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output jack replacement instructions

#2
Do you know how to solder?

I've a Cort at home I'll look at.
Very easy job if you know how to solder and have patience, a soldering iron/pencil, and a set of needle-nosed pliers.

Let me know. I'll subscribe to this thread and try to check back tonight.

Steps:
1) Get a new Switchcraft or other quality replacement jack
2) Unsolder leads inside that are connected to the jack. Write down or remember which color goes where(tip or sleeve).
3) Loosen the outer nut that holds the jack into the bass while keeping it from turning in the body from the inside(requires two hands or a friend's help).
4) Take old jack out, put new one in. Put a VERY small drop of silicone seal on the threads that the nut screws onto. Tighten the nut but do not overtighten. Wipe off excess silicone seal carefully. The silicone is a preventative to keep the nut from vibrating off.
5) Solder the wires back to the new jack connections the same way they were on the old jack.

No big job and saves you some $$$.
 
#4
hey thanks for the help!

i have a soldering gun and am able to use it, although i wasn't aware that some solder is not appropriate for electronics - i'll double check my solder.

regarding the instructions above: is the jack removed but all the wires left in place? or does a new jack come with its own wires?

the reason i ask is because on my cort the inside of the electronics cavity is odd shaped. the jack, when screwed in, is not accessible (nor even visible) on the inside - it sits up inside a small section of the cavity. so, i'm assuming it's ok to solder it before i screw it into place?

i'll get a jack tomorrow and let you know how it goes.

thanks again!
 
#5
OK.

Get silver solder if you can as it makes better electrical contact and the tin-lead is not good fume-wise(lead) to have in the air.

New jack will have no wires.

There are two types of headless Corts/Steinclones. One has a battery and some sort of preamp(ACTIVE) and the other does not(PASSIVE). Also, the one with the preamp has three screws on the back cover plate.

The jack is one of the barrel type on the ACTIVE version(has a battery compartment and an LED with switch on the front) and uses either needle nose or a large flathead screwdriver to get off. The barrel jack looks to be a bit more work to get out.

The jack on the PASSIVE one(no LED or battery, two screws on the back cover) is a "normal" jack.
I believe this is the one you have. If not let me know, the other one is here as well.
Unscrew the nut on it and then, using care, the jack pushes into the control cavity and can be removed from the back with wires still attached.

The wire soldered to the back of one of the controls and to the tab touching the inner ring is the "ground". The one going from a tab on the control to the tab connected to the tip of the jack if the "postive" or hot. With new jack in hand, unsolder the old one, that is unsolder the wires from the jack. Now resolder them to the same tabs on the new jack.

Wife's got the camera in her purse out shopping!(She had it for Christmas pics at the school today). Once she gets home, we'll get pics of the bass jack job.
 
#6
Pics.

Take off the nut(keep the jack from turning inside so it doesn't twist wiring!). Push it in from the outside and remove from the inside with needle nose:
JackRemoveFXd.jpg


The 20 year old solder connection on one wire came out(bad solder connection from the factory) so I re-soldered both of them. Make sure you get the wires right. These are the same color which is lame. You can use a permanent marker on the wire insulation if you want to mark them before taking them off the old jack. Secure the wires on the jack to hold it in place while soldering:
SolderToJackFXd.jpg


Reinstall the jack into the tunnel/cave area:
ReinstallJackFXd.jpg


Use an ink pen, small screwdriver or something to help align the jack from the outside to get it in the mounting ring hole:
AlignmentTrickFXd.jpg


Put on a drop of silicone to make SURE the jack will not come loose or get wobbly or have the nut fall off somewhere(usually a dark stage with cracks in the floor):
NutSiliconeFXd.jpg


Put on the securing nut and tighten.

Plug it in and test it BEFORE putting the cover on.

If it works OK, put the cover on and you're done.
$15 ~ $25 "saved" by DIY.
 
#7
hey thanks johnny! those instructions are very clear, much appreciated!

yes, mine is the passive version. also, when i re-opened the back of the bass today and unscrewed the jack, one of the wires that connects the jack to the tone control came off the tone control (still connected to the jack). so, i'll have to solder that one at both ends...

anyway, i'll get mine taken care of this week - thurs or fri - and i'll get back to you then.

jeez i love TB :D

thanks man.
 
#9
Did you re-solder the "wire off the tone control" where it came off?

Other ideas:
If you have a cheapo meter
VOM.jpg


check wiring continuity starting at the jack and working back thru the controls to the pickup.
Somewhere either a "+" wire is touching the "ground" wire(draining the pickup output) or metal.

Example of a nick in a Gibson pickup wire that could cause signal to drop out or be weak:
70sEBpup03.jpg

70sEBpup02.jpg


OR a wire has come loose.
 

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