Random Questions

[HaMMerHeD]

While planning my build and practicing techniques, I have come up with a few questions for the more experienced frequenters of the LC. Diving right in...

For side-dot markers, I am considering using 1/16" aluminum rod. I would drill the 1/16" hole, set the rod in with CA glue, saw it off just proud of the fingerboard edge, then sand it smooth. Any glaring flaws with this plan? (I'm considering using 1/8" rod for the fingerboard dots, starting at the 12th position. It's a fretless board, so there will be no "normal" position markers.)

I have selected Hipshot Ultralight Tuners with a 1/2" shaft. This requires an 11/16" bore in the headstock through which to mount the tuner. As 11/16" drill bits go, is a paddle bit sufficient? Or would something like this DeWalt bit be preferable?

Has anyone here used (or does anyone regularly use) LMI's fingerboard radiusing service? It costs just $9, and they say that only a finish sanding will be necessary after the board is cut to size and mounted. It seems like a cost-effectice solution for one-off boards, as it is less than half the cost of a radiused sanding block.

LMI is sadly out of stock (they say until 5/31) for the .25x4x42" purpleheart lamination pieces I was planning to use for my neck. They do, however, have the same dimension in wenge. The question is: Is wenge more or less desirable than purpleheart for neck lamination purpose, or does it make a difference at all? I would prefer purpleheart because of the color, but I can live with wenge.

How thick does the neck heel need to be? I am using ez-lok 303 stainless steel threaded inserts, and they are 1/2" long. Thus, I was planning on installing them into 1/2" deep holes in the neck, so the end of the insert will be flush with the back of the neck. The machine screws I purchased to go with them are 1.5" 303 stainless screws, so they will have about 1" (including the screw head) of length outside the neck. I can cut them shorter if I need to, but I'm not sure how much meat I need in the neck heel to make sure it it retains its strength.

Thanks in advance. Sorry if these are stupid questions, but us stupid wannabe builders have to start somewhere.

 

[Rickett Customs]

While planning my build and practicing techniques, I have come up with a few questions for the more experienced frequenters of the LC. Diving right in...

Ok, I'm Game

For side-dot markers, I am considering using 1/16" aluminum rod. I would drill the 1/8" hole, set the rod in with CA glue, saw it off just proud of the fingerboard edge, then sand it smooth. Any glaring flaws with this plan? (I'm considering using 1/8" rod for the fingerboard dots, starting at the 12th position. It's a fretless board, so there will be no "normal" position markers.)

If you're using 1/16" dia brass, correct me if i'm wrong, but a 1/16" dia hole would be a bit more closer than an 1/8" dia hole.......

1/8" dia rod will work for the fretboard, it'll be a bit small though, but work nonetheless...

I have selected Hipshot Ultralight Tuners with a 1/2" shaft. This requires an 11/16" bore in the headstock through which to mount the tuner. As 11/16" drill bits go, is a paddle bit sufficient? Or would something like this DeWalt bit be preferable?

First question, are you using a drillpress, or do you have access to one?
If so, a paddle bit will work, but i'd take it slow...... A forstner bit (or a "bradpoint", if you can find one that size) will work better than a paddle bit (imo, ime)

Has anyone here used (or does anyone regularly use) LMI's fingerboard radiusing service? It costs just $9, and they say that only a finish sanding will be necessary after the board is cut to size and mounted. It seems like a cost-effectice solution for one-off boards, as it is less than half the cost of a radiused sanding block.

It's all in how you look at it, do you plan on getting this done every time by LMI? This will limit your selection of fretboards.....Another note worthy thing from LMI:

"Unfortunately we are unable to radius either Bloodwood or Maple (rock and birdseye) fingerboards. We use a shaper/molder type tool to radius our boards and the grain of bloodwood tears out when attempting to radius it."

Beyond this, If you ever wanted to make your own fretboards, you will need to diversify your toolset (believe me, you'll be better off with some more tools )

LMI is sadly out of stock (they say until 5/31) for the .25x4x42" purpleheart lamination pieces I was planning to use for my neck. They do, however, have the same dimension in wenge. The question is: Is wenge more or less desirable than purpleheart for neck lamination purpose, or does it make a difference at all? I would prefer purpleheart because of the color, but I can live with wenge.

This right here is another good reason to obtain some of your own tools........you will governed by LMI, for what you can do....Convenient, yes. Limited, Absolutely. Gotta weigh it out, LMI, or "nah, I can make that"

How thick does the neck heel need to be? I am using ez-lok 303 stainless steel threaded inserts, and they are 1/2" long. Thus, I was planning on installing them into 1/2" deep holes in the neck, so the end of the insert will be flush with the back of the neck. The machine screws I purchased to go with them are 1.5" 303 stainless screws, so they will have about 1" (including the screw head) of length outside the neck. I can cut them shorter if I need to, but I'm not sure how much meat I need in the neck heel to make sure it it retains its strength.

Well, this all depends on how thick you make your fretboard, is it +/-1/4"?
For a 1/4" fretboard, anywhere from 3/4 to 4/4 is a good start, for the neck material alone (without the fretboard). Then again, this all depends on what sort of hardware, that you're using and how deep you will be making the neck pocket, so there are many variables, so it's not so "black and white".
As long as you've got enough room for the threads, sometimes the bolts can be cut to size, so that they fit well......Also keep in mind, if they're machine bolts, you'll need to make room to countersink them a bit.....

Thanks in advance. Sorry if these are stupid questions, but us stupid wannabe builders have to start somewhere.

People who are stupid "wannabe" builders, are the ones that don't ask questions and are doomed to make the mistakes that others have already done and I'm sure there will be some others to come along and give their POV to these questions, so I don't consider these stupid questions

 

[HaMMerHeD]

Oh...I meant I'd drill a 1/16" hole for the 1/16" rod, and a 1/8" hole for the 1/18" rod. I don't want the dots to be big. I like aluminum because it is bright and reflective.

I'd love to buy my own resawing and thicknessing tools (and that is a fairly distant plan), but for now I am limited to what stock I can buy online.

I do have a drill press. A forstner is something I hadn't thought of for the tuner holes. Thanks.

I am really waffling about whether or not to pay them to radius the board for me. It would be nice to be able to eliminate a step, but as I'd have to finish sand and taper the fingerboard anyway, it doesn't seem like that much work has been eliminated. It also seems like clamping would be made easier if I bought the board flat, and radiused it after it was glued and tapered.

The bolts I am using will be anchored in the body with Stemac's neck bolt ferrules, which will have a 4mm countersink.

The fingerboard will be roughly 1/4" thick, and I'm thinking of cutting the pocket deep enough that bottom edge of the fingerboard sits about 1/8" above the edge of the body, but that's just because both my current basses are built approximately that way. My current plan is for the neck/fingerboard sandwich to be 1" thick at the 24th position, so that'd make the neck pocket about 5/8" deep.

 

[Dirk Diggler]

Right on Rickett Customs! +1

The only thing I could add is I tend to think of Wenge and Purpleheart as an absolute must in my neck thru builds. In my experience they are very exchangeable with their density and strengths. But I truly like using both along with some nice hard maple.

Now working with them is a whole different story, each have their quirks. Oh yeah and of course the color difference of purple and chocolate black.

Cheers,
Dirk

 

[Rickett Customs]

Dirk, You're not lying man, there hasn't been a single time that I've worked with Wenge that

1) I didn't get a splinter or 5 or 6.....

2) The urge to smoke a cigarette (man that stuff smells like tobacco........ i quit smoking 2 years ago......

Splinters with purpleheart too....

Now working with them is a whole different story, each have their quirks. Oh yeah and of course the color difference of purple and chocolate black.

Cheers,
Dirk

 

[HaMMerHeD]

Right on Rickett Customs! +1

The only thing I could add is I tend to think of Wenge and Purpleheart as an absolute must in my neck thru builds. In my experience they are very exchangeable with their density and strengths. But I truly like using both along with some nice hard maple.

Now working with them is a whole different story, each have their quirks. Oh yeah and of course the color difference of purple and chocolate black.

Cheers,
Dirk

I had been thinking of a 7-piece lamination. It would be:

.75" maple
.25" purpleheart
.25" maple
.25" wenge
.25" maple
.25" purpleheart
.75" maple

But I fear that may be a bit overboard for a 4-string bass. And now that I can't get purpleheart easily and timely in just the right size, it would just be a bunch of maple and wenge. So for now, the plan is:

.75" maple
.25" wenge
.75" maple
.25" wenge
.75" maple

Which should still be plenty strong and look good.

 

[Blind Dog]

For side-dot markers, I am considering using 1/16" aluminum rod. I would drill the 1/16" hole, set the rod in with CA glue, saw it off just proud of the fingerboard edge, then sand it smooth. Any glaring flaws with this plan? (I'm considering using 1/8" rod for the fingerboard dots, starting at the 12th position. It's a fretless board, so there will be no "normal" position markers.)

I used copper rod just as you describe and I am going to replace it because it is not as visible as contrasting colors. Depending on the level of polish and the lighting the metal markers can disappear on you in stage lighting. I won't do it again.

 

[HaMMerHeD]

I used copper rod just as you describe and I am going to replace it because it is not as visible as contrasting colors. Depending on the level of polish and the lighting the metal markers can disappear on you in stage lighting. I won't do it again.

Hmm. Well...I'm using ebony for my fingerboard, so I think the contrast will work. Good food for thought though..thanks.

 

[Son of Magni]

I use aluminum or brass rod and my process is like this.

Drill all the holes with 1/16 drill bit. Then snip a piece of rod about 2 inches long, de-burr the end of the rod with a file (takes about 2 seconds) then tap it into the hole with a small mallet until I feel it bottom out. Snip it off. Then just repeat, de-burr, tap in, snip. No glue is needed, they won't fall out.

Then I use a file to shave the snipped of ends down even with the fingerboard.

 

[Rickett Customs]

Keep in mind, this is just a pet peeve of mine...... Laminate "runoffs", hate 'em....

Example: If your laminates stay within the width of the nut and the outer pieces are continuous from one end to the other, there's no runoff. This can also be remedied by taking the center lam and taper it from wide (neck pocket end or back of the body, if it's NT) and narrow at the headstock, then the laminates are continuous.......


Again, this is just my pet peeve, but I think (IMO) they are much better looking and more thought was put into them, that's all....... Just a thought.

I had been thinking of a 7-piece lamination. It would be:

.75" maple
.25" purpleheart
.25" maple
.25" wenge
.25" maple
.25" purpleheart
.75" maple

But I fear that may be a bit overboard for a 4-string bass. And now that I can't get purpleheart easily and timely in just the right size, it would just be a bunch of maple and wenge. So for now, the plan is:

.75" maple
.25" wenge
.75" maple
.25" wenge
.75" maple

Which should still be plenty strong and look good.

 

[Grant Bass]

im with you on the runoff; Conklin does that; and imo ruins the whole instrument from an an aesthetic pov; i would say i sometimes give them a pass on the runout lams that are the same species as the fingerboard (ie purpleheart board and ph outer laminate) it looks kinda cool; but i mean really! for 4-5K i think they should taper them!

 

[HaMMerHeD]

Well the nut is 1 5/8", and the alternating laminations are no more than 1.25", so there won't be any runoff. I don't like that so much either.

 

[Musiclogic]

also remember to go to the Crafts store and get some "Brass Lacquer" to dab on those dots if you don't want to be cleaning them every month to return the shine.

 

[FBB Custom]

I think OP says he is going to use aluminum, not brass. Should work fine. Don't drill oversized.

I agree with Rickett, don't mess around with a spade bit. Get a brad point. You can probably get one off of Amazon or McMaster Carr.

As for LMI, bite off as much or as little as you want to tackle on this build. LMI is probably not a desirable long-term solution (if you do end up making basses long-term) but they have quality materials and do work as accurately as most can do themselves.

 

[HaMMerHeD]

Thanks. LMI isn't a long-term solution. It is just a vendor I am using until I have the capability for resawing and thicknessing.

 

[HaMMerHeD]

Thanks so much for your help so far guys. I really appreciate it. But now I have a couple more questions...

Carbon Fiber Rods: One a one-piece wenge neck with an ebony fingerboard, are they necessary?

Wenge neck: Would a simple tru-oil finish be sufficient for the aforementioned 1-piece wenge neck? I just want to protect the wood from finger-funk and give it a smooth, satin feel.

 

[devo_stevo]

Thanks so much for your help so far guys. I really appreciate it. But now I have a couple more questions...

Carbon Fiber Rods: One a one-piece wenge neck with an ebony fingerboard, are they necessary?

Wenge neck: Would a simple tru-oil finish be sufficient for the aforementioned 1-piece wenge neck? I just want to protect the wood from finger-funk and give it a smooth, satin feel.

No you won't need carbon rods in a wenge neck. My first build has a maple and walnut neck with no carbon rods in it and it doesn't seem to move at all so far. Wenge is much stiffer than walnut is too.

As for the finish, I don't know. They say that wenge doesn't even need a finish on it. I know that the wenge fingerboard on my Warwick is not finished and there doesn't seem to be any trouble with grime and gunk.