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OFFICIAL Steinberger Synapse club

Awesome! Thanks for the heads up!

by the way I have a black Synapse 5 string that I am really looking to trade for a 4 string if anyone is interested.
I bought it thinking I could get used to playing a 5er and really like the low B, just can’t get used to the width of the neck in the neck. I converted one of my 4 strings to BEAD and that has been great, so I’m hoping to trade for a 4.
 
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Just checked SW. Those prices are crazy! $18 for a 5-string set (which is sold out) and $15 for a 4-string set.

Bass Guitar Strings - Sweetwater

Somebody check with their sales engineer and get the scoop on why these sets are so cheap.
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...where to hide a switch for selecting the modes.
View attachment 5383531

I ended up using a DPDT 3 position switch to get serial, parallel, and single coil options for the mag-side of the preamp. Piezo was kept...I have to say the tone of the piezo changed once I unplugged the active EMG, a lot more meat to it. Maybe I'm crazy. I snuck the switch more or less behind the bridge. It's out of the way in a protected spot, and I didn't have to modify the stock preamp nor drill into the face of the bass. I'm happy with this.

PXL_20240420_052139789.MP.jpg
 
Interesting to see these posts about modding Synapses. I can better see modding the Spirit basses, even though they arguably didn't need to be, but the Synapses were more of a mid-tier post-Steinberger Sound bass, with a better pickup and electronics package.

I think that stock Synapses would have a better resale value were an owner to try to sell them. But.. it's the owner's decision to mod these.
 
Interesting to see these posts about modding Synapses. I can better see modding the Spirit basses, even though they arguably didn't need to be, but the Synapses were more of a mid-tier post-Steinberger Sound bass, with a better pickup and electronics package.

I think that stock Synapses would have a better resale value were an owner to try to sell them. But.. it's the owner's decision to mod these.
Yep agree, modding is the decision of the owner. I’ve harvested bridges and necks from Spirits and replaced bodies to build to my preferences because, for me, the bodies were too big and the EMGs were pretty terrible. Those were the gateway basses that got me into full out scratch builds and CNC for my current/future builds.

I finally bought a Synapse because I really wanted that particular headless with the piezo system, but only had played a couple of them years ago and knew that they were clunky. Then once I found and bought the model I’d been searching for, I realized all of the shortcomings with the bass (posted above). I don’t care about resale as much as I care about playability and usefulness to me as a gigging instrument. The stock instrument is not useful (as is) to me, but I feel that it has potential, so I’ve opted to mod it… it’s getting a replacement fingerboard with actual wood (Wenge or Ziricote) and better frets with a better truss rod and I’ll route the body to lower the bridge for lower action. This for me, will make it playable. If I decide to sell it some day, then someone will have an opportunity to own a far superior Synapse from the stock instrument with an upgraded fingerboard, better truss rod, and better playability… all things that should have been a part of the original design IMHO.
 
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I finally bought a Synapse because I really wanted that particular headless with the piezo system, but only had played a couple of them years ago and knew that they were clunky. Then once I found and bought the model I’d been searching for, I realized all of the shortcomings with the bass (posted above). I don’t care about resale as much as I care about playability and usefulness to me as a gigging instrument. The stock instrument is not useful (as is) to me, but I feel that it has potential, so I’ve opted to mod it… it’s getting a replacement fingerboard with actual wood (Wenge or Ziricote) and better frets with a better truss rod and I’ll route the body to lower the bridge for lower action. This for me, will make it playable. If I decide to sell it some day, then someone will have an opportunity to own a far superior Synapse from the stock instrument with an upgraded fingerboard, better truss rod, and better playability… all things that should have been a part of the original design IMHO.

Good point, Barticus. I agree that the mods you made are improvements and it should not be hard to find a buyer who also agrees.

I would have to play your modded Synapse to experience the mods for myself. I like my two Synapses as they are. It was just a matter of finding the right strings for them. I really like the Stringjoy nickel roundwounds (single-ball with clamping system.)

I just finished a theatre show in which I played one of my G&L L-2500s. In hindsight, I should have used my Synapse 5'er because it has a more polite, less growly tone. I got in trouble (heh heh.. not) with the sound guy because of the aggressive mids from the G&L. Personally, I thought the tone was terrific, but oh no, the sound man knows how the bass should sound better than the bass player does. I think the Synapse would have fit his notion better.
 
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Good point, Barticus. I agree that the mods you made are improvements and it should not be hard to find a buyer who also agrees.

I would have to play your modded Synapse to experience the mods for myself. I like my two Synapses as they are. It was just a matter of finding the right strings for them. I really like the Stringjoy nickel roundwounds (single-ball with clamping system.)

I just finished a theatre show in which I played one of my G&L L-2500s. In hindsight, I should have used my Synapse 5'er because it has a more polite, less growly tone. I got in trouble (heh heh.. not) with the sound guy because of the aggressive mids from the G&L. Personally, I thought the tone was terrific, but oh no, the sound man knows how the bass should sound better than the bass players does. I think the Synapse would have fit his notion better.
I have a bunch of project builds in flight right now, but once I have the mods complete I’ll post a review.

Funny that your G&L was too aggressive, but love that. :thumbsup:

I had a similar situation a of couple weeks ago, we played played a large outdoor show (50k watt system!)… I was doing sound check and the sound engineer pauses me and asks, since I was wireless, if I could walk down front to take a listen… then said “do you expect to hear that much growl?” my response “YEP!” :woot: it was an empty venue at that time so I was able to experience that full 50k watt growl from out front, like a massive bass amp… amazing and very fun!

It was just a matter of finding the right strings for them. I really like the Stringjoy nickel roundwounds (single-ball with clamping system.)
I’ll have to check these out.
 
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Has anyone done a truss rod replacement on a Synapse? I saw one thread from 10yrs ago, but wondering if anyone else has done the removal of the CF channel?
Someone on the steinberger Facebook page gave a a synapse a full facelift and turned it from blue trans to green trans and then did some work on the u Channel years ago

Honestly how often are you guys adjusting your truss rods?
I’ve adjusted it twice by a luither who also owned one and then switched to NYXL double ball strings

Never had an issue so far other then preamp I messed up trying to mod it …. And a pickup swap to Emg DC40
 
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Someone on the steinberger Facebook page gave a a synapse a full facelift and turned it from blue trans to green trans and then did some work on the u Channel years ago

Honestly how often are you guys adjusting your truss rods?
I’ve adjusted it twice by a luither who also owned one and then switched to NYXL double ball strings

Never had an issue so far other then preamp I messed up trying to mod it …. And a pickup swap to Emg DC40
Nice.
To answer your question, about adjustment… the action on this was extremely high, and I couldn’t get it lower with just saddle adjustment… when I took a look at the truss rod, I immediately saw that it was broken.

Since I waited to buy this color of a Synapse for quite some time, I do want to keep it. Therefore, it is going to get a new truss rod and a better fingerboard than it had originally, albeit still with a chunky neck. Then the action will be extremely low the way I like it.

So for me, it will finally be a keeper. 😎👍🏼
 
Nice.
To answer your question, about adjustment… the action on this was extremely high, and I couldn’t get it lower with just saddle adjustment… when I took a look at the truss rod, I immediately saw that it was broken.

Since I waited to buy this color of a Synapse for quite some time, I do want to keep it. Therefore, it is going to get a new truss rod and a better fingerboard than it had originally, albeit still with a chunky neck. Then the action will be extremely low the way I like it.

So for me, it will finally be a keeper. 😎👍🏼
New fretboard?
I think the phenolic has always been great
Considering I’ve had the b quad 4 and b quad grind 5 hybrid mutt

As well as synapse and a few other basses
 
Anybody know where to get the string jaws nowadays? I tapped one out but the threads are too coarse and it is hard to turn. I can't find anything to replace it. Stainless would be nice but even the original pig-metal would be ok. I also replaced the original single ball ends in the head with steel homemade rigs as the crappy metal originals $#!t the bed as well. I like the sound but there is absolutely no customer service on these rigs from Gibson and their reliability is sketchy. I lucked out and was able to get insurance to refund the original purchase price of my first one which an authorized Gibson luther was unable to repair. The bowtie piezo bridge makes it near impossible to get the intonation right on mine.
It sounds like I don't like this bass but I actually do, otherwise I would not have replaced my original nor spent as much time as it took to manufacture my own replacement parts.
If no one knows where I can get a replacement jaw, I might try heli-coiing it...
 
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I ended up JB welding the threaded post into the jaw holder to fix the thread problem. Several years in and is still holding. Re-reading your post, I want to verify this is the problem you describe - the threaded hole on the back of the jaws stripped out? Not sure how this problem would make the tuning knob hard to turn. If you stripped out the knob hole or the knob end of the threaded post, you could find a slightly larger threaded post and drill and tap the jaw and knob to match.

Also, give Gibson support a call - they may still have the parts in stock (I got a new string clamp assembly from them several years ago).
 
I ended up JB welding the threaded post into the jaw holder to fix the thread problem. Several years in and is still holding. Re-reading your post, I want to verify this is the problem you describe - the threaded hole on the back of the jaws stripped out? Not sure how this problem would make the tuning knob hard to turn. If you stripped out the knob hole or the knob end of the threaded post, you could find a slightly larger threaded post and drill and tap the jaw and knob to match.

Also, give Gibson support a call - they may still have the parts in stock (I got a new string clamp assembly from them several years ago).
Yes that is exactly the issue I had. I tapped out the jaw and put in a new threaded rod but the threads were too coarse - not enough threads per inch therefore, it has to turn harder to tighten the strings. My bad for not thinking it through before I started the fix. Thanks, I'll give Gibson one more chance.
 
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