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Question re flat-wound string gauge v. action height

wiscoaster

wiscoaster

Mar 28, 2021
1,056
1,408
Wisconsin
#1
Please help educate a bass newbie: I have a new bass that I want to replace the out-of-box round-wound strings with flat-wounds. To avoid fret buzz I've had to raise the action higher than I prefer on this particular bass. I'm thinking that when I replace the strings, if I replace them with heavier gauge strings I can lower the height without getting fret buzz. My logic tells me the heavier gauge doesn't vibrate as far for the same tone and therefore is less likely to contact the frets. Is this the case? Does it make sense? Or is the one totally unrelated to the other? Thanks for your help!!

PS: the bass is an Ibanez Artcore AFB200 hollow-body short-scale in case it makes any difference.
 
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#2
How much relief do you have on-board? A decent set-up works wonders but I'll leave it at that as I have no practical experience with the various short-scales. You may want to search in "Basses"...there's quite a fan base and they'll be glad to share which strings work best in this situation. Good luck with the project!

Riis
 
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#3
In my experience flats allow for a lower action but that doesn't matter much.

Set up YOUR bass and see what happens.

I like to follow the TRAIN method:
tune
relief
action
intonation
noodle

If you are able to work on the nut then I would do it after the above steps but only with the proper files.
 
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#4
Zooberwerx said:
How much relief do you have on-board?
Click to expand...
Too much!! I don't think there was any torque at all on the truss rod. I had to tighten it a fair amount to take out excessive curve. I think I've also got one or more high frets above #12. I'm just using a straight edge laid along the frets to sight-gauge it. Don't have one of those notched thingies.
 
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#5
andare said:
tune
relief
action
intonation
noodle
Click to expand...
OK, I'm guessing the "noodle" part relates to my best judgment, which based on my inexperience doing the other four, doesn't do much for me. The principles of doing a setup aren't hard to understand. The actions involved aren't particularly difficult. The tools involved can be make-do. But there's a whole level of intuition, craft and artistry here gained only by experience along with knowledge that are both WAY over my level. Not to fear ... I like to learn how to do things on my own, but if I can't get it, I'll definitely take it to a professional to get it done right. ;)
 
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#9
OK, the reason I posted the OP was to get some feel for whether heavier gauge strings would help in the fret buzz department. One bugaboo with this particular short-scale bass is that the usual short-scale strings are too short. I have to use medium-scale strings, and pickings are pretty slim for variey in that length department. I put on some lighter weight (D'adarrio chrome 100) flat-wounds, which are OK, but don't solve the buzz problem. I found some heavier tape wounds (Rotosound 115) online and have them coming from Sweetwater. I've no experience with that type so it'll be fun putting them on to see what they do.
 
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#10
wiscoaster said:
OK, I'm guessing the "noodle" part relates to my best judgment, which based on my inexperience doing the other four, doesn't do much for me. The principles of doing a setup aren't hard to understand. The actions involved aren't particularly difficult. The tools involved can be make-do. But there's a whole level of intuition, craft and artistry here gained only by experience along with knowledge that are both WAY over my level. Not to fear ... I like to learn how to do things on my own, but if I can't get it, I'll definitely take it to a professional to get it done right. ;)
Click to expand...
I don't see what artistry is involved in turning a few screws. Don't be afraid to experiment. If you get buzz in the first frets you need more relief, if it's above the 12th raise the action. Random buzzes all over the neck are caused by uneven frets. Leave fretwork to a pro.
Noodle means play the bass and see how it feels, check for buzzes etc.

For fret and nut work I agree that experience is important.
 
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#11
Generally, heavier strings will have a higher aggregate tension than a lighter set, and flatwounds generally are higher tensioned vs. the same gages in roundwounds. Not always the case (I'm sure I'll get someone quoting tension tables shortly . . . . .), but more often than not.

That higher tension will want to induce more relief ('bow') in the neck and these buzzing issues would need to be addressed after you change to whatever strings you're going to use; it's a waste of time to set up for what strings you have now unless you're going to play them for a while. So if it were me, I'd install the flatwounds, and then do your setup.
 
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#14
wiscoaster said:
'Kay, thanks, shows what a noob I am to the bass culture.
I did learn how to play a guitar in 1965, though. :)
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I took the TRAIN acronym from Ron Thorn from the Fender Custom Shop - it's not like it's common knowledge.
Dude, you learned in 1965, can't imagine what it was like to hear Jimi for the first time.
I started guitar in 1991 and got my first bass 6 years ago so still a noob. However I don;t trust local techs so I've had to learn to set up and fix my gear. Mine were just suggestions, there are real pros here.
 
#16
andare said:
...can't imagine what it was like to hear Jimi for the first time....
Click to expand...
You got me thinking, and you know what? I can't even remember. Honestly, he didn't get much airplay on top 40 AM radio, at least here in the US. (No underground FM in a small Midwestern town). I'm guessing the first I remember is "All Along the Watchtower" and I think that got airplay mostly because it was a Dylan cover.
 
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#18
String tension opposes the neck. It’s common to need minor adjustments to truss rod or bridge when you change to strings with different tension. Personally I’d install the strings then check the neck relief. Then the bridge if needed.
Then you can get noodles if you’re hungry. Rainy day ramen sounds good.
 
#20
When you put your flats on just let the neck adjust for 20 minutes, stress adjust, ya'know, be wood. The guy from stewmac says to message the neck if you have a personal relationship with your short bass :smug:
You'll then probably want to tighten the truss rod a touch for good measure. Flats have more tension than rounds. From there I always start by adjusting the truss rod. You can tell a good truss rod setup by how much you can dig in between the 2nd and 6th fret (or around there) and not got clang and rang.

Adjust your saddles accordingly.
 

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