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PJ pups and wiring sanity check

J

JohnnyC

Aug 17, 2010
10
0
#1
After reading a lot of threads here I think I have decided on the following configuration for my PJ re-wire project:

SD QP's (both neck and bridge)

Control 1 = Neck VOL 500K
Control 2 = Bridge VOL 500K
Control 3 = 4/way rotary switch

Sw Pos 1 = Neck pup
Sw Pos 2 = Both in series
Sw Pos 3 = Bridge pup
Sw Pos 4 = Kill

I find that I tend to run tone wide open all the time so no need to have a control on-board.

Thoughts/comments?
 
#3
line6man said:
I think most people like the sound of P and J pickups in parallel, so you're really missing out without that option.

Why not do a 5 way switch for neck/bridge/series/parallel/kill?
Click to expand...

Hmmm...not sure about the "most" statement but I hear ya and agree, why not just use a 5-way and have the additional option? I think will probably go that route, thanks!
 
#6
I have a VVT 3 way setup on my PJ jazz bass.

The setup is probably bit excessive and hard to use for most people, but if you want to have the pickups set at certain volumes when switching between them without making any adjustments, it's useful.

It depends if you use your volume controls regularly or not.
I only use them to match pickup outputs and never touch them after that.
 
#7
I think if I were playing it, I'd reach for the volume knob only to realize it's the wrong volume for the way the rotary knob is set at the time.

With a single master volume, it'd be easier to play live, given the switch.

With vol + vol, does a neck-only switch sound different than turning the bridge pup all the way down?
 
#8
mulchor said:
I think if I were playing it, I'd reach for the volume knob only to realize it's the wrong volume for the way the rotary knob is set at the time.

With a single master volume, it'd be easier to play live, given the switch.

With vol + vol, does a neck-only switch sound different than turning the bridge pup all the way down?
Click to expand...

If you can find the right notes to play on your neck, certainly you can reach for the right knob.:eyebrow:

Soloing the neck pickup might be a tad hotter/brighter than both pickups with the bridge rolled off.

The resistance of the bridge pickup's pot parallel to the neck pickup's pot decreases the resistance from the signal to ground on a regular VVT setup. When you solo the neck pickup with the switch, that resistance will increase, because the bridge pickup's pot will be out of the circuit.
 
#9
FWIW, you are going to need a 5 pole switch for the kill position.

I'm doing the setup in my head, so I could be over-complicating it, but the way I see it, you need one pole to connect the bridge pickup's + to either it's volume pot, or the neck pickup's ground. One pole to connect the neck pickup's ground either to ground, or the bridge pickup's hot. One pole to connect the neck pickup's pot to the output, and one pole to connect the bridge pickup's pot to the output.

The alternative would be wiring the pickups to the wiper terminals, so that the volume pot selection poles would not be necessary.
This is the same as a standard VVT setup, but the disadvantage is that the pot's resistance varies against the pickup, causing a variable resistance loading effect.
 
#10
line6man said:
I have a VVT 3 way setup on my PJ jazz bass.

The setup is probably bit excessive and hard to use for most people, but if you want to have the pickups set at certain volumes when switching between them without making any adjustments, it's useful.

It depends if you use your volume controls regularly or not.
I only use them to match pickup outputs and never touch them after that.
Click to expand...

Here's the genesis of this whole thing....

I have a PJ bass that is rear routed (no pickguard or cover plate). I've decided to upgrade with the SD QP's and I started thinking of how I use the current VVT controls. Also, the one feature I'd really like to add is a kill switch but I don't want to drill another hole for that, that's how I came up with replacing the tone with a pickup selector+kill switch.

90% of the time I'd probably use both pups blended via each Vol pot but there are instances that I want a strictly P sound and in a few instances, a strictly J/bridge sound - yes, I could do that with VV and be done with it but I want a kill switch - I suppose I could just wire it VV + on/off but since they make 3/4/5-way rotary switches, why not?
 
#11
JohnnyC said:
Here's the genesis of this whole thing....

I have a PJ bass that is rear routed (no pickguard or cover plate). I've decided to upgrade with the SD QP's and I started thinking of how I use the current VVT controls. Also, the one feature I'd really like to add is a kill switch but I don't want to drill another hole for that, that's how I came up with replacing the tone with a pickup selector+kill switch.

90% of the time I'd probably use both pups blended via each Vol pot but there are instances that I want a strictly P sound and in a few instances, a strictly J/bridge sound - yes, I could do that with VV and be done with it but I want a kill switch - I suppose I could just wire it VV + on/off but since they make 3/4/5-way rotary switches, why not?
Click to expand...

Why not just do VVT with a push/pull killswitch?
 
#15
I just fninished Phase 1 of my project as follows:

Bass = 2006 Fender Aerodyne Jazz

  • PUPS = Seymour Duncan QP's (both neck and bridge)
  • Neck VOL = 500K linear taper CTS POT
  • Bridge VOL = 500K linear taper CTS POT
  • TONE
    push = 250K audio taper CTS POT
    pull = kill​
  • Bridge = Babicz FCH
  • Strings = RotoSound Swingbass 66

Honestly, I can't say for sure how it sounds because all I have at home is my little practice amp. I'll let you know next time I get to jack-in to my main rig (GK RB-II + Ampeg 6x10)

Phase 2 parts on order:

  • Black/Cream/Black pickguard (to match finish/binding)
  • Chrome Jazz Bass control plate
  • Black Jazz-style control knobs
 

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