is not semiconductor physics; start with something like 220 grit sandpaper and give it a go. It is almost impossible to sand a neck too thin with 220 grit: Sand a little... play the bass for a week or so...sand a little bit more...play more...repeat. Once you get it to where you like, work the final sanding through 220>400>800>1200 to 0000 steel wool and then a bit of walnut oil.

The alternative would be to come by the shop the next time you are in Asheville. Bring those 4 pieces of sandpaper + steel wool and a tasty six pack of malted adult beverages or whatever else you need, as long as there is enough for two folks. By the time the sandpaper is trashed and there are six wounded soldiers laying on the floor, we'll have fixed your neck profile, played a bunch of tunes, and enjoyed a nice afternoon of laughter & storytelling while watching the chickens outrun the Redtail hawks, possums, and dogs around the garden in the big back yard park here at corporate headquarters...
That actually sounds like a little slice of heaven!
I’ve pretty much decided to let the neck thing ride. Once again, the calming pool of knowledge of the DB forum has put my mind at rest somewhat.
Being that this was considered a “serious student” instrument at the time I bought it many years ago it crossed my mind that it may be slightly overbuilt, sacrificing a bit of playability for stability.
Back story for me was shipping-off to Germany when I was a kid to study with a youth symphony. They had a room with some Pollmanns...a couple were 5 strings...lion heads...I was somewhat blown away. The bass they loaned me to take home was an old flat back, Czech I think. It was heavy as hell and the action was pretty high. It was solid but was pretty much like one giant repair. Everyone had a little smile when they saw me lugging it out of there in it’s old canvas bag...I had to take it back and forth on the bus.
One of the guys in the section that was somewhat friendly told me as the weeks went on that they just wanted me to know that “playing the bass is not going to be easy”.
When I got home the next year I got a 80’s German 4/4 that I still currently have and sometimes that still creeps into my head...and yes I’m a little neurotic. The guy that built this bass wants me to know that it’s not going to be easy lol!
 
There has to be a balance, in everything but that’s a bit off point.

Sure, playing the DB takes more physical effort than a buttery smooth Fender jazz; that’s a given. I’ve literally been told, ‘if it’s not hard to play it won’t sound good’. That’s complete BS, bunk, cow patty, &#$@)(*&$#&&*(*&

I replaced a fingerboard on a nice German bass over a year ago and left the fingerboard fairly thick, with the neck about 44 mm in first position. The customer and I agreed that he would play it for a while and let me know. Well, he recently brought it back to have it thinned. I took it down to about 41 mm and must admit that I like it much better.

I’ve seen luthiers replace fingerboards and leave 2/3 of the ebony on the floor so there is not enough for future dressings, or for stability of the neck. That’s not right.

Don’t be too quick to remove the wood but don’t play a bass that doesn’t feel right either. You have to play the thing.
 
...

The alternative would be to come by the shop the next time you are in Asheville. Bring those 4 pieces of sandpaper + steel wool and a tasty six pack of malted adult beverages or whatever else you need, as long as there is enough for two folks. By the time the sandpaper is trashed and there are six wounded soldiers laying on the floor, we'll have fixed your neck profile, played a bunch of tunes, and enjoyed a nice afternoon of laughter & storytelling while watching the chickens outrun the Redtail hawks, possums, and dogs around the garden in the big back yard park here at corporate headquarters...

Congrats on making (I assume) not a few of us mighty jealous of your operation! :D
 
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