Odd saddle issue on new am dlx J bass

[BCY123]

Just Bought a new J Bass . I really like it so I removed all the tags and stickers and did a setup on it today...Put my favorite ECB81 XL Chromes 100s Flatwound D'adddarios on it....

Everything came in just fine: Pup height, intonation, relief and string height....however.......the saddle for the E - and only the E - is essentially resting on the bridge plate and the end of the intonation screw is almost touching the bridge plate. I have never seen anything like this. Now the Bass is in tune up and down the neck, and the string height is 6/64 for G, D and A...and just a tad higher for the E. That's not necessarily bad, but it seems odd that the saddle is maxed out for lowering.

You folks have any ideas??

 

[Lownote38]

Many Fender Basses need a neck shim so you can keep the bridge saddles higher. That's what needs to be done here.

 

[BCY123]

thanks....Yes would seem like the obvious fix....but the A, D and G are exactly correct.....so fixing the E will make these saddles too high. It is sort of like the neck is mis-milled and the bass side is too low/thin.

i have been fixing and setting up gtrs for years and if they were all low, then of course I would shim as you suggest, but this is just plain weird...i am not able to post attachments (not sure why) but I saw another player on a UK bass site who had the same issue and posted a picture....
see here
http://basschat.co.uk/topic/228639-taper-wound-strings-for-fender-usa-precision-v-strung-through-body/

many thanks for your help.

 

[BCY123]

So finally got some pics of the odd saddle:

http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k433/Byron186/photo2_zps463921d7.jpg

http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k433/Byron186/7fb0d9df-2d02-4eaa-a44b-72c2eb767ffd_zps2ca700e4.jpg

http://i326.photobucket.com/albums/k433/Byron186/photo1_zpsc86c526a.jpg



thanks

 

[acebase62]

Some "high mass" bridges have larger than stock saddles, which can result in this condition.

The Gotoh 201 bridge is one example of a bridge with large saddles.

Switching to a more vintage style bridge or changing to smaller bridge saddles might be considered.

(I'm not sure of your saddle size relative to vintage bridges)

I recently bought a Gotoh 203 bridge which has smaller saddles than the Gotoh 201.

Here are some visual examples:

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[Turnaround]

You need to set the witness point on the E string. There's too much of an arch in the string past the saddle (toward the neck). Once you get that straightened out the E string will be sitting lower and you will be able to raise the saddle a little.

 

[rogerb]

From that photo, it looks already lower than the A string, and it also looks like you need to set that "witness" point or whatever they call it around here, the string should break over the saddle your is a little rounded, so it is up a bit higher.

Push down on the string just in from of the saddle to make the break angle more evident, that will get you a 'tad' but not much lower.

 

[Lownote38]

I still say shim it. The other saddles can still be raised if you do this. As it looks, your A string is higher than the rest in an unnatural way.

 

[Doug Parent]

I say shim as a last resort, only because I'm stubborn that way.
If you find an E string that is TAPERED you will solve this issue instantly. It's the only thing I can think of unless you switch out the barrel itself with one of smaller diameter. (good luck finding one)

This is a design snafu on Fender. I've had to deal with this many times.

 

[DWBass]

Yeah, I usually push down on the string over the break angle on the saddle. That will cause the string to sit lower and you should be able to raise the saddle. You can also file the string groove down a little so the string can sit lower as well. Shim the neck as a last resort.

 

[Britbonic]

I just went through this same exercise on a 74 AVRI Jazz Bass. Had everything setup perfectly, action nice and low, etc. Even with the older vintage style bridge which has a thinner bass plate than the Am Dlx was not able to get saddles low enough without bottoming out. Ended up putting a small shim in neck pocket that was just enough to make a difference. You could switch to a vintage style bridge but for the 10 minutes that it takes in make and install a shim I'd try that first.

 

[Doug Parent]

Tapered E string. Done. OOps I already answered this.

 

[Guygrooves]

Im going through this with my recent Fender P-Deluxe~ 2007 AND went through the same with my 2011 P-deluxe. Saddle to the ground and still a pinch high action wise for me...

The saddle isnt notched correctly for my gauge string-a Fender tapered string could work if not going through the body.(semi hard to find). But Im tempted to just file out the saddle just like a badass bridge.~ Allow the string to rest in the saddle and not ride above on the grooves.. All are OK but the E.. Easily replaceable if needed later as well. Cheap fix!~

 

[joeyl]

I say shim as a last resort, only because I'm stubborn that way.
If you find an E string that is TAPERED you will solve this issue instantly. It's the only thing I can think of unless you switch out the barrel itself with one of smaller diameter. (good luck finding one)

This is a design snafu on Fender. I've had to deal with this many times.

the 90s MIA Fenders came from the factory with tapered Es and saddle was fine, Change the strings and you have the same problem.

 

[JustForSport]

It must cost too much to route a little for the bridge...
then people could buy and use non-tapered strings.
That flexibility should be built-in rather than having to 'rig' it.

 

[96tbird]

String has a bad arc (just look at pic 2)in it where it breaks over the saddle. Bend it down flat (witness) and you will be able to raise the saddle to where it should be.

 

[96tbird]

You need to set the witness point on the E string. There's too much of an arch in the string past the saddle (toward the neck). Once you get that straightened out the E string will be sitting lower and you will be able to raise the saddle a little.

Yes.

 

[96tbird]

Yeah, I usually push down on the string over the break angle on the saddle. That will cause the string to sit lower and you should be able to raise the saddle. You can also file the string groove down a little so the string can sit lower as well. Shim the neck as a last resort.

Yes.

 

[Zooberwerx]

String has a bad arc (just look at pic 2)in it where it breaks over the saddle. Bend it down flat (witness) and you will be able to raise the saddle to where it should be.

Disease du jour, eh? No witness point(s) resulting in a lazy loop as the string passes over the saddle. Stringing thru the body exacerbates the condition. Set your witness points at both the bridge and nut. You'll probably be able to raise the saddles considerably.

Riis

 

[walterw]

yep!

i got pix!

no:

yes!

you'll find that fixing this also fixes the intonation, to where the saddle doesn't need to be nearly as far back.