Patching holes in the plastic shell of OHSC ?

[bpabon]

What is your favorite trick for patching holes in the plastic outer shell of a OHSC ?
I've read the threads on fixing cracks and I want to cover holes big enough to expose the inner foam.

 

[Jhalb]

My first thought is black Gorilla duck tape.

 

[pfschim]

well, I'm guessing you could tape it up maybe, but the structural integrity of the plastic shell is done for and it will likely just keep failing under any kind of load-in/load-out use. Cases are pretty cheap, why not just get a new one ?

 

[bpabon]

Yes, eventually I will get a new one. It's just that it's the G&L branded case that came with the bass.

 

[MPU]

I guess you don’t have the missing piece? Try a search for plastic weling, find some sheet ABS or whatever the case is made of and shape a piece and weld it on.

 

[A Bass And Its Boy]

Buy a fiberglass surfboard patch kit. You can dye the resin component to match the case, and possibly even texture it.

You’ll need to put something under the missing piece of casing, to prop/back the fiberglass—maybe something like Gorilla foam seal? Once it hardens you should be able to sand it level before glassing over it.

 

[fretno]

Plumbers goop and duct tape

 

[Prodigus Filius]

 

[LanciaY10]

I guess you don’t have the missing piece? Try a search for plastic weling, find some sheet ABS or whatever the case is made of and shape a piece and weld it on.

Like this for example:

 

[braud357]

JB Weld

 

[Bassdirty]

Buy a fiberglass surfboard patch kit. You can dye the resin component to match the case, and possibly even texture it.

You’ll need to put something under the missing piece of casing, to prop/back the fiberglass—maybe something like Gorilla foam seal? Once it hardens you should be able to sand it level before glassing over it.

THIS ^^^^.

Any fiberglass resin repair kit from an auto parts store. I hadn't thought of surf boards, sounds like a good idea though.

Fiberglass definitely seems like the best permanent solution.


T$

 

[MPU]

Fiberglass does not bond well to ABS.

 

[MPU]

Like this for example:

Yes.

 

[dune]

With that damage, I doubt that anything short of a new case is going to be more than a cosmetic fix no matter what you use. Given that, I wouldn't mess with anything beyond the black duct tape that @Jhalb suggested.

 

[Steve Dallman]

Super glue the loose piece down. Fill the hole with JB Weld Steel Stick...about $7 at Walmart. It's the best of their products. You could cut away some of the foam to get a thicker layer of Steel Stick. The stuff is hard, hard, hard.

 

[Christophe C]

I repaired my G&l case with the same damage. The plastic is similar to the LEGO bricks. Original LEGO bricks (not counterfeits) can be melted in acetone, just adapt the quantity with the desired viscosity. I used old black bricks and plates from my old 80’s lego box.
I used fiberglass mat infused with the LEGO “goo” to close the hole and then I added layers of goo (less aceton) with a brush. Let it dry and sand when fully cured
I worked from the inside after having removed the foam padding.

 

[bpabon]

You’ll need to put something under the missing piece of casing, to prop/back the fiberglass—maybe something like Gorilla foam seal? Once it hardens you should be able to sand it level before glassing over it.

This may be the ticket, since I don't have the missing pieces and I have (40 years ago) patched surfboards.

 

[funkinbottom]

Maybe this ....

 

[bpabon]

... I used old black bricks and plates from my old 80’s lego box.

...and I happen to have black Lego™

I worked from the inside after having removed the foam padding.

Oh! I had not considered working from the inside, that is a game changer. Thank you.

 

[Christophe C]

Oh! I had not considered working from the inside, that is a game changer. Thank you.

Yes, for the first layers of fiberglass. To form a support for the external layers (cut to the size of the hole) and the last coat of “goo”
Be careful when removing the foam padding, work progressively to not break it