There is also a program out there (forget the name) that helps you determine cabinet interior volume and port size depending on your speaker selection and desired cabinet tuning. It is free, someone remind me, the steel trap is rusty.
As for series vs parallel. Well other than the impedance comments...
Here is a site with numerous cabinet wiring diagrams:
http://www.colomar.com/Shavano/4x12wiring.html
It has a 4x12 with crossover and tweeter example that you should be able to transmogrify to your needs.
I will say this most 2x10 enclosures the 10's are wired in parallel (well most any 2 x ???'s are, and 4x???'s are series + parallel, etc). Typically if your desired net impedance is 4 ohms you would select two 8 ohm drivers.
Now the one other difference between series and parallel is what happens on failure. If a speaker was to die/disconnect both speakers in a series connection are dead, no sound. In a parallel configuration the surviving speaker will continue to work. However taking a two 8 ohm driver in parallel example the result would also be the cabinets overall impedance would now jump to 8 ohms as it is only going through the one driver. Theoretically though it would still be getting the same power as the impedance change counteracts the voltage jump. In series there is no sound obviously but in essence there is an ohm jump there, this time to infinity (and beyond).
Now if a speaker was to fail in a way that it short circuited itself where the speaker itself dropped to 0 ohms across it's connection, you would have an ohm drop (by half in a 2x??? example). That is for both parallel and series. Honest truth, I can't say I know of that happening much though. However a short in your wiring could. Especially in a bass cabinet I would recommend shielding and securing all wiring well due to vibration.
Now on another note. You could in theory build a cab with a series parallel switch, not vary common but I debated this once. I was at one point considering rewiring my 2x15 like this with two 4 ohm speakers. It would have been two inputs and a selector knob. The options would have been "normal" speakers in parallel at 2 ohms, series (8 ohm), and dual where each input fed a different speaker, each input 4ohm. Just a crazy idea I had.
As for the DIY approach. If you feel daring and you want to do it because YOU did it, and have an idea you cannot purchase, or whatever, great. Just never do the DIY path with stuff like this to save money. The first outing rarely does and you cannot get the bulk discount on parts major manufacturers do.
Ken