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New shortscale player, wondering about unfocused E string

I just picked up a used CIJ Fender mustang. Overall I'm pretty impressed with the sound and pickups (much to my surprise, they are higher output and fuller range than my P bass with an EMG GZR pup). I'm just finding that it's difficult getting a focused and clear sound on the E string, especially above the 5th fret. I did make sure to lower the pickups to Fender specs, so I don't think it's that magnetic interference issue.

Could it be an issue with the individual E string? I had a fretless 34 scale with a similar issue and found that it was a problem with the specific string. Right now there are flats on the bass with a blue winding. Chromes maybe? I'd been looking at La Bella mustang flats, but at 50 dollars per set, I'm looking for advice before making a change.
I find that my right hand technique needs adjustment when switching from 34 to 30. Digging a little less deep helps mitigate the flub. Also a little bit of foam mute spanning under the e, a and d at the bridge can clean things up. Also a highpassfilter.
 
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After going through a lot of flats on my CIJ Mustang, I now use GHS Pressurewounds. They have more definition than a flat but not a roundwound sound, especially when broken in.

Yes, for those at least, I had to go to long scale strings since the short scale Pressurewounds were about a quarter inch too short and they don't make a medium scale set.
 
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After going through a lot of flats on my CIJ Mustang, I now use GHS Pressurewounds. They have more definition than a flat but not a roundwound sound, especially when broken in.

Yes, for those at least, I had to go to long scale strings since the short scale Pressurewounds were about a quarter inch too short and they don't make a medium scale set.


so there's no problem using long scale strings on a short scale?
 
If you don't want an unfocused E-string you should definitely not get LaBella flats! I can't think of a LESS focused E-string on a short scale.
Interesting--exactly the polar opposite of my experience! I went from Chromes on a couple shorties, which after they were on for a while just became totally lifeless duds, to Labellas and they are very focused in a mix all over the whole instrument, and just keep sounding better with age. Not a Mustang mind you, but on a Jerry Jones and a Bronco.
 
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Pressurewounds are round wounds that have been squished to be smooth on the outside. The full thickness string can be wound on a large tuner OK. Not ideal, but I've not had any problems. Flats are a different story. Bending them that tightly can break the windings.
I have a Fender Jazz V with the 5-in-line Gotoh tuners, and the B peg is very close to the nut. I have broken at least 5 B strings wrapping the girth around the peg. I finally had a grommet installed just for that string to take up the extra on the backside.
 
Pressurewounds are round wounds that have been squished to be smooth on the outside. The full thickness string can be wound on a large tuner OK. Not ideal, but I've not had any problems. Flats are a different story. Bending them that tightly can break the windings.

Not really true. I have been installing flats on my Hybrid Bass+Guitar. by Hybrid-Guitar ( made by Wes Lambe and Clay Conner with Charlie Hunter ) These tuners are the quarter inch used for guitar and I have successfully used 105 D'Addario tapes (in the picture), GHS Precisions Short Scale Flats which only come in lights and also regular 105 roundwounds and they just told me, they are using La Bella Flats which I will be trying as well. Small tuners and this only has a thru body string option, everything TB says to avoid. On top of that, I am tuning the bass to G UP a minor 3rd. The E(G) is 29.5 scale. Notice I only have a side hole not a center hole like bass. I can get the silks of a 105 in just fine. The GHS -- I am actually bending almost one round on the metal for the E -- I have to if I am tuning the E to G. So far so good.

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I know this is the opposite of some people's suggestions and requires some luck that the bridge saddles can be adjusted for correct intonation, but I find a lighter gauge E string (and lighter gauge strings in general, regardless of scale length) give more overtones and sound better, particularly on the lowest strings (pitch-wise), and particularly on shorter scale instruments.
 
I've been playing short scale basses (as well as long scale basses) for decades.
The problem with the E -string on a shortie not being focussed enough is due to the lack of string tension.
And to solve that I string all my shorties with a heavier gauge string set. 50-115 (GHS Heavy Bass Boomers). These are regular long scale strings, so stringing the E-string around the tuner post requires some attention. But it can be done, no problem.
 
Pressurewounds are round wounds that have been squished to be smooth on the outside. The full thickness string can be wound on a large tuner OK. Not ideal, but I've not had any problems. Flats are a different story. Bending them that tightly can break the windings.
Chromes can be wrapped around the post without issues. I have had the full thickness wrapped around the E post on my Mini P for over 3 years.

Labellas may very well break.
 
I have the same observation about the unfocused E string. As mentioned, it’s a characteristic of short scale basses. I have a JMJ Mustang. I’ve tried Labella’s and Chromes but was unsatisfied until I when to light gauge (95) roundwound Daddario XLs and finally settled on Daddario pro Steele 95s. That’s the EPS220 set. Although it’s a long scale set, no issues cutting and fitting the set to fit the JMJ, and in my opinion, is the tightest tone across the board. You would think these light gauge strings would have less low end but in fact it tames the E string quite remarkably and removes the boominess. Anyway that’s my experience to solve that issue.
 
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Check the break angle past the nut. If the string is loosely sitting in the nut slot without much downward tension, then it could sound a little less resonant or focused. This can be fixed with more wraps around the tuning machine post very easily.

It might also be worth it to try another set of new strings.

My short scale low E is more bloomy than my Precision basses which are more boingy or bingy on the open low E.
My E string tends to be more blonky and blunky...Thoughts?
 
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+1000 for LaBella DTFs
Otherwise, it's never going to sound quite like a long scale. You may need to adjust your playing technique. Not bad, just different. And as already noted, you need to hear it in a mix to really judge. Good luck!
 
I've been playing short scale basses (as well as long scale basses) for decades.
The problem with the E -string on a shortie not being focussed enough is due to the lack of string tension.
And to solve that I string all my shorties with a heavier gauge string set. 50-115 (GHS Heavy Bass Boomers). These are regular long scale strings, so stringing the E-string around the tuner post requires some attention. But it can be done, no problem.

I play mostly in drop D. For my shorties I had to go with at least 105 on the E for it to sound anywhere decent. I have DDT 110 on mine now and it's performing well.
 
I only have two short scale basses, one with the latest iteration of the RS88 tapewounds (if I remember correctly, working fine-even the E) and related to this thread, a super affordable Sonic Bronco from last year's production-I am not pretending there aren't any "problems" to circumvent on the long vs short scale matter, but my Sonic story goes as follows:

The stock strings were rather fine! I changed them to short scale Rotosound 66s, but the E had lots of problems, as if it was bad. "Chorusy" and near impossible to intonate. These issues, I feel, shouldn't be blamed at either the budget of my humble bass, or its scale-changed to "normal" tension DR Hi-Beams for shorties, and an articulate, no issues E string happened. So I am convinced that while the low string set gauge may have been recorded to a great extent over many classic records-it has its appeal-one must not need to live and love such conditions on one's own bass nowadays. There are enough-though definitely not plenty of-options so your shortie scale bass can be articulate and clear on the E string and higher registers, even if it won't be as tight as with some long scale instruments. No need to feel as if it's merely par for the course-improvements can definitely be achieved.

Now, this is not a shot on Rotosound, which I love on my long scale basses! But somehow the production quality of the short scale version of the Swing Bass appears to not be up to par (or perhaps likely, a 90 E is not an ideal gauge for many short scale basses.)

Love the Hi Beams on that Sonic, though would love to try a 110 set of another brand at some point-there aren't as many options as I would like.

If you love a darker and duller E, that is fine! But it needs not be the norm.

(On my bad Rotos, the A was also a bit strange, though not as bad as the E-the D and G were rather fine. The production was the modern one, so it wasn't NOS. Truly believe they manufacture the short scale at a lower standard-or that was the *impression* I had, given my experience. Similarly, on the other bass, the short scale 77 flatwounds were not a success either, though that was years ago.)
 
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