Open A string buzz on brand new MIA P-Bass.

[chriscrob]

My parents bought me an MIA Deluxe P-Bass for my birthday.

I've been getting it set up but no matter what I do there is always a buzz on the open A string. It isn't an action issue, the buzz doesn't happen on any of the other frets. It seems to be coming from the nut area---either the string holder or the nut itself. If I press on the string right behind the nut it doesn't make the noise.
It doesn't seem to come through when it's amplified but its still pretty annoying---I live in an apartment and practice unamplified a good bit...and an unfixable buzz on a $1600 bass isn't really ideal.

Any ideas on possible solutions/has anybody else noticed this with the Stealth "A" string retainer?

 

[Slowgypsy]

Do you have enough windings on the tuning peg? Are the windings as low on the peg as possible?

 

[chriscrob]

Do you have enough windings on the tuning peg? Are the windings as low on the peg as possible?

I have plenty of windings...I'll check the height though. Good idea.

 

[chriscrob]

I have plenty of windings...I'll check the height though. Good idea.

I rewound the string a couple of times...same result.

 

[electracoyote]

Do a search here. This issue has been thoroughly addressed many times.

Check the break angle of the string after it crosses the nut going toward the tuning peg. It should noticeably break downward toward the headstock. If it's straight or near-straight, the string is not breaking enough over the nut to put sufficient pressure on the nut, and the string is vibrating in the slot. Extra windings on the tuning peg forcing the string downward as it crosses the nut is the quick easy fix.

Or...

The nut slot is cut too shallow on the A string and the open A is buzzing the first fret. Nut slot needs to be built back up and re-cut/filed or a new nut built by an expert.

It's a pretty common issue with Fender-style basses, almost always on the A. If you can't figure it out, a good tech can, and should be able to cure it quickly and cheap, free if you go to a Fender authorized tech.

 

[96tbird]

That A needs to be on the deck where it comes off the tuner post. This is the beginning point.

If that doesn't help, the next point: the string should only contact the nut on a very small point at the fret board side; if it contacts behind it can buzz in the nut.

To fix (this is a pretty easy thing to do) get needle files (they are pretty cheap... $8 max) at a hardware store. Loosen string and move the string out of the nut. Mark the finger board edge of the slot with a sharpie, just a dot in the bottom of the slot. File the tuner side of the slot at an angle greater than the string break angle. Do not file the sharpie mark away, that is your contact patch. You want the slot bottom to fall away from the contact point and the string so the string doesn't touch the nut behind that point. While you're at it clean up the other slots the same way. Finish the job by rubbing a pencil in the slots to provide graphite lubrication for the strings: smooth tuning.

 

[SLaPiNFuNK]

Problem on ALL p basses unless you add a tree.

Must make sure the string goes as far down close to the face of the head stock as possible. Shouldn't have to cut much of the a string and that will help it.

This was all mentioned above as well

 

[portlandguy]

Take it to a shop, they will help you sort it out

 

[joeyl]

sometimes the nut slot is cut angling down from the tuners towards the bridge, and vibrates in the slot. Reversing it or making the slot flat with nut files along with enough windings on the tuner post cures it.

 

[Willicious]

Problem on ALL p basses unless you add a tree.

All P basses? Really?

 

[SLaPiNFuNK]

I should have said:

"Problem on ALL P basses unless you take the time to get the A string as close to the headstock front as possible. You can avoid that by adding a tree."

From my experience unless they have a string retainer tree....

Especially on the newer ones that have the tuners that have that little concave to them rather than just straight cylinder shaped. Hard to get the strings as close to the fingerboard as possible.

Can't really get a good break angle...

My P-Bass

 

[Jazzdogg]

Problem on ALL p basses unless you add a tree.

Must make sure the string goes as far down close to the face of the head stock as possible. <SNIP>l

I've never experienced this with my '73.

OP: The primary winding on the tuning machine should be on the bottom - closest to the headstock; as you continue to wind the string, additional wraps should be on top of the primary wrap, to help hold the string tightly against the nut.

This may sound silly, but it works: Use a length of tubing as an improvised stethoscope to identify the source of the buzz as specifically as possible. If necessary, have someone else play while you "scope out" the problem.

 

[SLaPiNFuNK]

It affects basses more depending on the angle of the neck as well...

Maybe I am a little backwards today but your description of winding the string seemed backwards...

Note my picture above... Winding as close to the headstock face as possible. and its just enough for no buzz....

 

[96tbird]

I agree with slappin', he's spot on. The concave tuner barrels stink. You can't get the strings on the deck. Why did they have to reinvent the wheel?

 

[96tbird]

I've never experienced this with my '73.

OP: The primary winding on the tuning machine should be on the bottom - closest to the headstock; as you continue to wind the string, additional wraps should be on top of the primary wrap, to help hold the string tightly against the nut.<snip>

Does.not.compute. You talking about the A string? Winding from the deck upward? That lessens the break angle.

 

[Truktek2]

Had the same problem, even more when I tuned down. Rather than installing another string tree, I installed a plastic ziptie around all the strings and the neck (right before the nut) Works like a charm and not permanent.

 

[Masashi is God]

I had this issue with a brand new Mia jazz on the E...

I wrapped a shoelace around it, after the nut, and tied the shoelace around the neck... sorted

 

[Jazzdogg]

Does.not.compute. You talking about the A string? Winding from the deck upward? That lessens the break angle.

What I was attempting to describe is what SLapinfunk's photo depicts

 

[SLaPiNFuNK]

I think there was something lost in translation there!

Best thing to do is push down on the windings while tightening them. If the string is already wound up, just loosen it a bit, and then push down on the windings.

 

[Rocky McDougall]

Critical in getting a proper wrap on the A post is sufficient string length when cutting. I cut the length at about 4 1/2" on a concave post and at least 5" to 5 1/2' on a straight post. The straight post takes a long string to wrap all the way down to the bushing. It is much better to cut it too long and have to shorten it a little than cut it too short to start with.
Rocky