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Nitro-Cell Lacquer Finish Schedule/Tutorial
- Thread starter LedBelli Bass
- Start date
I prefer multiple thin coats, therefore, I do not use an HVLP gun. They apply too much product at a time for my liking.
I use what in the auto painting industry is called a "touch up" spray gun. The reservoir holds about 12 ounces of product, and it behaves like a traditional spray gun. It is quick and easy to clean after shooting. Perfect!
For sanding, I use Micro-Mesh. A fresh box every-other guitar.
For polishing, I have a Jet pedestal buffing machine where I use only one buff per side.
Medium/Fine Menzerna compound on one side, X-Fine on the other side.
SDB Guitars
Commercial User
Wow... I have the same micromesh sheets that I bought 6 years ago, and they're still working fine.
Interestingly enough, Micromesh now sells hook-and-loop wet/dry sanding discs. I've been doing a lot of my finish sanding with them. It comes out looking like polished glass.
great thread guys! looking for a little bit of advice.
i've finally found where i can get sprays etc in the UK, however I've just realised that I haven't read anything about colour finishes.
I'm refinishing a bass just now, she's cleaned up and sanded to bare wood - I'm ready to paint. Going for an olympic white nitro finish ala a '57 P-bass refin. Any advice?
Cheers!
this is very nice tutorial. personally I would skip step 4, I think 220 is way too rough for this type of work. Nitro comes off so easy 400 on a block is more than enough.
Thanks for the tutorial. I will be using this soon on a cheap OLP MM3 that I have sanded all the black paint off of. My current problem is that I think I sanded through the top piece and there are some areas where the wood is not as nice as other places.
As this is a cheap first time project, I may just stain the thing as is and hope that I get some kind of 'relic'ed look, but that's a bit hopeful. I was also thinking of putting a figured maple veneer on the top, but the body is quite contoured and I have a feeling that I wouldn't be able to get the edges looking good. Of course if that was the case I could always go with a sun burnt finish with black on the sides and back.
Your thoughts would be very much appreciated.
In this picture I had just wiped the guitar with a wet rag, so it's hard to see the actual problem spots, but they are on the bottom horn and around the all the edges. I will post another photo soon.
Thanks!
As this is a cheap first time project, I may just stain the thing as is and hope that I get some kind of 'relic'ed look, but that's a bit hopeful. I was also thinking of putting a figured maple veneer on the top, but the body is quite contoured and I have a feeling that I wouldn't be able to get the edges looking good. Of course if that was the case I could always go with a sun burnt finish with black on the sides and back.
Your thoughts would be very much appreciated.
In this picture I had just wiped the guitar with a wet rag, so it's hard to see the actual problem spots, but they are on the bottom horn and around the all the edges. I will post another photo soon.
Thanks!
Led,
What about poly? I've had decent results with PPG primer/color/clear out of a Preval can, tried Minwax can, huge cluster of problems (my whining thread and subsequent advice/help is currently posted), the folks sent me in your direction. That bass looks amazing, btw.
Ed
What about poly? I've had decent results with PPG primer/color/clear out of a Preval can, tried Minwax can, huge cluster of problems (my whining thread and subsequent advice/help is currently posted), the folks sent me in your direction. That bass looks amazing, btw.
Ed
Recently I did some laquer experiment too , the thing I did different was the pore filling , when using a sealer or the laquer itself it shrinked , but I dont mind it and its easy to fix with light sanding and few more coats and polishing and voila . I'd like to try some Italian lacquer we have at work but its as expensive than 2k clearcoat
