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Re-shielding Question

#4
sissy kathy said:
If you do a good job of shielding the paint will have no impact, the dielectric adhesive on the copper tape will just make the paint part of the new shielding. If there is a finish over the paint then I don't know.
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I'm not sure you mean "dialectic" here. A dialectric is an insulator which would not make the copper part of the paint (electrically).
 
#5
Turnaround said:
I'm not sure you mean "dialectic" here. A dialectric is an insulator which would not make the copper part of the paint (electrically).
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I used it wrong then; I was referring to the adhesive being conductive and making the existing paint part of the new shielding system. :bag: I fixed the post, thanks for the correction. That's not the best way to learn, but its probably the most effective. :thumbsup:
 
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#7
You are correct the shielding needs work but don't throw the baby out with the bath water. You could just get conductive adhesive copper and add where ever it is needed, you do not need to do the whole thing if you have conductivity across the paint. Is the paint properly grounded?
 
#8
bassburner said:
I'm getting a lot of noise (buzz unless I'm touching the strings) so I'd like to upgrade the shielding. I'm guessing Fender's shielding paint isn't cutting it.
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You got it right - that's a guess. Most shielding paint is quite effective. The problem is usually on how thorough the paint job is and, surprisingly often, that the paint isn't grounded. If you have a multimeter, you can test it. Try to see if there is continuity between the back of a control pot and the shielding paint. And again from the bridge to the paint. Then check for continuity from th paint in the control cavity to the paint in the pickup rout. If any of these show no connectivity you have a problem. Also you should ensure that the foil or paint on the underside of the pick guard and rear control cavity cover is also connecting with the shielding paint in the cavity. Thoroughness is the key here. Any break in connectivity leaves your shield less effective than it should be. Same goes for copper foil.

FWIW, I used to use copper foil entirely. Then it was proven to me by a very highly regarded maker that a good coating of decent quality shielding paint was better than your average copper foil installation. Now I use paint unless the customer is adamant and won't listen to reason. It happens.
 
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#9
+1 on checking that the shielding paint is actually grounded! i've seen all too many cheaper imports with the shielding paint in the pickup cavities or even the main control cavity not connecting to ground; that is worse than useless, it actually turns it into "antenna paint", adding noise.

with your meter, set it to ohms, rather than the continuity "beep" check; various spots in the paint are often resistive enough to read in the hundreds or even low thousands of ohms to ground; that's good enough to do the job, but not close enough to a short to trigger the beep on the meter.

to ground it, a short little wood screw through an eyelet lug screwed into the wood, said eyelet lug wired to ground, should do the trick.
 
#10
Turns out there was connectivity between all the cavities, components and bridge with the shielding paint. However that didn't stop the hum.

I used the copper tape on the control cavity and that silenced everything. +1 for copper
 
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#11
Perhaps there wasn't enough shielding paint, or perhaps the foil on the pick guard wasn't making good contact with the shielding paint. If the paint wasn't properly and thoroughly done, it wouldn't work.

Good that you got it sorted out.
 

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