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Prototype F4 short scale

Back to the fingerboard...

Wilser: Do you treat cocobolo any special way? I've heard wiping it down with acetone can help for gluing with particularly oily pieces.

I'm more wondering about surface finishes and stuff. I have a fairly nice piece of cocobolo (I've never seen an ugly piece, really.) that is a good size for a fretboard. I'm planning on putting it on a maple neck. Any problems with the oils bleeding and staining the maple.

Also, what about the toxic aspects of it, do you seal it?
 
Back to the fingerboard...

Wilser: Do you treat cocobolo any special way? I've heard wiping it down with acetone can help for gluing with particularly oily pieces.

I'm more wondering about surface finishes and stuff. I have a fairly nice piece of cocobolo (I've never seen an ugly piece, really.) that is a good size for a fretboard. I'm planning on putting it on a maple neck. Any problems with the oils bleeding and staining the maple.

Also, what about the toxic aspects of it, do you seal it?

yes, cocobolo will stain lighter colored woods it's glued to if you're not careful. This will also happen with ebony, ziricote, bloodwood and padauk (that I know of, there are probably lots others. these are all very different woods in terms of the oil content, so I'm not sure the fact that it's oily has anything to do with it). Wipe it down with any good quick evaporating solvent (I prefer naptha, but acetone, denatured alcohol and similar will work just as well ...do NOT use lacquer thinner or mineral spirits!) after you're done with the finish sanding, then carefully seal the lighter colored woods it's glued to with your preferred sealer as a wash coat (Larry has always recommended shellac to me and the waterbased shellac I've been using from target coatings works well and goes on thin).