Nice job on the cover, wanna do the battery box next? Lovely bass by the way.
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I am considering doing the wood battery box cover with magnets to hold it in place.Nice job on the cover, wanna do the battery box next? Lovely bass by the way.
I made an Alder battery and control cover on the last 6 string I built and used magnets. So I had that idea in mind.Nice job on the cover, wanna do the battery box next? Lovely bass by the way.
Both of mine are perfect, in regards to the truss rod issue that you’re talking about. I’ve got the 1305 and the 1606 and have had no issues with that.For those who own one of the Mode/MDM series I'd like to know if the issue of maxed out truss rods is prevalent. I have owned two of these now and returned both of them due to maxing the truss rod but there still being neck relief. Seems it is impossible to get the necks flat. One of mine was the all ash body with no top and maple fingerboard and the other was alder body with burled top and rosewood fingerboard. So at least in my experience the truss rod issue isn't localized to one particular wood combo.
I'm curious how prevalent of an issue this is.
Are you completely sure the rod was maxed? The wheel style truss rod adjustment can be very deceiving, even on much higher priced basses.My first one came from Sweetwater. The truss rod arrived maxed and there was too much relief in the neck.
Roger Sadowsky says the same thing about his wheel truss rods, says you can really crank on them, you aren't going to break the rod. Unfortunately the tool he supplies for the adjustment is pretty soft, so it can feel like you have a stuck rod when you still have plenty of room left in it.Are you completely sure the rod was maxed? The wheel style truss rod adjustment can be very deceiving, even on much higher priced basses.
For example, my John Myung signature bongo bass arrived straight from EBMM with the rod barely tightened (the amount of relief it had was absolutely insane out of the box), so I adjusted it until it got tight, but it needed more. I called EBMM and they told me to crank on it over the phone, and sure enough, it still had plenty of adjustment left. To this day, it’s pretty hard to adjust in either direction, but once you free it, it works great.
Perhaps this was the case with both of yours, perhaps not? The mode series are awesome basses, BUT, with anything that’s mass produced, lemons will get through every now and then. I wouldn’t give up on them though!
Intresting. How hard did you crank? For both I had I felt like I was going to just snap the rod with how hard I was already cranking on it and neither would budge.
I have never seen strings like that before. What are those? They look like twine!After much consideration, I'm giving this one a go! Nice wood grain, 8lb 14oz, so not too heavy, not too light!
My main player is a Fender Custom Shop Jazz Bass, passive, with Lollars and a rosewood board, so this should brighten things
up a bit when I get my faux Marcus slap diddly funk going!
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Don’t know if this might or might not help, but…Intresting. How hard did you crank? For both I had I felt like I was going to just snap the rod with how hard I was already cranking on it and neither would budge.
Scuba, you have recently spent some time with both the Sadowsky M/J bass and this new Ibanez. I know you do not favor the 18mm bridge spacing on either instrument; but, might you please lend some comparative commentary on the tonal aspects of those two instruments? Would be much appreciated.That's a good way to put it. I resonate with the "I felt no connection, soul or mojo that made me want to pick it up."
I think these are good basses. Just not excitable (for me).