lowfreqgeek said:Resistors, opamps, caps... All can make a difference, but the trick is knowing when and where to use what and how the specific part used will make the difference. Metal-film resistors (the blue ones) have tighter tolerance and less Johnson noise (up to 40dB less!!) than carbon resistors (usually tan), but blindly replacing ALL the carbon with metal-film won't necessarily buy you much. Same for caps - the signal-path coupling caps in the SWR amps are all WIMA audio-grade Polyester. At least they used to be. While you may get better (at a price), not every cap needs to be audio-grade.
But it sounds like your tech is pretty good, so I'm sure he's familiar with what makes sense and what doesn't. The main thing is that you don't go to the expense of changing every component without understanding why/what/how it behaves.
I may try some TLEx072s in my Line6 UX2. The TL072s are very noisy with high gain (like the gain required to run a Jensen xfmr-equipped DI) and the power supply is already taxed. The 5V supply means I really need rail-to-rail to have any headroom (OP275 is out...) on the instrument input, and the supply can't give any more juice. I've already done major (really major) upgrades, but it's not there yet.
Doesn't really matter, though, as I have an RME for the "real" work...
My tech was very specific and intentional in the placement of the metal-film resistors...not all resistors got replaced (which until now did not make much sense to me, but obviously he new what he was doing :-D). Those 10000 uF caps are awesome! I've never had the "thermal meltdown" problems associated with the SM+900's to begin with, but the caps help the amp to stay at a "normal" operating temperature even in my skb rack case. Like I said this guy is a genius...he's just released a line of fully hand made preamps and effects pedals! (who's prototypes were built on raw computer chassies and still sounded INSANE)
