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Double Bass New to Double Bass changed to Gut strings....

Hi Folks

I've been playing electric bass for 10 years and just recently picked up a Sam Shen 1/2 size double bass. It came with steel strings but I wanted to try gut strings. I ordered a set of Superior Bassworks Standard Dirty Gut strings. I installed them starting with the G and worked my way up to the E. Not being used to gut strings I missed the lower octave on the A and E and kept winding (worriedly) until I hit a higher E and A but by now I knew I had overtightened the strings. I backed them off but I wonder if they are stretched beyond usefulness. They seem very slack ( especially the E) It's playable but I wonder if I should replace them. Is there a way to judge which octave to tune to other than the tension in the string. Sorry for the newbie questions any help appreciated.
 
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These strings specifically say they will fit 1/2 sized bass.
 
Hi Folks

I've been playing electric bass for 10 years and just recently picked up a Sam Shen 1/2 size double bass. It came with steel strings but I wanted to try gut strings. I ordered a set of Superior Bassworks Standard Dirty Gut strings. I installed them starting with the G and worked my way up to the E. Not being used to gut strings I missed the lower octave on the A and E and kept winding (worriedly) until I hit a higher E and A but by now I knew I had overtightened the strings. I backed them off but I wonder if they are stretched beyond usefulness. They seem very slack ( especially the E) It's playable but I wonder if I should replace them. Is there a way to judge which octave to tune to other than the tension in the string. Sorry for the newbie questions any help appreciated.

Congrats on the Shen 1/2!

Your Superior BassWorks (SBW) string problem is sort of unusual and I've never encountered someone having tuned up to octave E and A like that before. That's actually pretty amazing. I would guess that the strings might recover, but with a 1/2 size DB I can imagine the strings are always going to be looser than normal, so it may be hard to tell if the strings have recovered or not...

The only thing I can suggest is try the thickest 4 of all 6 of the strings in the "bump" pack (.170" E, .155" A, .130" D and.105" G) to try to get higher tension and usable strings at concert pitch. While new SBW strings (that haven't been over-stretched) are advertised to fit your 1/2 DB properly, they may not play or sound well at concert pitch on a 1/2 DB.

If these strings don't work out well enough for you, you may need to get different strings, strings that are made for a 1/2 size DB. There are other synthetic strings (and other metal strings) that are available for 1/2 DBs; they'll generally be 3 to 4 times more expensive than SBW strings. Also be aware, there are other metal strings available that may be easier on your hands than the metal strings that you removed from your 1/2 DB.

Also, to be clear, SBW "Standard" Dirty Guts are not real gut strings, they're basically Kevlar core gator-line (like weed wacker) strings. The "Deluxe" Dirty Guts strings are also not real gut, also made of the same gator-line, but they are spiral cut for the length of the strings which makes them feel and look more like real gut, they feel less sticky in high humidity situations, they noticeably move more air and they work very nicely with a bow. As has been mentioned, if you do decide to go with real gut, they're going to be much more expensive than SBW strings, and probably even more so for a 1/2 size DB.

Btw, be aware that SBW strings are unusual in that they stretch a lot more than real gut or synthetic or metal strings before breaking. Had you done the same with these other strings, they probably would have snapped before you were 2 steps sharp.

Even on a 3/4 DB, if you're playing acoustic (no amp), you may find that the SBW E and A strings of any of the bump pack's gauges just are not loud and clear enough. Many of us have found that to be the case with SBW E and A strings on our DBs. They are fine with an amp or over a PA, but the E and A strings just don't cut through while playing acoustically with other instruments. I've heard the same problem discussed with some real gut E and A strings, so this is really nothing new.

Just as an example of something that does work, I use SBW Deluxe Dirty Guts for my D (.105"} and G {.095") strings and Innovation Silver Slaps E and A strings on my 3/4 DB. This mixed set produces good volume and clarity on all strings and they cut through in an acoustic instrument group very nicely. They do also sound fine when amped or with a PA.

Lastly, if you do decide on new strings, I'd suggest a visit to Gollihur Music's string section to look around at everything that is available; a huge amount of free learning is available there.

Best of luck with all this!
 
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Thanks for that thoughtful and thorough reply...I do have the 2 larger diameter strings left over, however they will require me to take a file to the nut and bridge....I do plan to play amplified so I think I'll leave things as is for the moment. It seems I should be aiming for 41 Hz for the E string.
 
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But wait, there's more :D ...

So, these are some things to be aware of when going from relatively thin metal strings to relatively thick real-gut or synthetic strings on a double bass...

It is normal for grooves in the nut and in the bridge to have to be widened. Having the grooves too narrow can cause strings to break and/or be hard to tune.

It is preferred to not deepen these grooves by more than necessary to keep thicker strings from slipping out of the grooves while playing, unless for the nut, action at the nut needs to be lowered anyway. Grooves on the bridge should be only deep enough to hold the strings in place while playing -- if the bridge has adjusters, they are the best way to adjust the action. If the bridge doesn't have adjusters, action adjustment and/or installation of adjusters should be done by a double bass specialist.

The angle of the string leaving the nut and leaving the bridge is also pretty critical. With all string types, but especially with real-gut or with synthetic strings, there should be no sharp edges in either the nut or the bridge that might damage the strings.

Usually string action will need to be higher for thicker strings. Action is usually a measurement of the distance of the string from the end of the fingerboard; thin metal strings tend to be in the 5mm to 9mm range, while thick real-gut or synthetic strings tend to be in the 8mm to 11mm range (from the G string to the E string). These measurements vary widely from person to person depending on their playing style, preferred genre and comfort level.

The built in "relief" in the fingerboard may need to be deeper for many if not most of the thicker strings in order to prevent buzzing. "Relief" is a complex gradual bow that is worked into the length of the fingerboard, coordinated with the normal radius of the fingerboard, with consideration for the tension placed on the neck by the strings.

During string changes and changes to the setup of the nut, bridge and fingerboard, many people prefer that the work be done while 3 out of 4 of the strings are still on the DB and are at normal pitch tension to help avoid having the sound post fall. In other words, all of this work would be done 1 string at a time. Some people also prefer to do string changes and other work with the DB on it's back AND with no pressure on the scroll/pegbox area, so in other words the level of the back of the DB would be situated higher than the scroll; this also helps prevent the sound post from falling. (Strings should never be left at normal tension if the sound post has fallen.)

It may also be helpful to have the sound post readjusted for optimal tone and volume for the new thicker strings.

Because of the complexity of all of these and more discrete setup adjustments, we usually recommend taking a DB to a double bass luthier or double bass setup specialist to have this work done. It is usually worth the cost and effort, as this kind of setup is critical for optimal playability and tone.

While it is there, a luthier or specialist may also recommend strings that would be best for your DB and for the kind of music that you want to play with it.
 
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Yeah so far it seems good I’m 5ft 4in anyway so I figure it’s going to be easier to gig with and it fits in my mini cooper
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OK so I'm feeling quite confident that I can work with this bass. This morning I was gently adjusting the position of the bridge and it "fell over". At first I was concerned because I had read that if the soundpost falls (held in position by the pressure on the bridge) it is a PITA to reposition. Fortunately the post stayed put, I loosened off the strings and was able to get the bridge standing up again. I also learned that each time we tune the top of the bridge gets pulled in the direction of the tuning pegs (hence the need for lubrication with pencil lead). This mornings episode has made me aware of how careful I will need to be when gigging with this beast.
 
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New DB strings of just about any kind need a lot of tuning during the first few weeks as they break in. So yes, watch your bridge. Strings do become much more stable, but they need regular attention, especially if temperatures and humidity are variable.

There are DB bridges that won't fall over, but they don't look very traditional, and they might not be available for 1/2 size DBs.

You may have read it in other threads here in TB/DB, but the double bass is really a completely different animal than the electric bass. Really the only thing in common is 4ths tuning. It's a very physically demanding instrument, although that may be slightly reduced with a 1/2 size DB. There are lots of threads here about learning to play DB without causing yourself injuries... And they are here for good reason. They are recommended reading for anyone starting out.

TB/DB is a pretty friendly forum area, many if not most of us watch excitedly when someone is starting out, and we hope for a long and safe DB relationship.
 

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