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Recommend me a proper power amp...

I have never looked into power amps before, so I will need a bit of help in choosing one.

Basically, I want a quality 1000W+ power amp to push an Axe-FX-Ultra modeler through some MESA powerhouse 12" speakers. Nothing too elaborate, but enough so that I will not need to make another amp purchase for quite some time.


My only criteria is that it is powerful and clear... and I would prefer it not cost any more than $1500.


Thanks in advance.
 
Ive used a bunch of PA amps over the years and I found the best performance for the dollar is the Carvin DCM series. I toured for a year straight with the DCM 1000 and it never gave me any trouble. Its also relatively light relative to its output, and fits in a shallow rack. Awesome amp.

If you really wanna hurt people, and dont mind risking hurting your back... Crest CA9. Putting this in front of a big cabinet makes the cones sound like they're being powered by shotguns, not magnets.
 
At that price range there is a lot out there. You don't have to spend a grand....

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this is what I'd get.

****XTi = NON tordial too**** which means they are 1/3 to 1/2 the weight in some cases

Order it from 8thstreet and ask for one of the owners Mark get them to do it for you for 40% or better off list they are gr8 guys there they have a warehouse right on the premises and ship directly to you free.

I have an XTI 2000 and it absolutely kicks ass if your worried about wattage then get the XTI 4000 or 6000 if you get the 4000 ask em to "do it" for $950 saves you $50 and free shipping or get the 2000 ask them if they can do better than $699. Just my 2 cents. XTI series is made in the USA so you are getting quality too on top of pure power.
 
Among pro power amps I've actually seen very few that can't deal it out when driven sufficiently (which can be a problem with some bass preamps that didn't seem to be designed to interface with the wider world). Though I've seen a few that can't handle loads they are rated for without exhibiting thermal issues (Stewart World 1.2 comes to mind), and some older amp designs that don't seem to have good power supply/reserve. I actually notice a lot more variance among heads than I do with pro power amps in that regard.

So buy with desired price and feature set in mind, once you are sure your preamp's nominal output is enough to interface with an amp's input sensitivity (often expressed in Volts). I like to see highpass filters at around 30-40 Hz, and lower weight, myself.
 
After many trials and tribulations I have concluded that there is no power amp better suited for Bass than a QSC PLX2 1804.

Couple it to a great preamp and rock baby.


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I've done a little amp shuffling between my PA and bass rigs. One of my bass rigs is now using a QSC RMX 1450 (bridged mono) to feed an Acme B-4. More than adequate and I paid $200 for it second-hand. The other bass rack has a Crest CA-6.

You don't have to spend a fortune for a decent power amp....watts is cheap!

Riis
 
manufacturers tell you to bridge so you have more of a chance over powering something so they can sell more stuff.

That's nonsense. I've never had an amp manufacturer suggest that I bridge or not - whether as a PA operator or a bassist. They've always left it up to my knowledge and discretion. The selling of more drivers to replace blown ones is usually because of user error and lack of understanding - nothing more, nothing less.
 
That's nonsense. I've never had an amp manufacturer suggest that I bridge or not - whether as a PA operator or a bassist. They've always left it up to my knowledge and discretion. The selling of more drivers to replace blown ones is usually because of user error and lack of understanding - nothing more, nothing less.

not talking about drivers sorry refer to last post an it's not that they "tell" you it is in the manual that you can do it but not suggested. I would not run them to their limits aka bridged
 
Carvin 1540L. 1500 watts at 15 lbs. Just by coincidence, I happen to have one for sale in the want ads here on TalkBass.:D
 
That's nonsense. I've never had an amp manufacturer suggest that I bridge or not - whether as a PA operator or a bassist. They've always left it up to my knowledge and discretion. The selling of more drivers to replace blown ones is usually because of user error and lack of understanding - nothing more, nothing less.

+1.

Every manual I've read addresses the proper application of bridged mono mode (when applicable) including the do's and don'ts. Bridged mono is particularly effective when dealing with mono sub systems. Any damage / failure I've witnessed as been a result of pushing gear beyond its stated capabilities and/or limitations.

Riis
 
running an amp bridged is running it at its stated limits that is why I do not do it I would much rather have 2 channels and if one blows then you have another. That doesn't necessarily mean that you've done something wrong either amps as well as just about every other electrical device on the face of the planet runs the risk of malfunctions so in bridged mode I am just pointing out the limitation of just having one option as opposed to two aka two channels.
I am trying to say anyone is wrong I just state the practical reason of using one channel at its rated means vs. running it as one amp aka bridged at its rated means.
If I run my amp 4-ohm Bridge-Mono: 2,000W is what I get well I will be running 2 8ohm cabs down to 4ohms but only rated for 1000 watts I believe that is way over kill whereas if I run my system in one channel I am 800 watts @ 4ohm w a 1000 watt cab setup. In cases that I've seen the first application I mentioned go kaput many times amps or cabs died before the second application "failure I've witnessed as been a result of pushing gear beyond its stated capabilities and/or limitations." - Zooberwerx. This is just in my experience and unless we are playing the Wachovia Center we'll seldom have any reason to pump out 2000watts unless you just choose to do so or no PA in the club your playing or church or whatever.
 
running an amp bridged is running it at its stated limits that is why I do not do it I would much rather have 2 channels and if one blows then you have another. That doesn't necessarily mean that you've done something wrong either amps as well as just about every other electrical device on the face of the planet runs the risk of malfunctions so in bridged mode I am just pointing out the limitation of just having one option as opposed to two aka two channels

Actually you are changing your tune (better to just stop before digging a deeper hole), and a lot of what you say is neither here nor there as regards running at the limits of the amp. The fallacy of that is easily exposed when considering bridging at 8 ohms compared to using the same amp in say dual mono at 2 ohms per channel.

Realistically it's not uncommon to see qualified professionals using a lot of bridged power amps at 8 and 4 ohms where that is the best solution for the system, from small venue situations to mega-arenas and huge festivals.
 

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