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New Board Completed

New Pedalboard...

I put the finishing touches on my new pedalboard build last week.

Signal chain.... Interface---EBVP Jr. (I added a Griffen Effects Buffer)---Boss OC-2---EH Bass Big Muff---WMD Super Fatman---TC Corona Chorus---Boss DD-5 (tap tempo w/ Boss FS-5U)---EH Small Stone Nano---TECH 21 VT Bass---Empress Compressor---Interface.

EBVP Jr. Tuner Out---TC Polytune---Interface. This allows me to send a signal back to the rack tuner in my primary rig. I have a second smaller rig that I need the board tuner for. Why not have just a board tuner you say? That wouldn't be fun. I like having the rack mount tuner.

Switchcraft and GLS Audio Plugs. Mogami 2319 cable. All audio and power cables custom made to length.

I'll get a picture later tonight with all the LEDs on.

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Pedal%20Board%201_zpsyccr9qo3.jpg
 
Like everybody else I'm going to just remark on your cable management.

I've never had a board permanent enough to go all Civil Engineering on it. Even when my board went unchanged for three years I still always felt it wasn't permanent enough to put that sort of effort in. But I am jealous.
 
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If you are willing to share some of your techniques and methods, I have some questions:

1. What is the box labelled: RRS TTG?
2. How many feet of power cord and interconnects did you roughly use?
3. What did you use to hold down the cables?
4. What type of cable is used to send 9v power to all of the devices?

gorgeous!

1. That's a pedalboard interface that I've had for a few years. It was build by Dave Phillips of L.A. Sound Design. It's essentially a very simple patch bay that allows all of the pedalboard's terminal points to come together in one place. On the right you have "T A G" - Tuner / Amp / Guitar. Bass Guitar signal to "G" Input through to "S", which sends to Volume Pedal. "R" denotes a return. The middle return is the signal coming from the Empress Compressor, going though to "A", which is a send back to the amp. The top return is the signal coming from the Polytune (fed from the tuner out on the volume pedal), going through to "T", which is a send back to a rack tuner (I also made a stage snake for the audio cables going between the pedalboard and my rack. Cables are housed in expandable braided sleeving. I'll post pictures of this tomorrow from my gig). The rack tuner may seem redundant, but I've had one for years in whatever my main rig is at the time. My secondary rig doesn't have a rack tuner, so I put one on the floor. So why the labeling? It just makes things easier, makes things look organized, and in the unfortunate and unlikely event that I need to quickly troubleshoot something at a gig, I don't have to really think about what's going where. The very top of the interface is a power though with Neutrik powerCon connectors. The powerCon connectors are not original to the interface. I recently added them when I built this board. There was another set of 1/4" jacks in that position, which I removed. I then modified the interface to accommodate the powerCon connectors.

2. I initially bought 80 feet of the Mogami 2319 cable. 40 feet of that was used for the two audio cables going from the pedalboard to my rack( 2 x 20 ft cables). I don't know exactly how many feet of cable were used for the board, but I have plenty left over. Including the stage snake, there are a total of 30 1/4" plugs. Lots of soldering.

3. The hardware used to hold down the cabling are "1" adhesive backed mounting bases". These can be purchased at Home Depot, Lowes, Amazon, etc. You can get a bag of 100 for right around $10. They are made to be used with zip ties, which can also be purchased at the previously listed retail locations. These are also great to use in the back side of racks for cable management.

4. To make the power cables, I purchased Invalid Link Removed from Mouser.com. I used a total of of 18. Again, lots of soldering, and at first this may seem super tedious for somebody just learning to solder due to the confines of these power plugs. For the power cables, I used RCA cables that I had laying around the house. What's nice about this is, if you have a 5 foot RCA cable that looks like Invalid Link Removed, you essentially have 15 feet of power cable. All you have to do is cut off the cable ends, then split and pull the three cables away from each other. I had some pretty hefty RCA cables so I was never concerned about overloading. You may be wondering how are 10 pedals being powered by only 8 power points off of the Pedal Power 2. What I've done is run parallel power off of the Pedal Power's jacks #2 and #5. To do this, you'll first need to know the power draw of each pedal to make sure your not overloading the specified output of the respective power jack. This will be measured in milliamps(mA). The Boss OC-2 and the WMD Super Fat Man are sharing power from the same power jack (jack #2). Jack #2 has a max current output of 100mA with the DIP switch in the "normal" position. The OC-2 has a current draw of 4 mA while the WMA Super Fat Man has a current draw of, if I remember correctly, 30-40 mA. This puts me well below the 100 mA output rating of jack #2 on the Pedal Power. Same practice applies to the Empress Compressor and the Polytune Mini, which are powered in parallel from the Pedal Power's #5 output jack, which has an output rating of 250 mA with the DIP switch in the "normal" position. The Empress Compressor has a published consumption of 100mA and the Polytune Mini has a published consumption of 40 mA, which again puts me well below the Pedal Power's jack #5 power output rating of 250 mA. If your unsure of a pedal's power consumption, a quick Google search for a specific pedal's manual will usually provide you with the information you need. Invalid Link Removed If these methods result in no luck, and in the case of the WMD Super Fat Man, a simple email or phone call to the manufacturer can easily get you the information you need.
 
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Nice one, very clean.


Have you tried the VT Bass v2? Turning the speaking sim off made a world of difference for me. Plus it's the same size and layout as the one you have now (and you can always push the speaker sim button again to get the "old" sound back.
 
That took a lot of planning and tedious fitting I'm sure. Looks clean and easy to use - I like the risen pedals that look like they each have their own pedistal. If you ever have a failure it is very likely to be inside a box rather than on the way to one!

I've given up on a permanent pedalboard, so I do what I can with Velcro for cables. I think I will use your idea next time tho and see where it gets me.
 
dave- thanks so much for taking the time to answer my questions....

but that leads to more questions!

1. Is the interface required or how do you I know if I need one? If I do, are there non-custom solutions and by who?
2. What is the power connector that sits just above the interface?
3. The RCA cable thing is nice!- Were 5' long cables long enough? and why do I only see black cables but
your example shows typical multi-colored RCA jacks...?
 
dave- thanks so much for taking the time to answer my questions....

but that leads to more questions!

1. Is the interface required or how do you I know if I need one? If I do, are there non-custom solutions and by who?
2. What is the power connector that sits just above the interface?
3. The RCA cable thing is nice!- Were 5' long cables long enough? and why do I only see black cables but
your example shows typical multi-colored RCA jacks...?

1. I don't think anybody needs an interface. If I was buying something non-custom it would be THIS.

2. The power connectors are Invalid Link Removed.

5. The multicolored RCA connectors are cut off and thrown away, which leaves you with 3 black cables that are 5 feet long each. Starting with 5 foot lengths was long enough. The longest power run was under 30 inches.