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Peavey Millennium 4 BXP bass guitar

N

NeverBend

May 3, 2012
3
0
Long Island, New York
#1
Hi Folks,

May I ask for some opinions about the Peavey Millennium 4 BXP bass?

I have a limited budget and I can get this inexpensively. I'm only going to play for my own satisfaction.

I've lost strength and facility in my hands so I'm looking for low action and a thinner neck. I just sold my old '66 Epiphone Rivoli that had a thick neck and high action.

Any thoughts are greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Regards,

Pete
 
#2
Hi there

I've had a Millenium AC BXP 5 string and it was an excellent instrument, with no issues and a good sound.

Try get an AC one, better electronics

i ahve a Cirrus BXP 4 which I don't like nearly as much.

Hope that helps

Mick
 
#3
I have a Millennium 4 BXP that I'm selling only because I've switched over to 5er's and its confusing me to go back and forth between 4 & 5. I love that bass. Its really high quality for what I paid - heck its darned good quality for any reasonable price, great tone for what I like, lightweight, great neck and fretwork. Mine was the passive, Jazz type pickups, not the AC. I gigged that BXP for a good while, had nice things said about my tone, and never once thought that it wasn't good enough. As I said, I converted to 5 string, otherwise, I'd probably still be gigging it.

I'm seriously considering buying a 5 string Millennium BXP to be my backup bass (behind my Peavey Cirrus 5er).

One recommendation - I love the sound of DR Fat Beams on that Millennium BXP. They'e warm, but crisp and clear at the same time. That just worked for me.

Yes, I'm a Peavey bass fanboy. No apologies for that either.
 
#4
I'm a big fan of the BXP line. The one fault that I've found in them is the small potentiometers that Peavey uses there. I don't think they affect the sound that much - I'm a "a pot is a pot" kind of guys. I think they wear faster and are more prone to scratchiness, and after a year or so they get that loosey-goosey feeling and are more susceptible to accidental bumps when you're playing. I have owned a BXP cirrus for a few years and have no qualms with that. The finish is super glossy and durable, although it seems a little thick, and I think the sound is as good as my USA Cirrus.
 
#7
once I shielded the thing, I was able to actually use it and do all the time for my practice at home unit, and bring it as a backup bass when my main unit is wearing down my shoulder with weight.

IMAG0629.jpg

.
 
#8
I have one, and after a sorely needed proper setup it works well. My main problem with it was the nut. That was a really bad job.

I use it as a rehearsal and backup bass. Light weight makes it really easy to play for a long time. The neck feels good. I chose the passive version, since I don't have to worry about batteries (a backup needs to be reliable, IMHO).
 
#9
I bought a bxp 5 as my first bass about 10 years ago. Still have it and still play it. Its a solid bass. Neck never moves on it either. No issues at all with mine. Highly recommended.
 
#10
I had a Milli BXP that I actually miss. Nice tones out of the pickups with a noticeable difference between the sounds (bridge/neck/combined), awesome neck profile, light weight. The neck on mine wasn't as stabile as I would have liked, I had to adjust it about 3 times each year due to temperature and humidity changes, but I know that some are more stabile than others. IMO, one of the very best basses out there for the money. I prefer the passive version for the J tones it is capable of, which I don't think the AC version does nearly as well (I have a BXP Cirrus with the same electronics). I find the active setup is pickier about what amp is being used, and what EQ settings are used, whereas my Milli sounded good no matter what I played through. Just needed some shielding...
 
#11
Shardik said:
I have one, and after a sorely needed proper setup it works well. My main problem with it was the nut. That was a really bad job.

I use it as a rehearsal and backup bass. Light weight makes it really easy to play for a long time. The neck feels good. I chose the passive version, since I don't have to worry about batteries (a backup needs to be reliable, IMHO).
Click to expand...

I'm taking my Milestone to the shop for work on the nut today. It's way too high! The nut is bad, the tuners are crap, but for the price you can't beat that slim neck!
 
#12
Changed to a brass nut today. The original nut is crap. Not only was it badly cut plastic, but the plastic proved to be hollow too.

I think the brass nut upgrade was the best spent $14 ever for an instrument upgrade.

I recommend a nut upgrade (not necessarily to brass) for all owners of this bass.
 
#13
Those thin Peavey necks feel great. I once had a Milestone that played well and had good tone. I have yet to try a recent Millennium BXP that is any good though.

Some of the older Foundations are a great buy and the necks are terrific.

Ibanez SR models are another nice alternative.
 
#15
Bought one recently that had a rise in the heel. Back to Amazon it went. Other than that I've tried a number of them in stores over the years. No doubt there are bound to be good ones straight out of the box or many capable instruments following a good setup. I've just not been impressed with what I've experienced.

I've owned a number of Peavey basses and all were nice instruments, in particular a Zodiac that I am still kicking myself for even letting it go.
 
#16
I have been fretting about the nut more than being nuts about the frets on this bass (even if I had to file off some fret ends sticking out).

I didn't realize how right I was about that nut needing a replacement until I actually popped off the old one when installing a new brass nut.

See picture below. Was it really necessary to go for a HOLLOW nut to keep the price down? I didn't expect much of a nut upgrade, but even before I have glued it in (I may have to adjust the string slots a bit more), the brass nut makes the bass both feel and sound more "solid" (in the lack of a better word). $20 including shipping for a new nut was worth it, IMHO. I bet that even cheaper parts nuts would make a big difference.

After replacement. Check out the underside of the old nut.
2013727_Old_nut_hollow01.jpg
 
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#18
The new nut is slightly wider than the neck (you feel it rather than see it), but I haven't bothered filing that. The thickness is a perfect match (I was prepared to fill in here, since my measurements was that the original was a bit thicker compared to the specs on the new nut. This proved to be no problem. The new nut drops in perfectly, but not so tightly that it required any force. I have to put in a drop of glue eventually.

String spacing was a bit wider than on the original nut. To me that is no problem at all, maybe even slightly better.

I have filed the string slots quite a bit, both deeper and a bit wider for the 3 thickest strings. The brass isn't as hard as stainless steel, more like aluminum. No problem.
 
#19
Shardik said:
The new nut is slightly wider than the neck (you feel it rather than see it), but I haven't bothered filing that. I have filed the string slots quite a bit, both deeper and a bit wider for the 3 thickest strings. The brass isn't as hard as stainless steel, more like aluminum. No problem.
Click to expand...

So now I'm inspired to follow your lead. When looking for a brass nut, what measurements souls I look up? Mine's a BXP 4.
 

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