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Double Bass Possible Neck Re-alignment?

Hi there, I'd like some advice about the set-up of my instrument. Let me first give you a bit of my background information. I'm a University student with not too much money to spend, my current instrument was made in China with all German wood and parts by Xue Chang Sun, it is a good conservatory instrument, and has a very clear and even orchestral sound. I stand at 5'6" and I have fairly short arms, so access over the shoulders of my bass is quite difficult at times.

Here is a list of my basses specifications to give all of you a better idea with what I'm dealing with:

2003 Xue Chang Sun, Round Back.
Mensure: 41.00"
Upper Bout: 20.00"
Central Bout: 14.75"
Lower Bout: 26.25"
LB Rib Depth: 8.75"
CB Rib Depth: 8.65"
UB Rib Depth (At widest point on shoulder): 7.75"
UB Rib Depth (At Button): 7.00"
Body length (Measured to top of Button): 44.50"
Bridge Height: 6.18"
Block Height at Neck: 1.10"


I do have the money to purchase a new instrument, perhaps something tailored more to my needs but I'd rather keep the money in the bank considering I do like the sound of this bass and I want an instrument that can keep up in an orchestra and not resemble a Rabbathian style instrument.

I'd like to know if a possible re-alignment in the angle/height of the neck would make a significant difference in allowing me to get over the shoulders and not have my forearm in pain. The neck is currently set fairly parallel to the sound board. I don't exactly know how or what is overstand or how to measure it.

I have by the way tried the Egg-Pin but it didn't really work with my instrument and I feel that this is more of a set-up issue versus how I sit when playing, because I've tried everything under the sun.

Thank you so very much.
-Calvin
 

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Looks to me like what you actually need is a bass with a smaller upper bout and no violin corners. Maybe even consider switching to German bow, that effectively gives you a couple of inches of arm length and might just make the difference… but that's a bit drastic.

I just measured my bass (1957 Höfner), and it's a half inch smaller in the upper bout, and a quarter inch higher in the bridge… and otherwise exactly the same dimensions. The bridge height difference doesn't sound significant, but the upper bout might be. I'm not entirely sure, being 5'11" myself.
 
:), I'm actually very happy with my French bow technique. My teacher is all about the bow and he was a student of Petracchi. I've tried a few Rabbath style basses with smaller upper bouts, but they just don't have the deep sound needed for orchestral playing. I've contacted several luthiers but none of them were really willing to make a bass with a small and very tapered upper bout and a large lower bout. I understand there should be a sense of symmetry but there are instruments like that, like the Pollman's. But I can't afford 20k. :(
 
The Wilfer is definitely a beautiful instrument, I'd love to see some specs on the sizing tho! The description from the website is a tad strange "Or an outstanding college and conservatory bass for a tall person. Nicely flamed woods." The upper bout looks a bit larger than mine, probably around 21". I've also heard Christian Laborie makes a Q model bass that is designed more for orchestral than solo, but is apparently easy to get around on. Has anyone played one of these Q basses? He said he made this one, unlike the other Q's which are done by George Vance.
 
The basses made by Laborie himself are in the 30,000 euro range, I believe. The Q basses sold by Vance are designed by Laborie and factory made.

Why don't you contact Lemur and get the specs on the "Upper Register" and let us know what they are? I suggest that you call or email the various bass shops and let them know what you are looking for. Something may be lurking out there that would be right for you.
 
I don't exactly know how or what is overstand or how to measure it.

I have by the way tried the Egg-Pin but it didn't really work with my instrument
-Calvin

The overstand is measured between the underside of the fingerboard and the top of the body at the bottom of the neck heel where it projects out of the top of the bass. I believe 1-1.25" is the typical height for newer instruments these days. Many older instruments that haven't had neck resets still have lower overstands as was the style back in the day.

Your current bridge height is not particulary high and probably could be raised to accomodate a higher neck stand. This might help you with LH access in the high positions, but I think your bowing arm would also have to come out farther from your body.

Why didn't the egg pin work? I've been using it and find that it does help me on my older instrument with a .75" overstand and comparatively lower bridge.
 
The basses made by Laborie himself are in the 30,000 euro range, I believe. The Q basses sold by Vance are designed by Laborie and factory made.

True, the Q basses are designed by Laborie and are factory made, but Christian also makes a Q model called the "Eco" model, which is built by him completely, it just doesn't have all the bells and whistles. It sells for 8,000.00 EUR.

In regards to the egg pin, it didn't work for my instrument because my bass is EXTREMELY heavy and the egg-pin couldn't support or balance my bass properly.

I still have the egg pin lying around if anyone wants to buy it. It's the "short" model.