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quick question about castors

jjl5590

Inactive
Mar 28, 2008
406
0
London, UK
hi,

basically i got two questions, so here goes the first one.

if i have 4 castors that say they can take 70kg each, does this mean that when i screw all 4 castors to the bottom of my cab, is the maximum total load still 70kg? Or do I add up all the castors, making a total maximum load of 280kg?

thanks and heres the second question:

i just bought some castors, but they did not come with any screws. these are the ones:
Invalid Link Removed
i need to attach them to a warwick 211 pro plywood cab. i cant open the cab up to thread bolts onto the screws, so the screws are just gonna have to stay in without bolts somehow. anyway here are the specs of the castors:

75mm Light Duty swivel Castor Grey Rubber Wheel Ref: PLM75GRT
Overall Height : 98mm
Wheel Size : 75mm
Wheel Type : Grey Rubber Plain Bearing
Load Rating : 70kg
Fixing Plate Size : 60 x 60mm
Bolting Centres : 48/38 x 48/38mm
Bolt Size : 6mm

can anyone point me in the right direction for some screws that will work good with them?

many thanks guys!
 
280 kg. Don't know if I'd load anything up to the rating, but 280 kg is a LOT of gear.

I wouldn't screw wheels into a cab of mine, even my crappiest 4x10. They can rattle. Instead I'd make a wheeled dolly that the cab would fit on. Some latchdown straps if needed. That method has it's downsides, but an upside is you can now use the dolly to help lug subwoofers et cetera.

I like 4" (~100 mm) wheels better than 3". 4s seem to surf nearly all the bumps I encounter while 3s get hung up every now & then. 3s still beat those foolish 1.5" castors you find on some gear.
 
I have never had casters/wheels rattle unless the cab was turned on it's side and the wheels were hanging free. Even then a bit of duct tape prevented the rattling.

Putting casters on a board instead is a good option that opens up use for other gear as well.
 
The first thing I do with every cab I buy is take off the worthless wheels that come with the thing and screw 4" wheels directly to the bottom.

It's nice to be able to hop a curb, crack in the sidewalk or doorway threshold without worrying if the little factory wheels are going to get stuck and rip out of the bottom.

They also help a good bit to decouple from a boomy stage.

I've never had an issue with noise even if the box is on it's side and the wheels are hanging.

Go to the hardware store and get the biggest honken self tapping screw you can find and don't get all emotional about putting a screw in a box. A cab is just a tool of the trade.

IMHO
 
ok well ive attached all 4 castors, but because the cab is not very deep, if a bit of weight is applied to the front top of the cab, the whole cab falls forward - something i dont want to happen with another cab and an amp on top of it!
so, im thinking of unattching the front 2 castors and replacing them with 2 castors that have a built-in brake. do you think that will do the trick?

EDIT:

oh no i think ive got a far bigger problem now.
i was just playing through my rig and i noticed the speakers (or at least one of them) was crackling up a bit. then i remembered as i was drilling the holes for the screws, the drill bit kept getting caught up in the white wool that is inside the cab. i thought nothing of it, but now im starting to think i might have drilled into one of the speakers!
i sure hope not! lol
 
ok well ive attached all 4 castors, but because the cab is not very deep, if a bit of weight is applied to the front top of the cab, the whole cab falls forward - something i dont want to happen with another cab and an amp on top of it!
so, im thinking of unattching the front 2 castors and replacing them with 2 castors that have a built-in brake. do you think that will do the trick?

EDIT:

oh no i think ive got a far bigger problem now.
i was just playing through my rig and i noticed the speakers (or at least one of them) was crackling up a bit. then i remembered as i was drilling the holes for the screws, the drill bit kept getting caught up in the white wool that is inside the cab. i thought nothing of it, but now im starting to think i might have drilled into one of the speakers!
i sure hope not! lol

I don't think you drilled into the speakers, but probably pulled off the dampening material inside...which might have gotten tangled up with one of the speaker wires and pulled one loose a bit.

Take the speakers out one at a time and check the wiring is connected solidly to the speaker terminals. Then also staple the dampening material back onto the sides.

You didn't need to drill into the cab for the screws much, if at all, as the screws are pretty much self tapping.
 
Which cab are you working on?
Where are the casters placed on the cab? How far from the edge?
If the casters are placed as close a possible in the corners, the cab shouldn't be easier to tip over, IME.
 
ok well it seems it was the compressor on my zoom b2.1u that was overloading the tweeter on the cab and making it buzz. i dont know why it was doing that, as the clip light was not coming on, and it was only on volume #1. oh well, at least i know its not a broken speaker!