Passive 2EQ circuit

[pandathe3]

Ive been looking into making the most out of passive electronics, and have been looking at Rothsteins 'passive bass cut'. After some more digging about on the net i found leo fenders design for his g&ls. What i noticed was: there was both a bass and treble tone controls, the bass pot used a .0047uf cap.

So, i know im lazy, but i really cant make sense of putting together a diagram. Well, how to wire it up properly anyway. The reason why i want to do this is because i have an OLP on the way and want to switch out the electronics. It wont fit the battery and i prefer it passive anyway.

So can some just wire my ideas up please.

Here is the following idea:

Split coiled MM humbucker>
Series/Parallel switch (push/pull pot(1st pot))>
1st pot, Master Volume>
2nd pot, Bass rolloff>
3rd pot, Treble rolloff>
Output jack.

If someone could quickly make up a mock diagram, showing the best way to wire it up and indicating prefered pot and cap choice thatd be great!

 

[FunkMetalBass]

The treble and bass roll off are going to be up to you, but you'll want a much bigger cap for the bass than the treble (like a 0.1uF and .0047uF), because bigger capacitor = lower rolloff frequency.

If I have time tomorrow, I'll draft up something for you.

 

[pandathe3]

So if i wanted it to rolloff from 200hz would a 500k pot and a .0047uf be fine?

Also, ive heard that by disconnnecting the normal tone pot you can get a brighter sound? So, could i put a pushpull pot for the treble tone pot, then when engaged bypasses the cap altogether. Producing maybe a passive bright switch? Just another idea. Cheers!

 

[Stealth]

Can't help with the mock-up diagram, but I can explain the tone pot disconnection. It is possible to get a brighter sound if you take the normal tone pot out of the circuit. One of the ways is as you suggested, a push/pull pot that bypasses the cap (or, rather, leaves the entire pot "hanging" disconnected) would do just that. The other solution is making a Link Removed.