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Putting ports on the bottom questions

A rectangular port 4" wide by 6.28" tall will give the same area as two 4" round ports. This dimension can be adjusted to fit your cab. For instance, a 2" X 12.56" slot has the same area. For length, I'm sure 6.86" would be a good starting point.

Raf
 
Sorry for my misunderstanding and not expressing myself well. If the area of the port opening and the tuning length is what counts and they remain the same as a round ports then how does this give me a shallower cab? 6.86" of round or 6.86" of slot port just gives me the same depth requirements. My question is about port area.
 
Found these numbers for a slot port:
2.5"X 17.08" 5.04 long -would it work?

These numbers are based on a change in the area of the port opening and a subsequent change in the length from a slot port calculator.
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I have nothing to model this on so I was asking about the functionality of this size port. (which would work for me) how far can I decrease my port area before running into trouble?

Mac needs to get some free modelling software.
or maybe I just need to buy some 1" feet and bottom port. I trust Duke but bgavin and CL400Peavey have scared me.
 
You're loosing too much of the low frequencies because the energy from the port is suppressed.

How is the energy from the port being "suppressed"?

Found these numbers for a slot port:
2.5"X 17.08" 5.04 long -would it work?

The cross-sectional area is plenty, but without knowing the internal volume of your box I can't guess what the tuning frequency would be. And even if you told me, I'm not experienced at taking into account the fact that three of the four sides of your slot port are much longer than the top side. I don't use slot ports; someone who does in their DIY designs would be in a better position to advise you.
 
If bottom cabinet porting was such a great idea, why don't more companies do it? The reason is because it doesn't work very well. You're loosing too much of the low frequencies because the energy from the port is suppressed.
Not if it's built right. Problem is it's a little more involved to build right, and porting anywhere as long as it's not directly behind a speaker works as well and doesn't require extra steps, so most commercial builders don't want to mess with it.
 
I think passive radiator could be a very doable DIY. Instead of playing with port dimensions, added mass to the PR cone will determine box tuning. A frequency generator and a measuring microphone setup (or well trained ears!) go a long way, just like when working with bass reflex designs.
And since we are talking 3015, there are already an enormous DIY crowd to learn from.
 
My wee Trace has a slot... well 2 really!
10" driver.
Trace%20E%20wee.jpg


Trace%20Slot%20wee.jpg
 
Clearly, those math classes in school didn't really resonate with you, did they?

:eyebrow:

We can't all be mathematical geniuses. I'm mathematically-illiterate. Add, subtract; multiply divide – Anything more than that and I turn into a deer staring into headlights. Yet, I still passed mathematics classes and graduated/survived secondary, went on to complete my post-secondary education and manage to function in society and contribute. Imagine that.


I'm with Fdeck on this one... v63, Try Side Porting.
 
If there's sufficient cross-sectional area and geometrical smoothness that turbulence doesn't set in, the only significant result is an extension of the effective port length and therefore a lowering of the tuning frequency. The "slug of air" is fluid enough that it doesn't mind changing direction or shape; any resulting loss of energy is negligible.

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This PDF is Alex Savatti's work, "Maximizing Performance from Loudpspeaker Ports" done while he was at JBL.
It is the 2nd release of his earlier 1998 white paper.
This paper goes into depth on the fluid dynamics of vented boxes, including test setups and extensive test cases.
For those who are math challenged, they will still get get a clear understanding of what is going on.

Adhering to the one diameter spacing guideline keeps the port tuning frequency much more predictable.
Especially so, when not using asymmetric flared vents.
Most DIY'ers use simple ducts, cut to a random length, and "good enough for government work"

Consider a slot port as a squashed round port: If the effective "diameter" is the average of its width and height, there seems to be no ill effects from ignoring the one "diameter" rule of thumb regarding distance to the internal walls of the enclosure.

Area = Height * Width
Dia = ((Area/Pi)^0.5) * 2

Slot ratios exceeding 1:12 become erratic and difficult to predict accurately by calculation.

And the net result of the proximity to these walls is what we might expect - a lowering of the effective tuning frequency (though this isn't the only mechanism at play there).
The slot vent has a length correction factor of 2.227, which is much higher than a simple vent (0.732) due to friction from three of the enclosure walls.
A much shorter slot length is required to provide the same tuning as a simple round vent.
The wild card here, as always, is vent velocity and its associated turbulence.
This reinforces the need to use the largest area (least velocity) possible for the design at hand.

Slot vents are ideal for production environments, where the investment in multiple design/build/test iterations is warranted.
Slots offer the least invasive use of baffle board real estate.
The fEarful is the end result of these iterations.

Passive Radiators can work well, but radically increase the cost and weight of the project.
Due to the amount of tuning mass required, a pair (read: $$) of horizontally-mounted opposing PRs is required to keep the cab from walking about.
Think BMW opposing cylinders for perfect balance.
Ideal performance is realized when each PR is the next size up, i.e. 12" PR for a 10" woofer.
PRs have a signature sound, and a definite notch in bass performance.

Last, one must remember this is an electric bass cab, used in a performance level environment.
Nobody is going to hear the difference between an assymetric flared port, and a hole cut in the box.
 
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This PDF is Alex Savatti's work, "Maximizing Performance from Loudpspeaker Ports" done while he was at JBL.
It is the 2nd release of his earlier 1998 white paper.
This paper goes into depth on the fluid dynamics of vented boxes, including test setups and extensive test cases.

Excellent paper, I have an "analog" copy on my shelf. I often apply two of the techniques supported by the paper, namely flared ports and the use of two ports vertically straddling the magnet for chimney effect cooling.

I didn't re-read the whole thing but skimmed it and didn't see anything specifically addressing downfiring ports. Probably the ideal geometry would be something like figure 10 or figure 11.

The slot vent has a length correction factor of 2.227, which is much higher than a simple vent (0.732) due to friction from three of the enclosure walls.

Thank you very much! I wasn't aware that there was an established slot length correction factor. I would have expected the correction factor to be somewhat variable, changing as the aspect ratio (width divided by height) changes, but maybe the math takes that into account when you actually apply it.
 
Matrix design ports (filled with tiny tubes, like straws) can also be used to increase the friction. However, one can always question the "real life value" of certain designs as any distinct advantage should make them appear in the competitive pro audio scene, which most of these designs never do...
 
Matrix ports are an outgrowth of the Variovent designed by ScanSpeak in 60s and marketed by Dynaco.
My Dad had a Dynaco system when I was a kid.
The Variovent is a gray area between Sealed and Vented.

They are essentially a sealed box with a controllable leak.
Vance Dickason mentions them in his books.

The applications where I've seen them used are Sealed types (EBP <= 50), rather than vented.
This reduces the single impedance curve of the sealed box, and makes the box appear larger, similar to over stuffing with FiberFill.
Back then, a sealed box usually sounded a whole lot better than a vented boom box.

I have a LAB12 project in work (EBP=56).
It would be interesting to see if one could shrink the sealed B2 from 1.78 cubic feet / 50.5 liters down to a smaller box using a Variovent.

Back on topic, IMO it is important to keep the focus on the OP cab being used for electric bass in a live environment.
Live performance is very different from optimal audiophile listening conditions.