I use a press and hammer occassionally. A friend of mine who is into metalwork made the caul and I made a set of around 7 inserts from scrap brass. The press, not an arbor but some other contraption made to serve as that, and the parts were free. The 16" and 20" inserts are good for 6 string basses. It's definitely much easier and quicker using the press.
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Ok, talk me into a fret press system
- Thread starter scottyd
- Start date
Until I find a better spot for it, this thread has been added to the Tools section in the FAQ sticky.
Now, I'm still waiting to hear yes/no on the Stew Mac Fret Press Arbor. I don't need the full system as I've already got the caul and brass insert. I'll be doing a 4 string board in about a week, and a 6 string board a few weeks after that. Even if the arbor didn't have the throat to center the 6 string board, couldn't the frets be pressed one side, then the other?
Now, I'm still waiting to hear yes/no on the Stew Mac Fret Press Arbor. I don't need the full system as I've already got the caul and brass insert. I'll be doing a 4 string board in about a week, and a 6 string board a few weeks after that. Even if the arbor didn't have the throat to center the 6 string board, couldn't the frets be pressed one side, then the other?
My arbor press is just 1/2 ton and it has plenty of space even for a 7 string. And yes, you can press one side and then the other, but it's really not necessary for at least 7 strings (maybe more?).
Thanks for the info Wilser. You've never had an issue with the 1/2 ton versus a heavier press?
budman
Commercial User
- Oct 7, 2004
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- Owner/Builder of LeCompte Electric Bass
I use a combination of press and hammer. I use a drill press. Get the whole set of cauls if you go with the Stew-Mac setup. They're 16" radius might not match your 16" radius, or whatever. You still have to tap the frets in a little bit to get them started if you use a press anyway. Sometimes it's just faster to whack them in with the hammer, epsecially on wide necks, and I don't find that much of a difference in the outcome. Even when you use a press you may have a few frets that didn't seat all the way for various reasons and you've got to use the hammer. I've switched to using the plastic side of the hammer head a while back. There's way less wonkyness to the frets and leveling and recrowning goes much smoother. I only use the brass side to bend the ends over before glueing and trimming.
- Jun 6, 2004
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- Owner and builder Clementbass
In reading the following I think it may work for us.
"Throat depth 4-3/4" (120.65mm)
The distance from the center of the ram to the vertical support beam is 3-1/8" (79.38mm). "
- Jun 6, 2004
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- Owner and builder Clementbass
Well I just ordered it. I don't like asking my drill press to do a job it wasn't made for anymore......
Now if I just had bigger radiused brass inserts.......
Well I just ordered it. I don't like asking my drill press to do a job it wasn't made for anymore......
Now if I just had bigger radiused brass inserts.......
Well poop: you beat me to it. I'm just waiting for some stuff to sell before I pick one up.
Out of curiousity, has anyone tried using the Stew Mac caul to tap the frets in? In other words, get the fret ready like you would to press it, line up the caul/insert on the fret and then use a hammer to tap the back of the caul, which would slowly tap/press the fret in...?
I think I tried that when I found my drill press table wasn't stiff enough. Trouble is there's too much force required when you're doing the whole fret at once. You'd have to tap it with a 20oz hammer.
I don't know about the vs a heavier press because I don't have one. But the small one is strong enough and has the added advantage of being relatively small in size and portable, so I can just dump it on a shelf and take up little space when not in use.
Bud's explanation is spot on. If your insert matches your board radius you'll have less issues, but you may still need to use a hammer to finish. I check the board before making the decision to use the press, hammer or both.
They're very easy to make. I use the belt sander to radius the inserts.
They're very easy to make. I use the belt sander to radius the inserts.
- Jun 6, 2004
- 6,353
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- Owner and builder Clementbass
- Jun 6, 2004
- 6,353
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- Owner and builder Clementbass
Fretting today using the press below. There is enough throat on this to do a 9 string.
Would a mortising machine work in place of the arbor press? My Powermatic has similar mechanics.
It probably would be fine. The mechanical leverage ratio of a mortising machine is usually higher than a normal drill press, because it also has to push the square sleeve bit down into the wood. It should have plenty of power for pressing frets.
It doesn't really take that much force to press in frets; maybe 50-100 lbs. To an arbor press or a modest size drill press, that's nuthin'. With an arbor press, you have to be careful not to crush the neck wood.
