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Need Some Feedback

You also mentioned "check out the usual stuff before you buy", what would that include? This would be the first time I purchase a bass.

Hopefully someone else will chime in if I forget something, but usually you'll want to visually inspect the bass:

Sight down the neck and see if its twisted or has a weird bend to it (Something not correctable by a truss rod adjustment...looks like a rolercoaster with bumps, etc. I'm not talking about normal relief).

Check the frets to see if they are in good condition...don't have sharp edges coming out of the side of the fretboard that will cut you and aren't worn down.

Check the neck/body joint to make sure that the neck is aligned properly. Pay particular attention for an excessive gap between the body and neck.

Check the body and neck for damage. Cracks, chips, scrapes, etc... Cosmetic damage is one thing, actual functional damage is another entirely.

Check the truss rod and make sure it works. If you don't know how to do this take a look at the sticky section in the setup section here on TB.

Check the tuners and make sure they are attached solidly and turn without binding.

Plug in the bass and check all the knobs, switches and jack. Turn all the knobs and switches one at a time and listen for static, distortion or popping. Make sure everything works. Make sure everything feels solid.

With the bass plugged in, play each note on the neck individually to check for dead spots and bad/uneven frets.

Finally check anything else you can think of. How the screws holding on the bridge and pickguard are sunk into the bass (are they straight or crooked?). How the pickguard is aligned (does it look like it was put on correctly?). Check the bridge. Make sure its centered correctly. If not the strings will be off-centered on the fretboard. Are the inlays on the neck smooth with the fretboard? Is there excessive glue visible around them? Does the nut look good? Etc...

Hope that helps.
 
From everything I have read, the greatest complaint with the Badass Bass Bridges is they have to be professionally installed, something to do with drilling angles ect. and that if you attempt to install it yourself you could end up with more problems. Also, I heard the older models of the MiM were a lot better produced than the newer ones and that most of the complaints of the MiM's are the post 1998 (i think), and mostly come from models purchased online.

My local music store, and I would think this may be standard with most stores; is to offer one free setup. I had mine installed when I brought my American Deluxe in, and a set of Marcus Miller strings. I could have done this on my own as they are easy to install. For me the Bad Ass bridges do make a difference in sustain.
 

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Check the truss rod and make sure it works. If you don't know how to do this take a look at the sticky section in the setup section here on TB.

Are the inlays on the neck smooth with the fretboard? Is there excessive glue visible around them? Does the nut look good? Etc...

Not quite up to speed on my bass lingo yet. What are inlays, and "the nut"?

Also, I couldn't find that sticky you mentioned in the setup section.

Thanks for the help.
 
I have no idea if it is Korean or Japanese, is there a way to tell? and is there a difference in quality?

In value, yes. In quality, yes.

What I know is that a bassplayer who use to have a genuine Stingray as main instrument and bought an ATK as a sidekick soon used this ATK as a main instrument. It's like an Uber Stingray, so to say.

Mainly the code beginning with a C (Cort) is Korean. The Japanese
begins with an F (Fujigen).
 
In value, yes. In quality, yes.

What I know is that a bassplayer who use to have a genuine Stingray as main instrument and bought an ATK as a sidekick soon used this ATK as a main instrument. It's like an Uber Stingray, so to say.

Mainly the code beginning with a C (Cort) is Korean. The Japanese
begins with an F (Fujigen).

Thanks for everything,

Also, I have an update on that Ibanez ATK 300. It has no serial number whatsoever but still has the Ibanez Logo on the head stock. Also, the neck is fully laminated which, from what its owner tells me, is out of the ordinary because most ATK 300's don't have a fully laminated neck. Any reasons why, his suggestion is that it was a first production/prototype bass, and that it is probably a 1994/5 edition.

Any thoughts?
 
From everything I have read, the greatest complaint with the Badass Bass Bridges is they have to be professionally installed, something to do with drilling angles ect. and that if you attempt to install it yourself you could end up with more problems. Also, I heard the older models of the MiM were a lot better produced than the newer ones and that most of the complaints of the MiM's are the post 1998 (i think), and mostly come from models purchased online.

Ahh ok, my bad then. Sorry. And regarding MIM quality, mine is a '95 so that would put it back when MIM quality was of a higher standard going by what you've heard.
 

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