Thanks for the "foolproof" help Eric, I think once I pop it open and take a look it will be a breeze. I will try and update everyone when I get to look at that cable, im just blown away..I was hoping it was something simple lol
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Power amp woes
- Thread starter emohair
- Start date
HAHA, your tellin me! What if I said this was a trick question all along?
muahaha...too bad thats not the case, classic case of user error
muahaha...too bad thats not the case, classic case of user error
Just keep those knobs down on the QSC when you first fire it up - bridge mode will use only the Channel "A" knob, and once wired correctly the difference should be . . . um . . . quite noticeable!
I did the same thing with my old PLX1602. When you've got the cable +1 -1 on both ends, you're basically just getting one side of the amp. Wire the amp end for +1 +2 as has been described in this thread (fear not, it's SUPER simple to do with just a phillips head screwdriver) and you'll have both sides of the amp working in bridge mode the way it's intended.
Enjoy having twice the power you had before fixing the cable
Enjoy having twice the power you had before fixing the cable
aight, I just fixed the speakon cable - super simple. It all made sense when I actually had it in my hands (didn't when I posted this thread). Now tomorrow I get to test this out, so excited to hear my QSC in its full glory!
Just to make sure, does it matter if the red/black is in the 2+ or the 1+ for the amp side?
Just to make sure, does it matter if the red/black is in the 2+ or the 1+ for the amp side?
I believe it does.
Your +1 should have stayed where it was (it is the positive wire or tip if you were using a 1/4 jack) the negative (-1) needs to be the one moved to the +2 on the amp end.
Also make sure you mark that end of the cable so you don't get it switched around with the amp end in transport.
Your +1 should have stayed where it was (it is the positive wire or tip if you were using a 1/4 jack) the negative (-1) needs to be the one moved to the +2 on the amp end.
Also make sure you mark that end of the cable so you don't get it switched around with the amp end in transport.
Ok it looks like that's how I did it initially. I have on the amp side, +1 (red) and +2 (black). I only adjusted one side, because the other side (cab) was already set to +1 (red) -1 (black). Thanks for the confirmation, please correct me if I'm wrong.
very simple solution. you need more cabs! watts only gets you so far if you don't have enough speakers to disperse it. you have a stereo power amp so you have lots of options. choose wisely. Here is my setup with a 3000 watt stereo power amp delivering 1500 watts into each cab. although one cab at 1500 watts is plenty, adding the second drives it right into the stratosphere in terms of volume. there is no substitute, add more speakers!!! you can run up to 4 -8 ohm cab per stereo side since your amp is rated at 2 ohms, that would definitely do it if you don't mind lugging that much gear around! Or, consider a 810 4 ohm cab on one stereo side and possibly adding another 8 ohm cab like you have on the other stereo side.
At the very least you really need another 8 ohm 410 cab with similar wattage ratings and you can run bridged mono. This is safe as long as you use the correct bridged mono cable ( preferably speakon) and never exceed a 4 ohm limit. I believe this would be the best economical and conservative solution.
Most cabs are rated at RMS ratings which is a average power the cab can handle, but you should look for the peak/program rating which is usually twice the RMS rating. This is where most cabs will produce sound at their fullest. Just besure to leave a little headroom.( example, if a cab is rated 250 watts RMS, the peak is probably 500 watts, then if your amp is rated at 600 watts, then you have 100 watts headroom. Your better off having a little more power than not enough.
Contact BOB LEE on this forum as he is the tech support for QSC audio and he will verify what I'm saying about matching cabs to amps with RMS/peak power ratings.
At the very least you really need another 8 ohm 410 cab with similar wattage ratings and you can run bridged mono. This is safe as long as you use the correct bridged mono cable ( preferably speakon) and never exceed a 4 ohm limit. I believe this would be the best economical and conservative solution.
Most cabs are rated at RMS ratings which is a average power the cab can handle, but you should look for the peak/program rating which is usually twice the RMS rating. This is where most cabs will produce sound at their fullest. Just besure to leave a little headroom.( example, if a cab is rated 250 watts RMS, the peak is probably 500 watts, then if your amp is rated at 600 watts, then you have 100 watts headroom. Your better off having a little more power than not enough.
Contact BOB LEE on this forum as he is the tech support for QSC audio and he will verify what I'm saying about matching cabs to amps with RMS/peak power ratings.
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I love the wall of speakers, but man I would never need that much volume....well at least not yet 
Very nice setup none the less
Very nice setup none the less
Thanks...just something to consider though. if your cab is rated at least 600 watts RMS, you should be able to run bridged mono. You said your cab is 8 ohms so this would make the amp put out 1100 watts. While this may give you a slight increase in volume and headroom, I still believe you really need to add another 8 ohm cab to really get what you are after. When setting ypur preamp and amp , make sure your preamp doesn't start to clip your power amp because at bridged mono power levels you can overload your cab. You seen my setup, I use the limiting section of the compressor to be sure I never exceed the power amps 0db input level and I would recommend the same to you if you are going to run bridged mono. Also follow the advice given about wiring a proper bridged mono cable. Good Luck!
I'm pretty confident that investing time in fixing the cable will give you enough additional volume that you won't need to invest $$$ in a spare cab.
I will know after using the updated cord, I know the cab itself can get me what I want (because it works awesomely with my Mesa 400+), I just needed it to work with my QSC, and I knew somethign was off. Eventually tho...I might be getting another Schroeder 410L - love the cab! Two 8ohm cabs together would give me a 4ohm load and maximum booty shaking bass 
Bob Lee (QSC)
In case you missed it, I work for QSC Audio!
- Jul 3, 2001
- 12,668
- 2,036
- 67
- Disclosures
- Former Technical Communications Developer, QSC Audio
What is the power amp's 0 dB input level, and how do you meter it? Few (if any) power amps have metering on the input.
Bob Lee (QSC)
In case you missed it, I work for QSC Audio!
- Jul 3, 2001
- 12,668
- 2,036
- 67
- Disclosures
- Former Technical Communications Developer, QSC Audio
Bob, thanks for chiming in - I cant wait to get out tonight and rock the rig with the right cable!
Bob Lee (QSC)
In case you missed it, I work for QSC Audio!
- Jul 3, 2001
- 12,668
- 2,036
- 67
- Disclosures
- Former Technical Communications Developer, QSC Audio
Where'd you hook the 3rd wire?
Just kidding; there's no 3rd wire in this instance. Gonna try it out first or just go-fer-broke at the gig?
I run my entire PA rig off of bridged QSC RMX power amps. If you get the gain structure set up properly (not that hard), its a thing of beauty: 3 pairs of flashing yellow lights, green input / ouput LED's on the DriveRack, and not a clipped signal to be found anywhere.
Riis
