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Places to get cherry red poly
- Thread starter kvnjcbsn93
- Start date
Professional automotive paint suppliers.
Also not too sure that ReRanch's dyes can mix into polyurethanes. Maybe - but something bad can happen.
Wait - did you say 'poly' as in polyurethane? Make sure what you're asking for.
Also not too sure that ReRanch's dyes can mix into polyurethanes. Maybe - but something bad can happen.
Wait - did you say 'poly' as in polyurethane? Make sure what you're asking for.
Yea I meant polyurathane. And I was thinking of using stewmacs colortone dyes or LMII's equviemlent since they say you can mix into lacquer but I would need to see if they are still compatable.
Jazzdogg
Less barking, more wagging!
Transtint aniline dye can be added to a water-borne urethane finish, like General Finishes' High Performance, to create a tinted clear coat:
TransTint® Dyes - Rockler Woodworking Tools
General Finishes EF High Performance Polyurethane Top Coat - Rockler Woodworking Tools
TransTint® Dyes - Rockler Woodworking Tools
General Finishes EF High Performance Polyurethane Top Coat - Rockler Woodworking Tools
Hopkins
Commercial User
Are you going for a translucent or solid color? If solid I would buy a single stage automotive urethane. Nason is a good inexpensive brand, it should be available at any auto paint supply that sells Dupont.
Just for the record this polyurethane listed and all of the ones at Home Depot and similar are nowhere near as hard as the catalyzed 2 part automotive polyurethanes.
Now it's possible that he could use a 2k clear over this for good results, but it may also not work at all.
thanks for the links. Its going to be a translucent color. Its a piece of tiger striped mahogany im going to dye black sand then apply the color too. Im hoping i can get a nice bright type of red and not a SG type red, which im hoping spraying instead of rubbing will achieve.
Jazzdogg
Less barking, more wagging!
True enough. But, for someone who is new to finishing, they can be easier to use than catalyzed two-part auto finishes; I've seen lots of botched jobs, ruined guns, and wasted money when beginners attempt to use advanced products.
A n00b walks into a professional automotive paint store and asks the guy behind the counter for a two-part polyurethane paint.
The salesperson asks what type of gun and compressor the n00b has, and of course, he has none and says so.
The salesperson asks the n00b how many vehicles he's painted so far, and of course the n00b says he's painting a guitar for the first time and has never painted anything other than his mother's toe nails.
In further talking to the person, the professional paint merchant believes the n00b has no idea what he wants and talks him out of trying to put a polyurethane paint on his guitar.
End of story; happy ending.
FWIW: shooting poly is not a once-in-a-lifetime experience. It takes years of training under the wing of a professional to talk you thought the job from the first step to the last.
Trying to keep the failure rate to a minimum for ya.
The salesperson asks what type of gun and compressor the n00b has, and of course, he has none and says so.
The salesperson asks the n00b how many vehicles he's painted so far, and of course the n00b says he's painting a guitar for the first time and has never painted anything other than his mother's toe nails.
In further talking to the person, the professional paint merchant believes the n00b has no idea what he wants and talks him out of trying to put a polyurethane paint on his guitar.
End of story; happy ending.
FWIW: shooting poly is not a once-in-a-lifetime experience. It takes years of training under the wing of a professional to talk you thought the job from the first step to the last.
Trying to keep the failure rate to a minimum for ya.
Is there any other type of paint that would does not have the same wear as nitro? I mean I love nitro on my jazz basses but the bass I am making now is a more modern style and I would like to have a harder more durable type finish.
There's always Imron and acrylic enamel. Lacquer is pretty forgiving, but the color and application you are seeking is a tough one even for a professional.
Wait - you're in California - so you can't get those paints there unless you buy spray bombs.
Wait - you're in California - so you can't get those paints there unless you buy spray bombs.
Hopkins
Commercial User
Yeah its kinda like becoming a black belt in Kung-jitzu
I'm by no means a master finisher, but I have found that of the automotive paints I have used, urethane enamel is the easiest to apply. But I don't know if we are both talking about the same product.
Yeah its kinda like becoming a black belt in Kung-jitzu
I'm by no means a master finisher, but I have found that of the automotive paints I have used, urethane enamel is the easiest to apply. But I don't know if we are both talking about the same product.
It was amazing to me too after decades of shooting enamels and lacquers. It flowed very well - scary even, as it looked like it wouldn't. Gotta admit that I was filled with terror on the Porche I shot as my first endeavor. I'm still amazed that I got it to lay down - but I had a lot of experience in painting so it wasn't a quantum leap for me.
But here's what I'm saying --- a person with experience can make changes, but the learning curve for someone who has never shot anything, is almost a vertical line. (Not counting paint bombs or wall graffiti artists here)
Contamination and poor prep-work are gonna kill what might be a decent job and that's usually the killer for a guitar refinish. People who just want to slap some paint on their guitar is plain ignorance --- like they are whitewashing a fence or barn side.
A professional or experienced person may find a shortcut or two - but they too run the risk of a major screw up.
Actually, years of building surfboards got me further along than actual shooting the new reactive mixes. If one can envision flowing and flashing in air-dried paints, then chemical reactions aren't too much of a giant step.
The leap to catalyzed paints for a n00b, however, is jumping across The Grand Canyon without a jet pack. I believe that pumping daylight up under someone's skirt with ideas that even a caveman (or guitarist) can do it, is rife with disaster.
I always read the questioner's post and when I can see that there are too many n00b-ish questions, especially asking for a source for two-part 'poly' paints, a red flag goes up and then I'll start to pour cold water on the idea.
Anybody wanting to shoot 'poly's will know where to get them - it's an experience thing.
