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radius block vs straight edge (stewmac type)

stuntbass77

stuntbass77

Nov 6, 2007
1,806
1,208
#1
I have a "frankenjazz" bass that I need to level the frets on. I was wondering how many of you use a straight edge over radius blocks. I did do a epoxy job on a warmoth neck a few years back with a Home Depot aluminum straight edge with sandpaper and a lot of time going over the neck. I used this method because of the compound radius warmoth uses on there necks. I was lucky it was a success as it was my first time doing any thing like this. I have never leveled my own frets, but after the success of my epoxy job I would like to try moving to frets. I do not want to have to buy a new block every time I want to work on one of my many other basses (they all have a different radius anyway). The neck I want to work on does not have a compound radius (thankfully as it makes things easier). I wonder how many of you use a bar over a radius block to do this type of job. Will I really get better results using a radius block. Keep in mind that this is not an expensive neck so I do not want to buy a aluminum radius beam for just this radius, as I would not use it again.
 
#3
Using a radius block to level your frets can work, however, do not expect to get good action as if you would level the frets in a conical radius, meaning that there "string paths" when leveling with a flat block, which is beneficial for lower action. The illusion of multiple flat paths is taken away from the naked eye, when recrowned.
 
#4
Rickett Customs said:
Using a radius block to level your frets can work, however, do not expect to get good action as if you would level the frets in a conical radius, meaning that there "string paths" when leveling with a flat block, which is beneficial for lower action. The illusion of multiple flat paths is taken away from the naked eye, when recrowned.
Click to expand...

^^^this

Very well said Grasshopper......LMAO:bassist::p
 
#6
Thanks for the advice. Am i correct in that I should sand with a beam in direction of the strings. If so I would think once level I should go back with the beam side to side to remove any lines ( I do not have a crowning file, and is the reason I would do it this way). If this is wrong, please let me know. Thanks for answering my question.
 
#7
+1 to using the beam, i'm not sure i could use radius blocks these days. besides, for a given radius, the block will always take more off the sides than you intend, unless you have it riding in some kind of rigid track.

anyway, you shouldn't get "lines", because you shouldn't be sanding in one place on the board to create a flat spot. the beam always stays parallel to the string lie it's on, but you're always continually working it from one edge to the other as you sand. (you're also occasionally checking the start and end radii to make sure you're still where you want to be.)
 
#8
Same here. I have a nice set of the Stew-Mac radius blocks that I bought about 20 years ago. In the last 19 years, I've used them maybe once or twice. I cut the radius on my fingerboards with a router in a special fixture, and I do all sanding and truing up with flat blocks and beams.

The radius blocks look like a good idea, and are appealing to beginners. But in practice, they just don't work very well. I mean, back then I spent good money on those blocks, and I tried hard to make them work, but I gave up on them. There are faster, easier, better ways to get the job done.

The biggest problem with them is that there is too much surface area of sandpaper trying to grab at one time, with not much way for the dust to get out. So, the sandpaper clogs up really fast, no matter what kind you use. The only way that they work somewhat is with really coarse paper, like 100 grit. That can help you cut a radius on a fingerboard, if you have no other method available. But it's slow.
 
#9
Pro techs don't use them for leveling frets. Or, as others have mentioned, for much else. They're too short. Long, thin beams are quicker and more accurate. Because they are thin, they have less contact, cutting down on drag. That removes chatter. Plus it's easier to see the results as you're working.

The problem with radius blocks, besides not being able to monitor progress, is that it takes a steady hand to keep the block centered down the middle of the neck. If the block is canted for a few strokes it changes the shape of the frets. That means reworking the length of the frets to correct a user error.

Probably the best use for them creating a radius for a fingerboard. Even starting with sixty grit, it takes a lot of effort. It is still critical to make sure that the block stays centered on the workpiece. Mechanical/machine methods are easier to use and produce more consistent results.
 
#10
Bruce Johnson said:
Same here. I have a nice set of the Stew-Mac radius blocks that I bought about 20 years ago. In the last 19 years, I've used them maybe once or twice. I cut the radius on my fingerboards with a router in a special fixture, and I do all sanding and truing up with flat blocks and beams.

The radius blocks look like a good idea, and are appealing to beginners. But in practice, they just don't work very well. I mean, back then I spent good money on those blocks, and I tried hard to make them work, but I gave up on them. There are faster, easier, better ways to get the job done.

The biggest problem with them is that there is too much surface area of sandpaper trying to grab at one time, with not much way for the dust to get out. So, the sandpaper clogs up really fast, no matter what kind you use. The only way that they work somewhat is with really coarse paper, like 100 grit. That can help you cut a radius on a fingerboard, if you have no other method available. But it's slow.
Click to expand...

I use a flat beam also for leveling, thanks to Bruce's advice, and it worked much better than the shorter radius block from Stewmac
 
#11
i'll use the short radius blocks when doing a compound radius refret; i sand my starting and ending radii into the ends of the board, then use the 2 foot beam to "connect" the two curves.
 
#12
Good info here, thanks to all who provided!

Haven't done a lot of fret levels but I've taken my time and done pretty good on the ones I have. Just finishing up the Tru-oiling on an Allpart J neck and was going to level it next week. I had gotten a radius block to use but you guys have talked me out of it, I'll use my 16" Stewmac leveler.
 

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