NUTZ

[DURP]

Asking for help as I have zero reference for true depth dimensions. Bought this p bass as a light project, umm ok, turned into a complete rebuild. I need help with the fatory nut channel dimension ? Had a garbage plastic pos wedged and glued in. Channel is deeply gouged from previous owner implanting, took me an hour to remove the super glue. Used a 3/32 wood turning gouge and light chemicals to clean the channel. I'm new to electric basses soooo any help is appreciated where and what best fits the Korean fender p bass originally, this is a 1993 silver edition, wanting to keep it as original as possible...any help is truly appreciated....

 

[Dirk Diggler]

First I think you really need to flatten out the bottom of that slot, perhaps a small chisel?
Sanding too will work. Even wrap a tool with sandpaper, like a sanding block.
If repairs take it too low, you can make up for that with the new nut.

The front edge line needs to be sharper too, it seems very wide from that oversized
one on there that makes things a bit more challenging.

I'm sure folks will chime in with actual factory specs, that I can't help with.
If you make and shape your own nut, you can adjust things to make up for previous repairs.

If you just want to duplicate the setup as it was, you can measure the bottom of each strings slot
on the old nut, take into account the depth of the nut slot. Of course you can also measure out
the spacing of the strings from the old nut.

Personally I just make my own, I don't really trust the premade ones, and certainly prefer to slot my own
as well.

Best of success on the project.

 

[DURP]

First I think you really need to flatten out the bottom of that slot, perhaps a small chisel?
Sanding too will work. Even wrap a tool with sandpaper, like a sanding block.
If repairs take it too low, you can make up for that with the new nut.

The front edge line needs to be sharper too, it seems very wide from that oversized
one on there that makes things a bit more challenging.

I'm sure folks will chime in with actual factory specs, that I can't help with.
If you make and shape your own nut, you can adjust things to make up for previous repairs.

If you just want to duplicate the setup as it was, you can measure the bottom of each strings slot
on the old nut, take into account the depth of the nut slot. Of course you can also measure out
the spacing of the strings from the old nut.

Personally I just make my own, I don't really trust the premade ones, and certainly prefer to slot my own
as well.

Best of success on the project.

I managed to find the specs, factory nutz seem to hover at 1/8th inch thick and 1.67 inches long. I also found a filler a Luthier uses from Sweetwater. I'm going to order a small amount to see how the color matches otherwise I'm gonna have to splice in a piece of rosewood into the nut channel, maybe both. I ordered a tusq black graphite nut blank as well as you stated you build your own, only way to learn is doing it. I have decades of woodworking behind my belt but like i said, my first electric bass, so it shouldn't be a big deal taking it slow..... I appreciate your input good sir

 

[DURP]

First I think you really need to flatten out the bottom of that slot, perhaps a small chisel?
Sanding too will work. Even wrap a tool with sandpaper, like a sanding block.
If repairs take it too low, you can make up for that with the new nut.

The front edge line needs to be sharper too, it seems very wide from that oversized
one on there that makes things a bit more challenging.

I'm sure folks will chime in with actual factory specs, that I can't help with.
If you make and shape your own nut, you can adjust things to make up for previous repairs.

If you just want to duplicate the setup as it was, you can measure the bottom of each strings slot
on the old nut, take into account the depth of the nut slot. Of course you can also measure out
the spacing of the strings from the old nut.

Personally I just make my own, I don't really trust the premade ones, and certainly prefer to slot my own
as well.

Best of success on the project.

I managed to find the specs, factory nutz seem to hover at 1/8th inch thick and 1.67 inches long. I also found a filler a Luthier uses from Sweetwater. I'm going to order a small amount to see how the color matches otherwise I'm gonna have to splice in a piece of rosewood into the nut channel, maybe both. I ordered a tusq black graphite nut blank as well as you stated you build your own, only way to learn is doing it. I have decades of woodworking so it shouldn't be a big deal taking it slow..... I appreciate your input good s

 

[Matt Liebenau]

On an inexpensive import like that, IOW minimal collector value, I might just remove the rest of the wood on the headstock side of the nut slot since the slot is oversize already then flatten it all out and install a Gibson style nut. You’d obviously have to make the nut from a blank if the material of your choice but it would make flattening the shelf much easier. Heck, you could use a rabbeting plane then if you have one.

 

[DURP]

On an inexpensive import like that, IOW minimal collector value, I might just remove the rest of the wood on the headstock side of the nut slot since the slot is oversize already then flatten it all out and install a Gibson style nut. You’d obviously have to make the nut from a blank if the material of your choice but it would make flattening the shelf much easier. Heck, you could use a rabbeting plane then if you have one.

I found that nut you speak of plus an adjustable german made, I've decided to change everything, all out build. The adjustable nut is the right dimension for this walowed slot as your suggestion will definitely work. Yes not very collectable in most opinions however this is a perfect project for my first electric bass build, it's still a fender. The adjustable nut will also help a bit with an outboard bend, I'm steaming the neck in an attempt to remedy that issue as well. I have been around music since I was 6 playing a double bass and cello I get how the general basics for electric but this build will teach me much and I won't be molesting a real collective piece... I appreciate your suggestions and will keep this updated as I move along with building....

 

[T_Bone_TL]

Steam may not be the best idea if the neck needs bent. Dry heat (and clamping to correct the bend) is the usual approach - not so prone to making it come unglued.

 

[Matt Liebenau]

Steam may not be the best idea if the neck needs bent. Dry heat (and clamping to correct the bend) is the usual approach - not so prone to making it come unglued.

I agree with T_Bone. Check out Dave’s Wold of Fun Stuff channel or twoodfrd on the YouTubes. They don’t really detail making it but they show a neck heat press they’ve built that seems to work.

 

[DURP]

I agree, I meant a cool steam ie;cold humidifier and keep it to a minimum and as you suggested a straight edge clamped onto the neck. I have sealed bags I used for othe types of woodworking, they are filled with a liquid ceramic material. Simply pop them into the microwave to heat them. I have been told to bring the temp to 200°f or cooler? Laying the heat on top allowing to slowly cool and settle for at least 2 days undisturbed?

 

[rudy4444]

If you do careful work you should be able to re-create the original nut to keep the authenticity of the bass intact. Adjustable nuts seem like a good idea, but ask yourself why they aren't seen very often.

Does the truss rod not work? Unless you need to do a heat press that's what it's designed for. If you research the process you'll find that heat pressed necks don't usually stay that way for long.

Don't be so quick to dismiss this as "non-collectable". The transition era bass guitars with the "Fender" logo and small "Squier Series" label aren't seen all that often.

 

[MVE]

It looks like you are going to need to graft on a little spacer of fingerboard material to get the new nut in the correct position. This will need to be measured very carefully or your instrument will never play in tune.

 

[Reedt2000]

That slot has been widened. You must make sure your witness point on the nut is 17" from the 12th fret so scale is correct. I'd measure to make sure the edge of your slot is at 17", and if its not glue in a strip of rosewood to get it there. Then see if you can get a pre-slotted nut you can make fit, or buy a blank (brass, plastic, bone, Corian) and make one from scratch.

 

[tpaul]

I can't help you with your nut problem, but FYI, it's not a "silver series" unless it actually says "silver series" on the headstock, like this:

What you have there looks like a Fender Squier Series, also cool, but different.

 

[Water buffalo]

That nut seems excessively wide, most Fender nuts are 1/8". No worries, except if material was removed between the nut and 1st fret.

I'm with @Reedt2000, I would measure from the twelth fret to the nut line to make sure that wood hasn't been removed. Then go back with a stock style (1/8") nut.

 

[DURP]

If you do careful work you should be able to re-create the original nut to keep the authenticity of the bass intact. Adjustable nuts seem like a good idea, but ask yourself why they aren't seen very often.

Does the truss rod not work? Unless you need to do a heat press that's what it's designed for. If you research the process you'll find that heat pressed necks don't usually stay that way for long.

Don't be so quick to dismiss this as "non-collectable". The transition era bass guitars with the "Fender" logo and small "Squier Series" label aren't seen all that often.

I tend to agree with the collective value, I am drawn to creating a 40th anniversary clone but my gut tells me to keep it original. If you noticed this is a left handed Korean p bass, I have never seen a 93 lefty. I appreciate your feedback.....

 

[DURP]

It looks like you are going to need to graft on a little spacer of fingerboard material to get the new nut in the correct position. This will need to be measured very carefully or your instrument will never play in tune.

A buddy gave me a section of rosewood from a broken fret board the matches pretty well, I will indeed be making a sectional graft to inlay. I will post photos when I approach that juncture....

 

[DURP]

That slot has been widened. You must make sure your witness point on the nut is 17" from the 12th fret so scale is correct. I'd measure to make sure the edge of your slot is at 17", and if its not glue in a strip of rosewood to get it there. Then see if you can get a pre-slotted nut you can make fit, or buy a blank (brass, plastic, bone, Corian) and make one from scratch.

Thank you! That number is what I was hoping to find, I will keep that in mind when I move to graft, waiting on nut now, Noone has a nut here in the place I live, it's a very small town so I must have it shipped...thank you again

 

[Reedt2000]

Thank you! That number is what I was hoping to find, I will keep that in mind when I move to graft, waiting on nut now, Noone has a nut here in the place I live, it's a very small town so I must have it shipped...thank you again

No worries

It's always 1/2 of total scale length. Fenders are 34" scale. This is crucial, all the notes will be off it that isn't right.

 

[DURP]

I can't help you with your nut problem, but FYI, it's not a "silver series" unless it actually says "silver series" on the headstock, like this:

View attachment 7181669


What you have there looks like a Fender Squier Series, also cool, but different.

My bad, thank you for the correction, I was told the silver decal is representative of the silver series opposing the solid black decal

 

[DURP]

That nut seems excessively wide, most Fender nuts are 1/8". No worries, except if material was removed between the nut and 1st fret.

I'm with @Reedt2000, I would measure from the twelth fret to the nut line to make sure that wood hasn't been removed. Then go back with a stock style (1/8") nut.

Will do and thank you...