Nickel Plated - need more high end

[_Some Dude]

I like the sound of NPS when new, but I’m loosing the top end response too quickly. In the past that was fine (I actually preferred the sound of week old strings) but with my current band I’m loosing too much cut too quickly. Ernie Balls for instance are basically too dead after one rehearsal. I want something that’ll retain more presence with aggressive guitars.

I think what I’m looking for is steel strings, but I figured I’d ask around.

 

[MonetBass]

Everyone's body pH is different. Mine, for example, which is highly acidic, can kill a set of stainless steel strings in minutes. That's why I use nickel-wound strings. Perhaps yours is the opposite: you kill the nickel strings, so try the stainless steel. Good luck!

 

[Riff Ranger]

I usually use Slinkies myself, but tried Curt Mangan nickel rounds on a couple of instruments that I played more or less daily for a year and they still sounded pretty new. Small sample size, but it’s something.

 

[Grinderman]

I'm thinking Dunlop Super Bright sets at $20-ish per pop, changed more often or find other additional means to create the presence needed to cut trough.

 

[Riff Ranger]

I'm thinking Dunlop Super Bright sets at $20-ish per pop, changed more often or find other additional means to create the presence needed to cut trough.

I also have a set of these ready to go, but have yet to wear any strings out since acquiring them.

 

[Lee Moses]

I think what I’m looking for is steel strings.

I think so, too. Maybe Rotosounds or DR Fat Beams to start with, and go from there.

 

[Stan_da_man]

Fat Beams, Super Steels or Rock Bright Steels would be my recommendation.

 

[micguy]

Either steels or in betweeners are in your future. A couple in betweeners (not as bright as steels, but brighter than nickel plated):

Kalium hybrids (an alloy of steel and nickel, not plated)

GHS progressives - mostly out of production, you might find some somewhere - similar to Kaliums, they're a nickel alloy, but not stainless. If we're lucky, one day they'll run their 2.0 version.

 

[michael_t]

I think what I’m looking for is steel strings, but I figured I’d ask around.

I'm mostly a nickel guy myself, but if I needed something brighter with a little more top end, DR stainless steel Lo-Riders would be my top choice. Not overly zingy but they do have a clear, crisp top end that seems to last. They're also smoother in texture than most SS rounds I've tried.

 

[GIBrat51]

While I'm tempted to tell you "Rotosound 'British Steel' stainless guitar strings" (the ones that ate the frets off my '87 Rick 330 guitar, and were the brightest strings I've ever heard on an electric anything), I won't. What I will tell you, though, is - Roto 66 Stainless strings. Available in gauges from the 30-90 FM66 Funkmasters, to the 50-110 Swingbass RS66LEs. Even when well broken in, I found the ones that came on my '78 Fender P-Bass annoyingly bright - but I play flats almost exclusively, so... Being stainless, they may keep the new, "bright & zingy" tone you want for a decently long time. But, as you know; no strings will keep that tone for very long. Fact is? They were never supposed to; how they sound when they lose that zingy brightness is really how they're supposed to sound - they're broken in... In any case? I'd say; stainless rounds - in as light a gauge as you can stand. Although... GHS's steel banjo strings are obnoxiously bright; don't ask me how I know...

 

[Killing Floor]

DR Hi Beams or Dunlop Super Bright

 

[Thumpin6string]

Are you sure it is the strings and not a bass or amp setting issue? No matter what brand string I use, I have to tame the highs with an LPF and/or cut the treble.

 

[BigDrew]

Go stainless steel. Or you can try NYXLs or Cobalts. Both are brighter and last longer than their less expensive siblings.

 

[_Some Dude]

Dunlop lists a nickel super bright and stainless super bright with no details separating them.

Are the nickel versions just a NPS string?

To add to my confusion, they also have a nickel string that’s not a super bright, again with no real description.

 

[Phaidrus]

As @BigDrew mentioned above, D'Addario NYXL are brighter than the average NPS strings and last longer. I concur as I've had a few sets on a couple Pbasses. They are also quite comfortable to play and feel premium to the touch. Nice crunchy tone.

 

[michael_t]

Dunlop lists a nickel super bright and stainless super bright with no details separating them.

Are the nickel versions just a NPS string?

To add to my confusion, they also have a nickel string that’s not a super bright, again with no real description.

Super Brights come in two versions - Nickel-plated Steel and Stainless Steel. They use a hex-core wire of a small diameter for added flexibility.

The regular Dunlop NPS strings use a thicker core wire more like D'Addario XL Nickels and Erinie Ball Slinkys, so they're stiffer in feel than the Super Brights.

 

[micguy]

I think what I’m looking for is steel strings, but I figured I’d ask around.

A couple of things: If you like the sound of strings right out of the pack, you either need a string endorsement (aka free strings) and a roadie to change strings for you, or you need brighter strings or a brighter bass. All strings have an initial zing that goes away quickly. Most strings settle into a stable tone for quite a while after that. If you want long life from your strings, they need to bite a bit too much when new.

This is responsible for a lot of the differing opinions you read on strings - if someone likes the sound of a set of strings when they’re broken in, tgey’ll say they have a long life. If you like the sound right out of the pack, you’ll say they “go dead” fast.

 

[matante]

Which other nickel plated strings have you used besides the Slinkys? Alot of people, including myself, find the Slinkys die in a couple of days. That's not representative of nickel strings in general. D'Addario XLs take about three weeks to lose their zing for me.
Rotosound nickels also last a long time for me. You can get the "Rotobass" sets for a good price and they're the same strings as the swing bass nickels, just without the silk wrapping.

 

[Isaac_James]

Either steels or in betweeners are in your future. A couple in betweeners (not as bright as steels, but brighter than nickel plated):

Kalium hybrids (an alloy of steel and nickel, not plated)

GHS progressives - mostly out of production, you might find some somewhere - similar to Kaliums, they're a nickel alloy, but not stainless. If we're lucky, one day they'll run their 2.0 version.

Are the Kalium hybrids made of the same alloy GHS used for the Progressives? I know GHS used Alloy 52 for theirs, and they still use it on their pressurewounds (which I am a fan of, but probably not what OP is after as they're less zingy and bright than rounds). But I don't think it's commonly used.

It's a highly magnetically reactive alloy but I recall reading somewhere (I think from someone associated with GHS) that it's a little difficult to work with, which might have something to do with the delay in bringing Progressives 2.0 back to the market.

 

[micguy]

Are the Kalium hybrids made of the same alloy GHS used for the Progressives? I know GHS used Alloy 52 for theirs, and they still use it on their pressurewounds (which I am a fan of, but probably not what OP is after as they're less zingy and bright than rounds). But I don't think it's commonly used.

It's a highly magnetically reactive alloy but I recall reading somewhere (I think from someone associated with GHS) that it's a little difficult to work with, which might have something to do with the delay in bringing Progressives 2.0 back to the market.

Kalium doesn’t specifically call out which alloy they use, but it’s likely in the same family as alloy 52, if not identical. Having played both sets of strings, they have a lot in common