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Peaking

So I've never used distortion on bass before, but I've been jamming in a punk/grind band for a while, so I decided to get a Boss MD-2, and I LOVE the way it sounds. My thing is that it made me super loud (not a bad thing) but my compression/peak light is almost constantly on when I'm using the pedal. If I turn the pedal down I don't get the crunchy grind sound I like. I'm just wondering if this will eventually damage my cabs. I play a fender jazz bass through an Ampeg PF500 with 1 Ampeg 410 HE, and 1 behringer BB410. Like is said I like the sound, and volume I'm getting, but not
If it's gonna blow something.
 
So I've never used distortion on bass before, but I've been jamming in a punk/grind band for a while, so I decided to get a Boss MD-2, and I LOVE the way it sounds. My thing is that it made me super loud (not a bad thing) but my compression/peak light is almost constantly on when I'm using the pedal. If I turn the pedal down I don't get the crunchy grind sound I like. I'm just wondering if this will eventually damage my cabs. I play a fender jazz bass through an Ampeg PF500 with 1 Ampeg 410 HE, and 1 behringer BB410. Like is said I like the sound, and volume I'm getting, but not
If it's gonna blow something.
Is it the light on the input gain? If so, it doesn't matter really. If it's the output, that's something to be worried about.
 
That probably indicates that the pedal is adding input gain, triggering the compressor. As long as the compressor is doing its job and you've set your compression ratio to cap (maybe as a limiting mode) you shouldn't hurt your speakers. Does that pedal have a mix/blend knob so you can try to set it to unity gain?
 
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I have it set all the way up, but for some reason the light still comes on with every note. I have the gain on my amp set at about 7 and the master volume about half way.
Try backing the compression knob off a bit and see if that makes the light come on less. The way I'm reading the manual, it seems to say that turned all the way clockwise is maximum compression, while all the way counter-clockwise is minimum compression.
 
Try backing the compression knob off a bit and see if that makes the light come on less. The way I'm reading the manual, it seems to say that turned all the way clockwise is maximum compression, while all the way counter-clockwise is minimum compression.
Ohhhh well that would make sense then. Haha. I'll have to try that out tomorrow. Thank you for your help. I'll let you know how it goes.
 
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Ohhhh well that would make sense then. Haha. I'll have to try that out tomorrow. Thank you for your help. I'll let you know how it goes.
Also, keep in mind that the compressor light isn't the same as the limiter light, and so it's not necessarily a bad thing if it's coming on, if you like the sound you're getting.
 
Try backing the compression knob off a bit and see if that makes the light come on less. The way I'm reading the manual, it seems to say that turned all the way clockwise is maximum compression, while all the way counter-clockwise is minimum compression.

This is correct. If your compression is all the way up, the light will never go off.

Also correct is that this light coming on is not a bad thing. When the light comes on it just means that you are hitting the threshold of how you have the compressor set.
 
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Invalid Link Removed <--- Page 44: Compression Basics. It's easier to understand compressors when you can visually see what it does. Even better is to play with a graphical compressor, gate, limiter, etc. Not all compressors are created equal. You have slope, soft and hard limiting circuits too, depending on how it was implemented. The MXR M87 does soft limiting at 12db and hard limiting at a 20db ratio setting, for instance, and even brickwall if you set the attack to as fast as it can be. The nice thing about the MXR is that you can visually see the compression based on the input gain and understand the effect of lighting it up solid the whole time -- which just means that the compressor output is reducing the volume a certain amount based on the input sensitivity and doesn't hurt the compressor. A compressor used as a limiter can be used to protect speakers from sudden spikes that could damage them.

That said, you can still blow your speakers even with a compressor in place if your amp is rated higher than the load the speaker can handle. Another case is where your compressor's attack is too slow to react to a sudden full spectrum spike (eg. stepping on a cheap instrument cable and yanking it out of your guitar on stage in the middle of some loud playing). If the initial transient gets past the attack setting, the result is that it will hit your speaker and could blow it (given high or excessive volume).

In mixing and mastering, it's common to run a compressor and a limiter in the same signal chain. Limiters aren't always used for spike protection (you can just turn the volume down for that), they are also used to raise the volume floor of really soft sounds.

Even with all this knowledge, reading, etc. compressors are still a magical, difficult to master part of the signal chain, can really change your sound and playing for better or worse and can help you achieve different goals depending on where they are in the chain and how you want to use it. I have an M87 just after my envelope filter on the pedal board, I find it helps get a certain sound. I also have a built-in compressor on my Mesa M9 Carbine, which I keep around 9 o'clock on threshhold and ratio for a really subtle compression effect.
 
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as many have said ... the comp light mainly indicates it is working / doing it's job ...

but you should try to find pedal settings that give only a small bump in volume ... unity gain , plus just a little bit ... so you don't over-cook your amp's input = unwanted distortion ...

do you have the manual with your amp , ... they usually give a decent explanation of what/how their knobs work ...
 
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If I turn the pedal down I don't get the crunchy grind sound I like.

That's likely because you are overdriving the preamp of the PF500, esp. if you have the gain set at 7!!!

Here's the proper way to set the output of the pedal:

1. Put the pedal in bypass and set the amp volume you want.

2. Turn the pedal on and set the output level so that the amp volume is the same as #1.

If that removes some of the grind, you are definitely overdriving the preamp.
 
The compressor simply helps limit peak spikes and smooths out your tone a little bit in return, the light coming on
is telling you the compressor is working and/or hitting the level you have it set to. It probably doesn't offer much in the way of saving OR destroying your speakers. SPL's are the more concerning factor in this scenario. If it were me
I wouldn't worry about the compressor and even crank the gain if that's giving you the tone you want, but be
mindful of the master volume knob. The other 2 controls have more to do with tone and less to do with the
actual power and spl's going to your speakers, so if introducing this pedal into your signal chain produces a
very noticeable spike in volume... simply turn the master volume down. No guarantees you won't blow a speaker
but logic would dictate this would help in reducing that possibility. Personally I'd be more worried about frying
the input circuit/channel on the head.
 
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With decent compression AND ovderdrive you should keep a look to the movement of the drivers.
If there is random excessive cone excursion visible then there is either to much of OD or to much of compression or to much of lowish transient noise generated by (personal) playing style, or may be lowish tuning like F0# also can enhance these random overexcursions.
A HPF helps a lot to protect drivers from over excursion.
Random overexcursion is (mostly) not audible as artefacts like fart out, it rather seems to stay inaudible as long driver Xlim is not reached which would quickly damage driver VC. In long term view random overexcursion strains driver suspension and over time will likely cause mechanical damage (fatigue) to the suspension.
 
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I like the Red Witch Factotum pedal in that I can drive the hell out of it, decide how much drive to add to the mix, change the tone of the drive and also adjust the volume of the drive effect to set overall unity. The bass-pedals.com | Safe & SOUND Reviews guy is really big on finding pedals that have a mix or blend control to be able to balance the dry/wet sounds of any effect, and potentially help adjust unity gain.