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New Ibanez Mode series

I have a brand-new Ibanez Mode MDM1605 5-string I'm selling over in the Classifieds if anyone is interested. Selling for $1100 plus label.

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Scuba, you have recently spent some time with both the Sadowsky M/J bass and this new Ibanez. I know you do not favor the 18mm bridge spacing on either instrument; but, might you please lend some comparative commentary on the tonal aspects of those two instruments? Would be much appreciated.
Amusing that for the same money required to purchase either of the aforementioned "new offshores," one could easily find something used of much better value in our own classifieds.

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Amusing that for the same money required to purchase either of the aforementioned "new offshores," one could easily find something used of much better value in our own classifieds.

Touch link
Except, one issue is that the vast majority of alternatives in the FSO world are built with 19mm bridge spacing, and neck tapers to match. The availability of 18mm designs is rather limited. I personally don’t care much about bridge spacing one way or the other; but, the aircraft carrier fingerboards on 19mm 5’s are not my pref. YMMV.

For the moment, I’m just staying with my modified Fender Am Dlx 5’s; even those have other issues.
 
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Amusing that for the same money required to purchase either of the aforementioned "new offshores," one could easily find something used of much better value in our own classifieds.

Touch link
Good point. A good quality 6 string with 18mm or wider spacing is harder to find used under 2k. I have looked many times. 16.5 to 17mm is most common string spacing on a 6 string under 2k.
The low B on the Mode basses is superior to many of the basses in that price range and is 34 inch scale. Sounds better than many 35 inch scale low B strings I have heard from popular brands. For the price, it's a great instrument and holds its own against the many wonderful basses on the market.
 
Both of mine are perfect, in regards to the truss rod issue that you’re talking about. I’ve got the 1305 and the 1606 and have had no issues with that.
I measure relief as such: Capo right behind first fret, fret the 17th, measure with a music nomad truss rod gauge (.008 or .20mm). I shoot for the gauge to just barely touch the string.
Both of mine came from Sweetwater, so if possible, you might try that route and have them set it up for you.
I’m messing with my truss rod and I get capo on 1st fret and fretted at 1st fret… where do you do the measuring?
 
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I mistyped… i’m used to seeing instructions saying put your finger on the last fret and measure on the 7th or 8th. Dan Lakin has a YouTube video instructing fretting at the 12th and measuring at the 6th. Then there is Ernie Ball that has people put the capo on the 2nd, fret the last, and measure at 8th.
So I am wondering, in your method of capo on 1, holding down at 17, where do you measure?
 
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I mistyped… i’m used to seeing instructions saying put your finger on the last fret and measure on the 7th or 8th. Dan Lakin has a YouTube video instructing fretting at the 12th and measuring at the 6th. Then there is Ernie Ball that has people put the capo on the 2nd, fret the last, and measure at 8th.
So I am wondering, in your method of capo on 1, holding down at 17, where do you measure?
Capo just behind the first fret
Press down on fret 17 (on the lowest string)
Measure at fret 8
This method has worked flawlessly on all my Ibanez basses, my fenders, John Myung signature EBMM bongo, and my brother in laws Dingwall bass.
 
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Capo just behind the first fret
Press down on fret 17 (on the lowest string)
Measure at fret 8
This method has worked flawlessly on all my Ibanez basses, my fenders, John Myung signature EBMM bongo, and my brother in laws Dingwall bass.
I've seen fret at 1 and last fret (24 on an Ibanez SR) and then measure at 12 on E string. I think the point is to take the nut out of the equation and then split the distance, right? You check the height of the nut separately, different procedure.
 
I've seen fret at 1 and last fret (24 on an Ibanez SR) and then measure at 12 on E string. I think the point is to take the nut out of the equation and then split the distance, right? You check the height of the nut separately, different procedure.
I’ve used the Ibanez procedure, as stated in their manuals (basically the procedure I listed above), for the last 20 years across multiple brands, and VS those brands procedures, and have always come up with the perfect setup for my tastes. I like a low action without excessive buzz, but with some buzz or “sizzle”.
 
Why am I not seeing many people talk about the 1305? I wonder if it's just not a preferred model?
I have the 4 string version, the 1350B. It's a Premium model, very nice. People seem to go for the later models, ones with spalted tops, more glitz. As far as playability goes, it is outstanding, with a very stable strong neck. I am not crazy about the preamp but perhaps that's just me. I play mine passive with black tapes and it sounds great that way.
 

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@BassicJazzy that is a gorgeous bass, though I didn’t specify that I’m talking about the MDM1305

I’m seeing no love for that on the Internet right now… Maybe it’s because it was just released in late January and people are, just like you’re saying going for the glitzy spalted top model… the MDM1605. I don’t know if this is true with the SR models, but in the Mode models it’s a whole different main body wood.
 
@BassicJazzy that is a gorgeous bass, though I didn’t specify that I’m talking about the MDM1305

I’m seeing no love for that on the Internet right now… Maybe it’s because it was just released in late January and people are, just like you’re saying going for the glitzy spalted top model… the MDM1605. I don’t know if this is true with the SR models, but in the Mode models it’s a whole different main body wood.
Oh, I see that now, sorry. Yeah, I looked up those two models. My guess is that people are more interested in the Rosewood board than the roasted maple board, plus the glitzy top wood. I don't know what the price diff is but if I was looking at a Mode I'd want the Rosewood, for better tone and aesthetics.
 
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Why am I not seeing many people talk about the 1305? I wonder if it's just not a preferred model?
The 1305 is just a good as the 1600 series mode basses. Both my 1305 and 1606MDM basses weigh 9.2lbs and basically sound the same. The 1606 is a little more resonant in the body and neck (because the 6 string models have graphite rods in the neck). Both sound and feel great to play.
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I've seen fret at 1 and last fret (24 on an Ibanez SR) and then measure at 12 on E string. I think the point is to take the nut out of the equation and then split the distance, right? You check the height of the nut separately, different procedure.
I've been using Fender's setup guide for about 20 years, which has always worked. To set neck relief, it says to fret at the first and last frets, and measure at the eighth using the lowest string. Then, for adjusting action via saddle height, it says to measure at the 17th fret (without fretting at the first). Both neck relief and action vary with fretboard radius, with slightly lower action specified for flatter fretboards.

With basses that have Plek-leveled frets, I can usually get the action slightly lower than this guide specifies, but it's a great starting point.

 
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The 1305 is just a good as the 1600 series mode basses. Both my 1305 and 1606MDM basses weigh 9.2lbs and basically sound the same. The 1606 is a little more resonant in the body and neck (because the 6 string models have graphite rods in the neck). Both sound and feel great to play. View attachment 7494700View attachment 7494701

The 1305 is just a good as the 1600 series mode basses. Both my 1305 and 1606MDM basses weigh 9.2lbs and basically sound the same. The 1606 is a little more resonant in the body and neck (because the 6 string models have graphite rods in the neck). Both sound and feel great to play. View attachment 7494700View attachment 7494701

Thanks for posting all of this @Bassplayer1586. my main concern was that the 1305 wouldn't have the B string response I was looking for. I found a lightly used 1605 on Reverb in Empire Music's store. It was a couple hundred bucks less than even my 1305 cost, and empire music makes a big deal about their pre-sale service... so I got it and am just going to return the 1305 unopened, I don't want to give myself an opportunity to question the new decision 😜

I was curious, is the popular burl an actual"top" or a thin veneer-ish ? It's hard to tell from advertisement photos...?
 
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Thanks for posting all of this @Bassplayer1586. my main concern was that the 1305 wouldn't have the B string response I was looking for. I found a lightly used 1605 on Reverb in Empire Music's store. It was a couple hundred bucks less than even my 1305 cost, and empire music makes a big deal about their pre-sale service... so I got it and am just going to return the 1305 unopened, I don't want to give myself an opportunity to question the new decision 😜

I was curious, is the popular burl an actual"top" or a thin veneer-ish ? It's hard to tell from advertisement photos...?
Based on what I've seen on other Ibanezes with poplar burl tops, I expect it's a thickish cap.
 
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Thanks for posting all of this @Bassplayer1586. my main concern was that the 1305 wouldn't have the B string response I was looking for. I found a lightly used 1605 on Reverb in Empire Music's store. It was a couple hundred bucks less than even my 1305 cost, and empire music makes a big deal about their pre-sale service... so I got it and am just going to return the 1305 unopened, I don't want to give myself an opportunity to question the new decision 😜

I was curious, is the popular burl an actual"top" or a thin veneer-ish ? It's hard to tell from advertisement photos...?
The top is a cap that’s about 5mm thick or so. They are very nice.
 
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