Over the weekend, on my fretboard I just used those new Wonder Wipes that Ernie Ball just came out with. They have one for fretboards, it's a cleaner/conditioner and it worked great!
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Oil on rosewood fingerboard
- Thread starter AmazingGracePlayer
- Start date
I always douse my fingerboards with GHS Fast Fret (mineral oil). The stick makes it easier to apply without worrying about excess, and it keeps things moisturized quite nicely. I just make two or three passes over each space between the frets, with a little time in between to let it soak in, then restring and I'm good to go. It's also handy for cleaning strings (what you're really supposed to do with it).
- Mar 30, 2007
- 4,017
- 321
- Disclosures
- Endorsing Artist: Genzler Amplification/Spector Basses/Mojo Hand FX
OK...dumb question time...
Do you buy Linseed oil and then boil it...or is it sold as "Boiled Linseed Oil"?
And where do you get it?
Do you buy Linseed oil and then boil it...or is it sold as "Boiled Linseed Oil"?
And where do you get it?
Sold that way and it's HIGHLY FLAMMABLE. Don't leave the rags lying around unless your homeowner's insurance is paid up.
No... You don't cook with it unless you're not into living long. Try a hardware store.
Would it be better if I used a toothbrush w/ water to clean the fingerboard first then apply the boiled linseed oil?
I don't think wood is too picky. Almost any penetrating molecular weight, non-vegetable oil is fine.
I also use the Guitar Honey product. It works well and a little goes a long way.
I also use the Guitar Honey product. It works well and a little goes a long way.
I use the dunlop formula 65 lemon oil. Really good stuff, doesn't dry the figerboards or anything... The GHS fast fret is also good, cleans your strings as well and lubricates them, much cleaner then turkey... ;D
I've btw used benchtop wax on a guitar, turned out really well. It hardens, so it's just as hard as a standard finish, but it doesn't crack or chip, and it feels like oiled wood...
I've btw used benchtop wax on a guitar, turned out really well. It hardens, so it's just as hard as a standard finish, but it doesn't crack or chip, and it feels like oiled wood...
You can accually boil raw linseed oil yourself, my granny does it all the time, since she's into painting and stuff.
Oh you can... I just wouldn't do it in anything I wanted to use for cooking later and given the flammability factor, not something I'd recommend unless you know what you're doing.
http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=306989&highlight=Lemon+Oil
A search for Lemon oil in titles reveals 15 threads on this topic. Most are in Setup and Repair, just FYI.
A search for Lemon oil in titles reveals 15 threads on this topic. Most are in Setup and Repair, just FYI.
Yeah I read all those too, but my original question on on the thread is "should I use olive oil?"
But good try
Stay Away From Linseed Oil! It is very heavy. You want a light oil that has hi viscosity, penetrates, and wipes off quickly.
My process for cleaning rosewood and ebony boards:
1) wipe board up and down with a worn nylon scouring pad (when they get to that thin, flexible state), I do it dry
2) clean the residue with a clean old T-shirt and windex (I use the pump)
3) light coat of lemon oil, and wipe off excess..
4) Buff with clean dry t-shirt
I only do this about once a year
...I wipe my instruments down all the time with clean towels and old t-shirts, so there never really is much build up
1) wipe board up and down with a worn nylon scouring pad (when they get to that thin, flexible state), I do it dry
2) clean the residue with a clean old T-shirt and windex (I use the pump)
3) light coat of lemon oil, and wipe off excess..
4) Buff with clean dry t-shirt
I only do this about once a year
...I wipe my instruments down all the time with clean towels and old t-shirts, so there never really is much build up
I use raw lindseed oil. A guitar tech told me the reason why
not to use boiled but I cant think of it right now. I just put
some on a rag and rub it in. You should rub in constant
swirls as it warms the wood and opens the pours, and lets
the oil sink in......let dry over night !
not to use boiled but I cant think of it right now. I just put
some on a rag and rub it in. You should rub in constant
swirls as it warms the wood and opens the pours, and lets
the oil sink in......let dry over night !
I went to my local arts/hardware store and they have a huge shelf of standard linseed oil... none of them say boiled...
"Bore oil" which has been used on woodwind/violins instrument for many years. It works great for this purpose. Go to music store that sells band instruments and it is also cheap to boot.
Yup - like $1.50 a bottle. The trick with any of 'em is to JUST USE A LITTLE. You're not going to make the fingerboard shine like epoxy regardless of how much you use, and using too much just leads to ugly things like fret sprout and flat spots on the board.
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