Need recommendations for repurposed Rumble 150W 15" speaker

[shell_]

Howdy folks, I need some advice

the ice amp in my Rumble 150W combo is shot RIP, but instead of repairing (which I was told was costly) I decided to rewire the 4 ohm 15" Fender "special design speaker" to a passive cab with a 1/4" input. I thought 'sick, I cannot wait to work this into my normal rig which is a 4 string bass into pedalboard splitting signals to bass amp, our late Rumble, then to 1 or two guitar combo amps. And even if that wouldn't work for me in that setup, I could always use it as a monitor or at home pa or the like.' I've heard 15" can be 'throaty' for a guitar, but for my altered bass signal it could be a new sound and obviously now I want to know... and know how to.

Ideally: I would like this on to work on one of the guitar amp's place, but I would need a lower wattage amphead from what I understand given the 15" is only 150w. If that wouldn't work overall like I said I am fine working this as an at home amp.

I'm new to heads and cabs, but understand so far to match the ohms and less than or equal to the wattage of the amplifier signal (and most of these amps aren't 'full wattage' until you parallel or something)
Looking for recommendations on what I could look out for, like g/b amp heads under or at 150W? thanks and best

 

[Redbrangus]

Your old speaker won't sound much -- if any -- different with a different amp than it did with the old one. If that works for you, then yes, you can modify your old combo to be a stand-alone speaker cab. Since it's a 4Ω speaker, you won't be able to parallel it with another speaker cab on most of the amps you'll encounter because most of the low power amps aren't rated for the resultant 'too low' load impedance. Be sure there is absolutely no connection to the old combo amp. Is the 1/4" jack in the second pic the input to the speaker cab or the output of the amp? Did you... uhh.... 'install' that jack?

As far as an amp recommendation goes, any of the current generation of 200-watt mini amps would be a pretty good match, IMO, like the TC BAM, the Trace Elliot Elf, or the Warwick Gnome. If you get an amp with a Speakon output, that would be a pretty good reason/excuse to replace that 1/4" jack with a Speakon too.

 

[basscooker]

Does the HF driver run from its HPF inside the cab or from the head? Have you (as asked above) 100% confirmed there is no connectivity in place between the amp and its cab?

Also consider that using some micro amps with a 1/4" plug dangling like that does open the possibility of creating another blown amp if the plug jacket touches something metal.

 

[shell_]

I will obtain a proper photo of the inside when I can, thanks for responses!

Your old speaker won't sound much -- if any -- different with a different amp than it did with the old one.

Can you explain this? From what I understand about t*ne, I figured the preceding circuit could be a decent factor for a different sound via same speaker. Hence, I have the interest in sending an altered ‘guitar like’ signal through via shifters and preQs or synth machines, etc goodies like I already do with the guitar combos’ signals. I figure a basically dry bass signal should sound way different than my gbass chain described above. I’m open on this, my setup is in free fall still lacking a replacement bass amp for the low/dry signal.

Be sure there is absolutely no connection to the old combo amp. Is the 1/4" jack in the second pic the input to the speaker cab or the output of the amp? Did you... uhh.... 'install' that jack?

What I know is what after talking to the technician (that initially inspected the amp) about my interest in making it a passive speaker: they said 'no problem, done that before’ and I observed them then remove a molex connector from the board, and the speaker wires were removed from the connector and soldered to the 1/4" sleeve shown in the picture (which, message received, I need to insulate/wrap that regardless). He then gave it taps with a multimeter and it gave a signs of life. Sounds like I need to double check the other sleeves/connector to make sure they're snubbed/ also not dangling as well.

As far as an amp recommendation goes, any of the current generation of 200-watt mini amps would be a pretty good match, IMO, like the TC BAM, the Trace Elliot Elf, or the Warwick Gnome. If you get an amp with a Speakon output, that would be a pretty good reason/excuse to replace that 1/4" jack with a Speakon too.

I think these are great but can't help but double check: won't the 200W amphead be slightly too beefy for the speaker and risk damaging it? Also is there another mechanical advantage to speakon other than locking in place?

Does the HF driver run from its HPF inside the cab or from the head? Have you (as asked above) 100% confirmed there is no connectivity in place between the amp and its cab?

The above said and looking at the rumble schematic, I’m not certain about the HF driver; I did not note the tweeter connection so hopefully a pic later could clear some of that up. I know i read somewhere in the manual the power amp output is sending 160W at 4 ohms which I figured the HFS was the extra 10W. Not sure if that helps, I am no electrician.

 

[Wasnex]

If you are not going to repair the old amp, pull it out of the sleeve and toss it. Not need to carry around dead weight.

If there are only two wires going to the speaker, AFAIK the crossover has to be inside of the speaker cab. Having the crossover in the amp would require 3 or 4 wires.

IMHO install a proper panel mount speaker jack (or two) in the cab. Consider using speakON. If the new jack is placed in different location, plug the hole the original speaker cable runs through.

Before going through the trouble of installing a guitar amp, make sure the speaker actually sounds good with your style of guitar.

Consider sawing the amp sleeve off the top of the cab. Use your own judgment whether this makes sense or not.

 

[singlemalt]

If the rumble head is dead, I’d figure out how to remove it from the combo.

Now you have a cab with an empty slot you can mount your new mini amp in. Velcro should do it.

150 watt rating on the driver doesn’t limit you on amps, just be aware that you might have more on tap than the driver can handle, and use the volume knob and you ears and common sense.

Parts Express is a great source for cab hardware like an input jack mounting dish. You might want to go with a speakon connector.

You might want to pull the grill off, remove the driver and see what kind of crossover is in there, if any. You can bypass that if you no longer want that thing.

Mount the input jack, label it 4 ohm and off you go.

 

[agedhorse]

Why not simply have the amp properly repaired, they aren't that difficult (for a qualified tech).

 

[shell_]

Before going through the trouble of installing a guitar amp, make sure the speaker actually sounds good with your style of guitar.

Consider sawing the amp sleeve off the top of the cab. Use your own judgment whether this makes sense or not.

It does make sense! This unit weighs over 50 lbs I cannot wait to shave it and sans amp, regardless.

You might want to pull the grill off, remove the driver and see what kind of crossover is in there, if any. You can bypass that if you no longer want that thing.

I think I’m good! I cannot currently see a use for the little guy but wouldn’t hesitate to do the same there from what is happening here

Why not simply have the amp properly repaired, they aren't that difficult (for a qualified tech).

I wanted to! It was a workhorse for 13 years, but i was told by my tech in Atlanta these fender dclass ice amps were hard to come by, as in requiring salvaging other rumble 150’s. Honestly, it was my intention 100% to avoid landfill scenario and repurpose so I didn’t hesitate but did not think of getting a second opinion.
the family photo^ no amp or otherwise related wires or metal are present in the unit (insulation strips?) aside the tweeter molex—


Thank you all, you’ve been great help~

 

[agedhorse]

I wanted to! It was a workhorse for 13 years, but i was told by my tech in Atlanta these fender dclass ice amps were hard to come by, as in requiring salvaging other rumble 150's. Honestly, it was my intention 100% to avoid landfill scenario and repurpose so I didn't hesitate but did not think of getting a second opinion.



Thank you all, you've been great help~

Your tech is full of crap, the class D power module is an industry standard part, is still in production, and can be ordered from Fender if they are an authorized service center. It’s Fender part #0076030000.

Any truly qualified service tech would know this information.

 

[Redbrangus]

I'm guessing this tech is the same person who soldered that loose 1/4" jack on the end of the speaker cable. Just sayin'....

 

[basscooker]

I'm still unclear on the HPF
If the HF has that connection where is the HPF and will the HF get any signal?

If there isn't a filter in the cab, OP needs one, or the cab won't sound the same regardless, right?

 

[basscooker]

Hours later, hehe

I guess the tweeter would probably be sub-optimal for guitar anyway


I'm just personally (simply) interested to know. Is the tweeter crossed over within the amp chassis or not? Is the tweeter control [if there is one] active?

So many folks like to mod Rumbles; and I get it. They're {|[good]|} amps and used, they're fine platforms to tinker with inexpensively.

BUT!?!?!

If the combos (or SOME OF THEM) are 2-way and have their HPF within the amp chassis; /:.......

Modding a "dead" combo into a stand-alone cab requires an extra step (making a HOME GROWN HPF) to sound the same as the designed cabinet.

OPs case may not apply since the plan involves maybe an overdrive and guitar.

Just spitting that out, here.


@G-Dog

 

[agedhorse]

I'm still unclear on the HPF
If the HF has that connection where is the HPF and will the HF get any signal?

If there isn't a filter in the cab, OP needs one, or the cab won't sound the same regardless, right?

I believe on that model the HF element is piezo which still has a 47 ohm resistor in series. If there are 2 wires coming out of the amp into the cabinet, the resistor is inside the cabinet. If there are 4 wires, the resistor is in the chassis. The docs aren't clear and they did it both ways historically.

 

[agedhorse]

I'm guessing this tech is the same person who soldered that loose 1/4" jack on the end of the speaker cable. Just sayin'....

This plus his comments about the part being unavailable make me seriously doubt his qualifications.

 

[singlemalt]

What would this repair, done by a reputable tech cost? Parts and labor?

If there isn’t a repair shop close by, would the OP need to remove the amp and ship just the chassis?

I’m just curious. Atlanta is a big place, surely there’s someplace there that can handle a repair.

Anybody else wonder that there is not a scrap of insulation in that particle board box?

It’s a shame that OP got a bum steer on the repair. That turned it into a “what do I do with this driver/box?” DIY kind of thread.

My favorite kind!

I’m just wondering what that amp is worth, versus the repair cost?