New Build-Finally!!

[bassman314]

A quick question; I'm using individual bridges because its a multi-scale. How do you ground the bridge(s) with individual bridges?

Well.. you could use either a brass nut or a metal string retainer and then ground one of the bridges. The brass nut or string retainer should then connect all of the bridges/strings, electrically.

Another option is to mount a copper strip under the bridges. You could even use the bolts for the bridges to mount it.

 

[Cy_Miles]

I forget if you said you already had your pickups or not, probably do.

But if you have not selected pickups, the EMG J set are internally grounded, and you DO NOT ground to the bridge.

 

[Ol'Bass'ead]

I figured that because I'm using a zero fret, that I would only have to ground one of them. The pickups are Bartoline 59J's, so they are hum-bucking already-just dont want to fry myself on a mic.......

 

[Cy_Miles]

just dont want to fry myself on a mic.......

That is one of those things that can ruin a whole day.

...what I thought was ironic about the EMG active pups, EMG expressly warns against grounding their pickups, as it actually increases the chances of electrecution!

I am interested in your issue though, as I want to build a bass with single string bridges one day, and I love passive humbucker tone, so I may be confronting the same quesion.

Grounding to the zero fret is interesting. a wire along side the truss rod I suppose?

 

[roberthabraken]

Grounding to the zero fret is interesting. a wire along side the truss rod I suppose?

I guess he means grounding one of the bridges while the zero fret connects the strings, having them all grounded...

 

[Cy_Miles]

I guess he means grounding one of the bridges while the zero fret connects the strings, having them all grounded...

oh! ...der

but what if you want to use tapewound strings?

 

[roberthabraken]

oh! ...der

but what if you want to use tapewound strings?

than grounding the strings wouldn't make sense anyway

 

[bassman314]

oh! ...der

but what if you want to use tapewound strings?

Then you'll need to use a plate of some kind underneath the bridges to link them. The strings would still be ground by the bridges, as the ball end is wrapped by the inner winding, not the nylon tape.

I do want to make it clear. I don't know why the strings need to be grounded, other than it is done on every bass I have ever owned (6). If it's not needed on this particular build, then it is not needed.

 

[roberthabraken]

Then you'll need to use a plate of some kind underneath the bridges to link them. The strings would still be ground by the bridges, as the ball end is wrapped by the inner winding, not the nylon tape.

smart one, didn't think of that.. but then again: you're fingers won't touch the inner winding so, would grounding then make any sense?

 

[bassman314]

smart one, didn't think of that.. but then again: you're fingers won't touch the inner winding so, would grounding then make any sense?

Read my edit

I honestly, don't know why strings are grounded. I actually ran into this once where my strings on my Lakland WERE grounded (and still are), but the PA (small PA Amp) was NOT grounded. when I touched the mic, I could feel the current in my hands when I'd touch the strings, as I was suddenly grounded the wholke PA system through my bass. Every now and again, I'd start singing into the mic, and get a nice ZAP when my lips would get too close to the grill.

A jumper cable on the heat sink on the back of PA Amp to a piece of metal that was part of the building fixed that issue until we got home, and I was able to repalce the power plug with a grounded type.

 

[roberthabraken]

Read my edit

I honestly, don't know why strings are grounded. I actually ran into this once where my strings on my Lakland WERE grounded (and still are), but the PA (small PA Amp) was NOT grounded. when I touched the mic, I could feel the current in my hands when I'd touch the strings, as I was suddenly grounded the wholke PA system through my bass. Every now and again, I'd start singing into the mic, and get a nice ZAP when my lips would get too close to the grill.

A jumper cable on the heat sink on the back of PA Amp to a piece of metal that was part of the building fixed that issue until we got home, and I was able to repalce the power plug with a grounded type.

Well, yes, that is my theory too. You wouldn't need grounding if you shield all electronics properly. And the advantage of *no* ground on the bridge is that you are not connected to the electronics and therefore couldn't get shocked! So I honestly don't understand why you should ground to not get fried .

 

[Ol'Bass'ead]

OK. Took a deep breath and cut out the neck profile yesterday.......

OK, that last one I must a moved a bit..........

 

[electracoyote]

Man, this is too cool. It's like watching God make Adam...okay, maybe that was a little more miraculous, but you get the idea.

 

[irishryno]

the body lines are amazing.

 

[Ol'Bass'ead]

Man, this is too cool. It's like watching God make Adam...okay, maybe that was a little more miraculous, but you get the idea.

It is miraculous-but not on that scale!!

 

[Ol'Bass'ead]

the body lines are amazing.

Thank you very much!

 

[Ol'Bass'ead]

Today, after I got off of work, I ran up to the shop and started to prepare the fingerboard to be permanently attached to the neck. And I learned that you should always wear gloves when using the belt sander-no alternating fingerstyle for me for a few days!!!!! So, I emptied a box of bandaids, took a deep breath, and slowed down a bit. Sanded down the bottom of the FB making sure it was flat. Then I very carefully aligned the 'board up the the parting lines on the body and the headstock, took a note of where they should be. Determined where my nut should be, made pencil marks, and started throwing glue everywhere. I nailed down both ends of the FB, double checked the alignment-twice-and put the rest of the clamps on. Somewhere in there it moved slightly, not enough to make a big difference, but it made me mad anyway. So, heres the pics......

Once it dried enough, I scraped all the glue off and scraped the two woods to the same height, cleaned it all up and......

Next, I guess is to start shaping the neck. I wonder if I can misuse a power tool somehow................

 

[Thumbthing]

Wow, you've done some killer work on this thing. I'm lovin' the pics! You know what frets you'll use? I'd go with stainless, but they are a bit more work to level and dress...totally worth it tho.

 

[Ol'Bass'ead]

No build update this weekend, as the family and I are up in Idaho visiting friends for the fourth. But I just wanted to say that I hoped your fourth was spectacular, and that you all have a great week!

Thumby, I would like to go with stainless, but havent finalized size and shape yet. When I do, it will depend on availability-oh, and thanks for the kind words.

 

[Ol'Bass'ead]

Well, I'm back home now, and the work has resumed! Got out the rasp today and started hacking the neck. After about three hours and a few passes with the scraper, this is the result. It still needs to be finessed, but its looking like a neck.