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Need some advice for modding a rumble

#22
JakobT said:
I don’t disagree, but I also don’t feel tightening a loose screw is unreasonable. Note that I said tightening, not over tightening.
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I mentioned overtightening because I see a lot of damage from over tightening in spite of the customer insisting that they didn’t overtighten.
 
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#23
agedhorse said:
If you already know it all, why are you asking for advice modding your cabinet

I feel that we have been down this road before.
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I asked for a few different things. I asked about knobs. I asked about grill cloth and I asked if there were any "known" common rattles that would make my job easier. No need to make things they arent. I asked very simple questions. Sometimes people give good answers. I don't know it all. Never said I did. You've got some image of me in your head, but thats not who i am. You tend single 1 thing out of many in my post and grill me about that out of context. We have DEFINITELY been here before but I don't feel like bickering today, so have a pleasant rest of your day. It doesn't always have to be so serious.
 
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#28
Pocket Dave said:
Bass frequecies & cabinets are the audio versions of optical illusions when it comes identifying rattles.

My 410 sounds like it's rattle comes from the right side of the bottom vent/port, even when you put your ear nearby.

It's actually coming from a large, wooden office cabinet across and diagonal from it.
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I get it. It's kinda like a thrown voice. A little piece of metal rod or broom stick works wonders. Use it's like a stethoscope to pin point hard to locate noises.
 
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#32
S-Bigbottom said:
You are not the first or the 500th that has said this, done all the gluein' and screwin' and other things only to come back and it is still there.

Then,
"Crap... :banghead:
It was a model airplane that was sitting on the shelf this whole time.
I moved it and now the cab sounds great."

This happens very often.
Do not dismiss until tried.
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Straight fact. I had a Greenboy fEARful 12/6.. tightened all screws, made sure the grill padded around the edges. Still buzzing/rattling... tuned out to be one of the speaker wires bouncing off of the 12" driver.
 
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#33
Drop1 said:
I can hear when a a noise is coming from the cab or room. It's not difficult. I can tell you right now there are a BUNCH of rattles in the house. But there is a small one coming from the top back right near the gain control on the cab. I haven't figured out if it is the jack or the knob but I'm fairly certisn it's one of those 2. If I can make a whole car interior not rattle , I'm sure I can handle a cab.
Something else I know. Blanket coverage "rarely" works for specific noises. Sometimes treating panels helps a little but I find it much better to identify exactly where the noise is coming from and coming up with a tailer made solution to address every instance with it'd own solution.

That solution could be a bit of butyl, a bit of non hardened modeling clay, a rubber band, a drop of silicon in just the right spots, closed or open cell foam and a slew of other things. I've used all kinds of approaches depending on where the rattle is and weather or not its in an electrical component like switches or care needs to be taken to not block drainage or stop moving parts from functioning properly.
You like to pick on my about car audio, but imagine for a moment what it takes to makes all those resonating parts inside a car inaudible. It took me months to find the last rattle on my truck but she's dead silent now. That last rattle was a mid bass driver causing the passenger door mirror to vibrate where it clamped into the mirror housing. Tracking physical noise isn't new to me and I'm very, VERY good at it.

I'm fact, during the span of me typing this ibe already found the main noise on the cab. The nut on thr input jack was slightly lose. Just finger tightening made it stop.
There is a buzz on the shelf behind the cab, but I don't feel like looking for it right now lol.
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Jeez.
 
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#35
Drop1 said:
Rattles and buzzes. These are not acceptable to me on a cab. I know it's common on most cabs, but I dont like it.

I'd like to do something similar with the rumble. Just track down every little thing making noise and make it stop. Has anyone done anything like this on a cab?

I did it to my crate, but that was easy. It only made noise where the amp attached to the box. A thin layer of butyl stopped that easily. I hear quite a few more rattles on the fender. Gonna start tracking them this evening . Any ideas about common places combos rattle/buzz?
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O.P.,

Is this a brand new combo you just purchased or used?

If this is brand new and has rattles and buzzes from the get-go, why are you, the customer, trying to repair what appears to be a poorly constructed bass cabinet?

Plus, if this is brand new and you start taking things apart to make repairs/mods you'll probably void the warranty.

Myself, I'd be returning it either for a full refund or a new replacement.
 
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#36
S-Bigbottom said:
You are not the first or the 500th that has said this, done all the gluein' and screwin' and other things only to come back and it is still there.

Then,
"Crap... :banghead:
It was a model airplane that was sitting on the shelf this whole time.
I moved it and now the cab sounds great."

This happens very often.
Do not dismiss until tried.
Click to expand...

Definitely happened to me!
 
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#37
I just got a Rumble 2-10 cabinet. I bought a Rumble 200 combo a few years back. No issues with any rattles or buzzes from either product.
The only thing I'd want - is to mod the 200, so there's an on off switch for the always on limiter.
 
#38
shoot-r said:
O.P.,

Is this a brand new combo you just purchased or used?

If this is brand new and has rattles and buzzes from the get-go, why are you, the customer, trying to repair what appears to be a poorly constructed bass cabinet?

Plus, if this is brand new and you start taking things apart to make repairs/mods you'll probably void the warranty.

Myself, I'd be returning it either for a full refund or a new replacement.
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It's nothing major. Definitely not worth returning it. The main noise was just a loose jack nut. Didn't even have to open it.

I'd does make some noise when it's near full volume. (The room makes WAY more) I don't see how it couldn't..the wood is rather thin and light and has quite a bit of flex.

I like that its light. I don't like the flex. It's so light that it moves on the floor under its own power. Never seen that before. Kinda weird. Never had a cab just randomly move several inches.
 
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#40
Plain Old Barry said:
A mistake not limited to musicians. Many a DIY mechanic who has never used a torque wrench has caused big problems by reefing everything down as hard as they can.
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I dont mess with cars and that's one of the main reasons. Far too many parts need specific torque values. Some parts far more torque than I'm comfortable using, others very little. Just barely over hand tight. I leave that to the pros.
 
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