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Peavey Cirrus?

I've had my claro walnut/bubinga Cirrus 5 for almost 7 years and the only reason I can think of to not get one. . . . would be that I just(last month) had to get the nut replaced due to the composite/graphite(whatever it was) original one wearing down to far. but hey the new bone one sounds better anyway. Oh also I had a tuner that broke last year as well. but keep in mind that this has been my main workhorse for 7 years and seen allot of wear and tear.
still. . . it's the best feeling bass I've ever played, and it's extremely versatile tone wise. but you asked why NOT to buy one so I'll just stop there.
 
. . would be that I just(last month) had to get the nut replaced due to the composite/graphite(whatever it was) original one wearing down to far. but hey the new bone one sounds better anyway.

I have noticed that the graphtech nuts do appear to wear a little faster than than others but that could be a perceptual thing. As I mentioned earlier, replacements are inexpensive, I do have a set of nut files now, plus I need a truss rod cover, so I'll be calling Peavey later today. Anybody need anything?

Riis
 
I prefer stainless strings, my body chemistry doesn't play well with nickels, and most nickels are not bright enough for me.

I have tried DR Longnecks, Loriders, Dean Markley SR2000s, D'Addario Prisms, Ken Smiths, and a few others. The closest I ever came to getting a satisfactory sound from the C string was the Prisms. Unfortunately, they no longer make those.:( I have not tried the Carvins that IronSpatula mentions, I might give those a shot.

I am considering changing to a low ADGCFBb tuning. The lower tension will definitely help the issue, and the B is excellent on this bass, so an A should be useable.

The Carvins I'm currently using are actually the nickel ones. I did try their stainless strings awhile ago but can't remember if they sounded as even as the nickels. I might pick up a pair of stainless next time I get strings... I'll let you know what I find out. At $15 a set (or less on sale) Carvin's strings are conducive to experimentation.

I've tuned my Cirrus to drop A a number of times. Sounded phenomenal while recording (direct), and it mixed well. A little harder to work with through my amp, but still useable IMO.
 
OK just so you know, when I win the Lotto I WILL own an Alembic and a Wal. Sounds like I might spend more time playing the Cirrus though :D

My experience is that you'll be disappointed OR posting ads here "I love my XXXX" folks do this as some type of mantra to help them learn to love them after they realize how much they spent on them. It didn't really fix anythng in proportion to the cost. There are better options to have them custom built.

Over the years, I've proably owned 200-300 basses... the hindsight advice is that a Cirrus is just about as close you can get to a botique bass without wasting stupid money.

Now.. chances are I'll be the only Cirrus owner on the board who has a BXP and a USA and will be honest about it - a BXP is slightly different than a USA... biggest thing is the finished neck - just like most lower cost import guitars, you do have to plan on setting them up. Funny thing is that most of the audiences that Basswakers try to convince themselves care actually have commented on the beauty of the Burl Walnut BXP more than the flame Redwood.

They've done such a great job on the BXP - I'm not persuaded my USA is worth the extra bucks... if this were my budget, I'd be picking up a BXP then scouring to scoup up a VFL (cirrus type picup) TL-5 (or EMG style TL6)

IF you do buy used, I would consider budgeting for a setup and tweek at a Luthier (not a guitar store).. it's common for 90% of Cirrus' to be used a to - used Cirrus' seem to be either day dreamers or play them to death.

I like it enough that I'm considering a 6 string
 
While certain brands certainly have fanboys that will have more claims than your average 4am infomercial, the Cirrus has a small, but strong following for a reason. You either like or dislike the sound, but nobody argues that it's pretty comfortable and the action is amazing.

I briefly tried a BXP and a Grind when they came out and they were OK. I found them to be a tad heavier and simply didn't have much desire to play them since the B on the Grind wasn't that good and the BXP was a little buzzy.

In regards to the nut, I still have the original nut on all of my Cirri. I've had 2 Millennium basses that needed to have the nut replaced from having the lowest strung sit too low, but that was it.

As for the value, most people balk at Peavey products due to the low resale. I don't mean to dismiss something with a lower resale, but I don't buy basses worried about selling them. If you can't afford the bass, wait. If you tend to cycle through gear, avoid buying new.

In terms of a set-up, I can't say that it's all too difficult. I tighten the truss rod to right before you'd get 3rd fret buzz. Then I drop the action to where there is some fret buzz, but not audible through the amp.