• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Quick Connect for Mis-matched Amps In Biamp Config?

Zooberwerx

Zooberwerx

Gold Supporting Member
Dec 21, 2002
23,315
28,110
68
Virginia Beach, VA
#1
First, the big lie...this is a tri-amped configuration but we're only dealing the with low (1450 watts) and high (2450 watts) powered amps feeding the mains. I'd like to tie in channels A from each amp via 4 conductor 14 gauge cable (same holds true for channels B) to power the mids and highs separately. However, I'd like to set this up in such a way that speaker cables can be quickly connected / disconnected without disrupting the wiring harness. Here's one idea but I'm interested in hearing more:

1) Jury rig a pseudo patch bay with two (L & R) 4-pole Speakons.

2) Connect speaker wire to 1450's terminal strip / channel A and connect to (L) Speakon's +2, -2. This will provide 285 watts for the highs.

3) Connect speaker wire to 2450's terminal strip / channel A and connect to (L) Speakons +1, -1. This will provide 450 watts for the mids.

4) Repeat above steps for channels B and (R) Speakon.

5) Connect 4-conductor speaker cables to each Speakon and run to respective speakers.

In all fairness, I could simply run 4-conductor cables from two separate 2450 amps (the A channel carries both A & B signals) but I really don't want to feed 450 watts into a 6" mid driver and HF horn.

If you can offer suggestions as to "streamlining" the project, please let me know.

Riis
 
#2
It is not clear to me what you are trying to do.

Are we talking about two biamped tops that you want to run highs off of one amp and lows off of a different, larger amp? So amp 1 left -> highs left box, amp 1 right -> highs right box, amp 2 left -> lows left box, amp 2 right -> lows right box?

That's more or less what I've got going on, everything is on a panel in the amp rack. 4 pole speakon jacks on the front of the panels that are wired to the amps internally. I also have outputs to the subs on the same panel.
 
#3
projectMalamute said:
It is not clear to me what you are trying to do.

Are we talking about two biamped tops that you want to run highs off of one amp and lows off of a different, larger amp? So amp 1 left -> highs left box, amp 1 right -> highs right box, amp 2 left -> lows left box, amp 2 right -> lows right box?

That's more or less what I've got going on, everything is on a panel in the amp rack. 4 pole speakon jacks on the front of the panels that are wired to the amps internally. I also have outputs to the subs on the same panel.
Click to expand...

Spot on...and I like your description better than mine.

Riis
 
#4
Zooberwerx said:
...but I really don't want to feed 450 watts into a 6" mid driver and HF horn.
Click to expand...

You actually WON'T be feeding 450w into those drivers unless you crank everything up and there's enough content present to cause the amp to deliver that much power.

Not knowing what speakers and amps you're using, I can only state that headroom is a good thing.
As long as you don't let any morons run your gear, having an excess of available watts is preferred over not enough, by far.
Simplified wiring and easier setup is also good.
 
#5
I'd build an IO panel for the rack, just jacks on a 2 or 3 RU steel plate. Put all the inputs and outputs on that, at a show you just plug stuff in instead of fiddling around in the back of the rack with a flashlight.

Something like this(not mine, just something Google found me):
Misc033.jpg
 
#6
KeithAlanK said:
You actually WON'T be feeding 450w into those drivers unless you crank everything up and there's enough content present to cause the amp to deliver that much power.

Not knowing what speakers and amps you're using, I can only state that headroom is a good thing.
As long as you don't let any morons run your gear, having an excess of available watts is preferred over not enough, by far.
Simplified wiring and easier setup is also good.
Click to expand...

Good points. Fact is I'd rather invest a 1450 and 2450, as opposed to two 2450's, and do the extra wiring. I'm using two Carvin LS1503's as mains.

There's only one moron running the gear and that's your's truly. Be afraid....be very afraid!

Riis
 
#9
Don't go cheap on this, the suggestions so far are the best way to go for the price.

Use the binding posts on the back of the amps, wire it up to the rack mounted panel, done. It will actually cost you a lot less than you think, a 1U prepunched plate (Middle Atlantic UNI-1) is only $21 from parts-express.com. Sounds like you have everything else you need.. (don't need to wire up powercons and all that if you don't want to).

If you label things right with a nice neat panel, you might even be able to allow someone to help you without your gear getting fried ;)


Or I guess you could get out the electrical tape and make a mess out of some adapter cables that will give you nothing but trouble from day 1.. :crying:


I can go over all the details if you want and even mock up something to take pictures of, if you need.

If you have something like:
1. A DriveRack in the same rack as the amps
2. You're running stereo lines in
3. You have 2 amps like you said running A from both amps to one side, and B to the other side through 2 4-conductor speakons.
4. You want to have a powercon for power in

The total cost minus wire is: $43.46 for all the connectors and 1U plate for the rack end of things.. and you should be able to run your 4C straight up to the LS1503's

Re-read and it seems left the subs out to simplify? (the have their own 2C I guess)
 
#10
JackANSI said:
Don't go cheap on this, the suggestions so far are the best way to go for the price.

Use the binding posts on the back of the amps, wire it up to the rack mounted panel, done. It will actually cost you a lot less than you think, a 1U prepunched plate (Middle Atlantic UNI-1) is only $21 from parts-express.com. Sounds like you have everything else you need.. (don't need to wire up powercons and all that if you don't want to).

If you label things right with a nice neat panel, you might even be able to allow someone to help you without your gear getting fried ;)


Or I guess you could get out the electrical tape and make a mess out of some adapter cables that will give you nothing but trouble from day 1..

I can go over all the details if you want and even mock up something to take pictures of, if you need.
Click to expand...

No, the wood panel was going to be the only shortcut but the pre-punched plate looks promising. The heavy duty 4 pole Speakons have quick-connect terminals so no soldering is required. I also have the option of using the screw-type terminals on the reverse of each amp as opposed to the binding posts. Thanks for the pics offer; let me get back to you. If the lights dim along the eastern seaboard, you'll know something has gone terribly wrong!

Riis
 
#13
Zooberwerx said:
That was my next question....how do you mount these things? The partsexpress pic wasn't crystal clear.

Riis
Click to expand...

On the rectangular part of a speakon jack/mic jack/powercon jack there are two fairly standardized holes on opposite corners. There are matching prepunched holes on most prepunched panels..

It can get a bit tricky if you don't space the jacks appropriately but you can get 2 4C speakons side by side if you have tiny fingers or a needle nose..

But I've never had to drill a prepunched panel for 2C, 4C, or powercon.
 
#14
I had one handy from an older install, its a crappy cellphone pic (from the backside of the panel), but you get the idea:

4901579203_5d6a5e87ec.png


Who knows why they don't include pictures like this, you can bearly see the punched-but-not-removed parts and I set it down at such an angle that they looked the most prominent.
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back