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Recording 100 - The VERY Basics

BrianVengeance

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Apr 15, 2011
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Recording 100 - The VERY Basics

There is a great “Recording 101” FAQ with links to articles from Sound on Sound, but they are all from the context of someone with a bit of familiarity with what’s what in the recording world. A lot of the posts I have seen in this section are coming from more of a beginner’s perspective, and while SoS is a fantastic resource, they can be a bit advanced for someone who is just starting out.

My aim here is to try to provide a gentle primer to recording and answer some basic questions that often get glossed over, that someone may be too intimidated to ask, or simply not even really know how to ask just yet. There’s a lot of information out there (good and bad), and it can all be pretty daunting. With any luck, this post can help cut through a lot of the noise and provide some bit of signal to orient the absolute beginner to the world of recording.


What is an interface?

At a high level, an interface represents the boundary where two things meet and interact. In the context of audio, it is usually some bit of outboard hardware that you can plug microphones, line level devices, and instruments into that hooks up to a computer via USB, FireWire, or Thunderbolt. The primary purpose of an audio interface is to convert analog signals from your mics, instruments, pedals, and other analog sound making stuff into digital (1s and 0s) that a computer can work with, and back again.

You may also see analog to digital (AD) and digital to analog (DA) conversion discussed separately, or references to AD/DA, an ADC (analog to digital converter) or DAC (digital to analog converter), but they’re all basically talking about the same thing, which is the conversion of an audio signal from one format to another.


Ok, so I need one of these?

The short answer: yes.

For the sticklers on semantics (and by the definition I just gave), the headphone/line out and mic/line inputs built into your computer are part of an audio interface, and yes, you can use them to record. Similarly you can use a motorcycle to haul lumber, but it isn’t quite the best fit for purpose. Just as a pickup truck would serve better for your lumber runs, a purpose built audio interface will make recording much, much easier.


Which one should I get?

I’m going to short circuit a lot of details here and lead off with the two most important factors for selecting an interface: I/O and budget.

Critical mass for audio interfaces being “good enough” happened close to two decades ago, which means that anything you buy that is within the last 5-10 years most likely won’t be the weakest link in your recording chain until you run out of I/O, it dies, or you know what specific problem you are solving by replacing it. (Hint: it won’t be the sound quality)

As for I/O, my recommendation is a minimum of 2 in and 6 out - 2 inputs will allow you to record 2 channels of mono or 1 stereo source, and 6 outputs will let you hook up monitors and headphones, and still have two channels left to run signal to outboard gear (such as a sweet new pedal or compressor) and back into the while using the headphones and/or monitors.

As a quick aside, manufacturers love to have inflated numbers based on analog and digital I/O, so make sure you look for physical jacks on the device, and remember that a headphone jack counts as 2 channels (L+R) of output.

Bottom line: buy what you can afford with a little bit more I/O than you think you’ll need. The goal here is to avoid the quagmire of creative solutioning with adapters, additional mixers or having to purchase other gear to augment. A 2x6 interface will allow you to sidestep one or two of the most common issues that cause people to dump their first interfaces.

If you know you are going to record drums, bump the count up to between 4 and 8 microphone inputs.


Do I need a DAW?

The short answer: yes

While you technically don’t need a DAW (digital audio workstation) to capture sound on a computer, a DAW, like the pickup truck mentioned above, is purpose built to make the heavy lifting of making multitrack recordings much, much easier. Yes, they are complicated. Yes, they can be expensive. And yes, a DAW is probably overkill if you just want to play along with your favorite songs to share with your buddies.

That’s it. Really no way to sugar coat this one. You need a DAW.


So, which one?

Similar to modern interfaces, modern DAWs are well beyond the critical mass of good enough. There is no difference in how they sound, and each will provide facilities for multitrack recording along with a set of opinions as to how that gets done. Whether or not you jive with those opinions is entirely subjective to your experience and preferences.

If you’re collaborating with other people, get what they’re using to make the collaboration easier.

If pressed to make a recommendation, I’d say to pony up the cash to get a Reaper license and be done with it. It will cost less than most of the pedals on your board (or are thinking about getting), will be good for 2 major releases, and can easily hang with the big boys on features. Yes, you can record a “pro” quality album on Reaper.

At the point where you absolutely need ProTools or Logic (or DAW X), you’ll know without a doubt. Between now and then, rest assured you’re not missing out on anything. Besides, after you learn your way around one DAW, the skills will translate to another and the transition cost will still be much lower than starting from nothing and learning your first one.

The process is basically all the same: set tempo, press flashy red button, play gud, go back and play differently to "account for stylistic choices of drummer", rinse, repeat….


Now what?

At this point you should be comfortable with some basic lingo, (hopefully) have a few basic answers, and be able to formulate your next set of questions. It is my intention to follow up with at least 1 more post that will provide some information on using some of the stuff described above with a bit more detail.

Also, feel free to ask any questions and @mention me (or send a DM).
 
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There are other approaches that are much easier for a beginner. For example, you do not need an interface to record, especially if it's just a bass signal. A simple hand held recorder will do with a built-in microphone and SD card. Hit record and you're off. Plug the SD card into your computer and transfer the recording file onto your PC. Done.

You can do the same thing with a smartphone. Plug an external mic into the phone (built-in mics sound like crap for music recording). Launch your voice memo app and hit record. Transfer the recording file to your PC. Done. Or process the file with an app on the phone. Done sooner.

It's easy to get fancier fast. But you don't have to. Keep it simple.
 
There are other approaches that are much easier for a beginner. For example, you do not need an interface to record, especially if it's just a bass signal. A simple hand held recorder will do with a built-in microphone and SD card. Hit record and you're off. Plug the SD card into your computer and transfer the recording file onto your PC. Done.

You can do the same thing with a smartphone. Plug an external mic into the phone (built-in mics sound like crap for music recording). Launch your voice memo app and hit record. Transfer the recording file to your PC. Done. Or process the file with an app on the phone. Done sooner.

It's easy to get fancier fast. But you don't have to. Keep it simple.

+1000000 on keeping it simple.

As I believe you may be calling out, there's even more approaches than what you just mentioned and what I've outlined and recommended. None is more or less correct than others, but fit for purpose depends on the situation and use case.

By way of example, I use an iPhone or TASCAM TD-100 to capture sounds remotely when I don't have a full setup available (or more than likely don't want lug around racks, lunchboxes, and a laptop). Both approaches provide convenient capture tools - onboard mics, preamps, line in/out, headphone out, AD/DA conversion, and storage. Very much as you say - "Hit record and you're off. Plug the SD card into your computer and transfer the recording file onto your PC. Done."

But things aren't quite done though. There's a bit of a dangling end... what if the audio needs some attention? Say, the clip has too much pre roll or is too long, or needs some gain/compression because you can't hear the quiet parts, or you want to filter out low end rumble, remove hiss, or you simply want to use it with another recording? Maybe just a touch of reverb or delay to sweeten things up...

I glossed over it in the original post, but the point here is that if you need to do anything that I just mentioned, you need a DAW. Or at least an audio editor, which is a stripped down DAW... and as soon as you need to combine multiple recordings (e.g. to play along with a friend's recording, or a YouTube video of your favorite song), you need a DAW.

Setting up a solid state device, recording to it, pulling a SD card, copying the files it to your computer, and importing the files into a project in your DAW has quite a few more steps than plugging into your interface and recording directly into a project in your DAW. It is also a tradeoff I make when I don't want to take a lot of gear with me, and again, what you're saying isn't wrong.

Occam reminds us that all things being equal, the most direct path to an outcome is best - simplicity is wholly dependent on use case and the desired outcome.

You can certainly get "fancier" fast, but spending $1-200 on a decent interface with enough I/O and $60 on a DAW that can handle simple AND complex tasks makes for a pretty low investment on a VERY capable platform that is a bit more integrated and will allow for some growth into larger projects. Even at $260, many of us have paid more for a single pedal.
 
Hey Brian. I think this is a great basics and have just started on this journey. I've gotten to the point of building some drum tracks by adding in some from a drum program in Reaper and then editing some of the kick drum sequence to fit and adding in some of the fills that go with the track copying and pasting via (control D). I got all ready to put in the bass track, then realized I was at least lucky that the song was supposed to start with some measure of just drums.

Do you know how to add in a bit of time to the track so I don't have to press go and then immediately start playing? It's a little difficult to do that. I think you called it a pre-roll.

Also I recorded my bass track dry. I want to add plug ins in post. I assume this will work. Do I have to enable something or do I just pull up the plug-in for the track?

Your assistance in sincerely appreciated. I found your write up very helpful and agree with the sticky part...
 
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Hey Disco, appreciate the kind words and I'm glad it can be of some help. Congrats on starting your journey into recording!

For the buffer time between starting to record and needing to play, you're looking for "pre-roll". In Reaper, you can find settings for this by right clicking the metronome icon in the top left above the track controls, which will open the "Metronome and pre-roll settings" menu. The item you are looking (in Reaper 6) for is towards the bottom - enable "Pre-roll before recording" (also for playback if you like). You will also be able to change the number of measures of pre-roll to a value you prefer.

Its also a good idea to leave a little room before the start of your tracks when recording - I usually leave at least 4 or 8 measures beforehand, just in case I want to add something up front. This way I won't have to worry about moving things around to accommodate.

You can definitely add plugins in post, and some of the ones provided by Reaper are quite serviceable. The two most common ways to do this is from the track control section in the track window (left side of the upper window), or on the channel in the mixer section.

On the track window, look for a small box to the right of the track name and gain knob with "FX" on it. Click this, and two windows should open up - current effects list titled 'FX: Track N "Track Name"' (where N is the track number), and another window titled 'Add FX to Track N "Track Name"'. Search for the FX you want, click to select it, and click OK. This will add them to the FX list. You'll see the effect appear in the track FX list, and can click on it to manipulate it.

If the second dialog didn't pop up, you can click "Add" in the bottom left to pull up the Add FX window.

In the mixer window, you'll see two blocks with slots (for FX and routing) above the channel faders. Beneath this is an FX button that will behave the same. Alternatively, you can click on a slot in the upper (FX) box, and the same set of windows should pop up.

Also take a moment to explore what happens when you right click on the FX buttons (or the FX themselves) - this will give you another way to add and access your FX.

None of these are right or wrong, and as you use them more, you'll find what works best for you.

Also, I might suggest adding a few measures of empty space before you start your track - this can help in the instance where you realize that you may want to add something before what you've already recorded. DAWs make it easy to move things around, but if you can start closer the "finished product", then you can potentially save a lot of time in editing to get there!

Great questions, and hope this helps!
 
I’ll be following along and appreciate this discussion. I have a focusrite interface on the way and plan on recording bass to tracks that my band leader sends me instead of going to his house to record.

I also want to be able to play along to videos and create a new video using my computers camera, so if anyone has advice on that I would really appreciate it.

example: a friend posted a video of him playing a song on piano and tagged me to add a bass line. How would I go about this?
 
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Hey Disco, appreciate the kind words and I'm glad it can be of some help. Congrats on starting your journey into recording!

For the buffer time between starting to record and needing to play, you're looking for "pre-roll". In Reaper, you can find settings for this by right clicking the metronome icon in the top left above the track controls, which will open the "Metronome and pre-roll settings" menu. The item you are looking (in Reaper 6) for is towards the bottom - enable "Pre-roll before recording" (also for playback if you like). You will also be able to change the number of measures of pre-roll to a value you prefer.

Its also a good idea to leave a little room before the start of your tracks when recording - I usually leave at least 4 or 8 measures beforehand, just in case I want to add something up front. This way I won't have to worry about moving things around to accommodate.

You can definitely add plugins in post, and some of the ones provided by Reaper are quite serviceable. The two most common ways to do this is from the track control section in the track window (left side of the upper window), or on the channel in the mixer section.

On the track window, look for a small box to the right of the track name and gain knob with "FX" on it. Click this, and two windows should open up - current effects list titled 'FX: Track N "Track Name"' (where N is the track number), and another window titled 'Add FX to Track N "Track Name"'. Search for the FX you want, click to select it, and click OK. This will add them to the FX list. You'll see the effect appear in the track FX list, and can click on it to manipulate it.

If the second dialog didn't pop up, you can click "Add" in the bottom left to pull up the Add FX window.

In the mixer window, you'll see two blocks with slots (for FX and routing) above the channel faders. Beneath this is an FX button that will behave the same. Alternatively, you can click on a slot in the upper (FX) box, and the same set of windows should pop up.

Also take a moment to explore what happens when you right click on the FX buttons (or the FX themselves) - this will give you another way to add and access your FX.

None of these are right or wrong, and as you use them more, you'll find what works best for you.

Also, I might suggest adding a few measures of empty space before you start your track - this can help in the instance where you realize that you may want to add something before what you've already recorded. DAWs make it easy to move things around, but if you can start closer the "finished product", then you can potentially save a lot of time in editing to get there!

Great questions, and hope this helps!
Thanks so much! As you said, I have found with Reaper there are more than a few ways to open and add things. It is such a full featured product that it makes it confusing at times to get the workflow down, but I'm getting used to it. Thanks agin for your help. I'm sure I will have more questions!

jeff
 
I’ll be following along and appreciate this discussion. I have a focusrite interface on the way and plan on recording bass to tracks that my band leader sends me instead of going to his house to record.

I also want to be able to play along to videos and create a new video using my computers camera, so if anyone has advice on that I would really appreciate it.

example: a friend posted a video of him playing a song on piano and tagged me to add a bass line. How would I go about this?

Welcome!

Congrats on your new interface, and hopefully that helps with the collaboration with the band leader! As mentioned above, if s/he is already using a DAW, the best one for you is likely the same one they are using. This will enable you to share entire projects with all of their edits and settings, rather than needing to rebuild a project with iteration.

At the end of the day though, use the process that works best for you.

As far as playing along to videos, the approach will depend on what is the desired outcome - e.g. do you want to end up with an audio track of piano and bass, audio of bass to add to his video, or video (with audio) of you playing along with him?
 
Welcome!

Congrats on your new interface, and hopefully that helps with the collaboration with the band leader! As mentioned above, if s/he is already using a DAW, the best one for you is likely the same one they are using. This will enable you to share entire projects with all of their edits and settings, rather than needing to rebuild a project with iteration.

At the end of the day though, use the process that works best for you.

As far as playing along to videos, the approach will depend on what is the desired outcome - e.g. do you want to end up with an audio track of piano and bass, audio of bass to add to his video, or video (with audio) of you playing along with him?

hey thanks a lot for the help. I think I’m going to go with the Presonus Artist DAW based on the drummers suggestion. Our band leader uses Cubase but also suggested the Presonus daw.

Concerning the collaboration video with keys player, my idea was the make a new video showing his and mine next to each other with combined audio. I want to post a “response” video for fun.
 
hey thanks a lot for the help. I think I’m going to go with the Presonus Artist DAW based on the drummers suggestion. Our band leader uses Cubase but also suggested the Presonus daw.

No worries at all, happy to help where I can. Definitely use what your collaborators are using if you are starting out - haven't used Studio One, but I know a few guys swear by it. Perfectly good choice.

Concerning the collaboration video with keys player, my idea was the make a new video showing his and mine next to each other with combined audio. I want to post a “response” video for fun.

Ah, very cool! I think there are a few threads on this already, but it should be pretty straightforward. Depending on how you want to capture the audio, you can simply film yourself playing along to him and let the camera's mic do the work, or you could go a little bit more advanced and use your audio interface into your video capture software or DAW.

For the following, I'm going to make the assumption that you're using an iPhone (or similar) for a single continuous shot, and want to capture to your DAW.

Get your area set up before you record - check the framing, get some lighting up, clean off surfaces.... basically whatever you want to make the framed shot look the way you want. No need to go crazy here, but you can't edit out the overflowing garbage can in post, etc.

Set up a project in your DAW to record the bass line. Most DAWs will allow you to import video clips to a track to reference for recording your audio, and failing that, you can extract the audio from the video and import that. This isn't strictly necessary, but may help with retakes if you flub up a part and don't want to redo the whole thing (which will require some video editing later).

if you're planning on doing single takes, you can skip this step altogether, and just have something convenient to play back. Don't worry about the camera picking up the audio - you're going to replace that later with what you're recording to the DAW.

Press record on the DAW and camera, rake the strings 2-3 times (or clap) during the pre-roll, and play along.

When you've finished production, next step is to import his video, your video, and your audio track into a video editor. Framing them up on screen how you like, sync the audio (this is where the claps / rakes help) with the video, and render the final output.

Lots of steps, but pretty straight forward for a more involved setup.

Alternatively, you could just use your camera and let its internal mics capture your playing. You'll still need a video editor to stitch the two videos together (if you want the side-by-side), but it is a shorter path to the desired outcome.

If you're using a DSLR or mirrorless, you might also be able to run a line level signal from a DI and external preamp into the camera, which could also cut out the overhead of the DAW (while also losing its capabilities to polish your sound).

Lots of ways to get at what you're going for, and not all of them have to be complex. Hope this helps!
 
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No worries at all, happy to help where I can. Definitely use what your collaborators are using if you are starting out - haven't used Studio One, but I know a few guys swear by it. Perfectly good choice.



Ah, very cool! I think there are a few threads on this already, but it should be pretty straightforward. Depending on how you want to capture the audio, you can simply film yourself playing along to him and let the camera's mic do the work, or you could go a little bit more advanced and use your audio interface into your video capture software or DAW.

For the following, I'm going to make the assumption that you're using an iPhone (or similar) for a single continuous shot, and want to capture to your DAW.

Get your area set up before you record - check the framing, get some lighting up, clean off surfaces.... basically whatever you want to make the framed shot look the way you want. No need to go crazy here, but you can't edit out the overflowing garbage can in post, etc.

Set up a project in your DAW to record the bass line. Most DAWs will allow you to import video clips to a track to reference for recording your audio, and failing that, you can extract the audio from the video and import that. This isn't strictly necessary, but may help with retakes if you flub up a part and don't want to redo the whole thing (which will require some video editing later).

if you're planning on doing single takes, you can skip this step altogether, and just have something convenient to play back. Don't worry about the camera picking up the audio - you're going to replace that later with what you're recording to the DAW.

Press record on the DAW and camera, rake the strings 2-3 times (or clap) during the pre-roll, and play along.

When you've finished production, next step is to import his video, your video, and your audio track into a video editor. Framing them up on screen how you like, sync the audio (this is where the claps / rakes help) with the video, and render the final output.

Lots of steps, but pretty straight forward for a more involved setup.

Alternatively, you could just use your camera and let its internal mics capture your playing. You'll still need a video editor to stitch the two videos together (if you want the side-by-side), but it is a shorter path to the desired outcome.

If you're using a DSLR or mirrorless, you might also be able to run a line level signal from a DI and external preamp into the camera, which could also cut out the overhead of the DAW (while also losing its capabilities to polish your sound).

Lots of ways to get at what you're going for, and not all of them have to be complex. Hope this helps!

this helped out a lot, thank you!
 
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Lots of TB’ers have Macs. Do you consider GarageBand to be a DAW? It performs the functions you mention, though likely not all of them. It’s free to Mac users.

Hey Tom, great question - Garage Band is very much a DAW, and as you mentioned, towards the lighter end of features. If you are currently using it to good results, or have a Mac and want to start recording, it can be a very good place to get the ball rolling (or keep on keepin' on if you're already using it). Hard to argue with the price!

Interestingly enough, I am also a Mac user and started off with Garage Band before moving on to Logic, and ultimately Reaper. Everyone's path and needs are a little different, and you may or may not brush up against the limits of what GB can do. If not, no worries at all! It has been good enough tool for Rihanna and Trent Reznor at times, so there's that.

To backfill a bit, one of the biggest reasons for me switching over to Reaper had more to do with my collaborators than any deficiency in Logic. Getting the bandmates to pony up for a Mac when they have a perfectly good PC available is a much tougher sell than all of us coming to terms with $60 for a Reaper license. Pretty easy compromise to make, but if Garage Band works for you anyone you're working with, use it!
 
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Hey Tom, great question - Garage Band is very much a DAW, and as you mentioned, towards the lighter end of features. If you are currently using it to good results, or have a Mac and want to start recording, it can be a very good place to get the ball rolling (or keep on keepin' on if you're already using it). Hard to argue with the price!

Interestingly enough, I am also a Mac user and started off with Garage Band before moving on to Logic, and ultimately Reaper. Everyone's path and needs are a little different, and you may or may not brush up against the limits of what GB can do. If not, no worries at all! It has been good enough tool for Rihanna and Trent Reznor at times, so there's that.

To backfill a bit, one of the biggest reasons for me switching over to Reaper had more to do with my collaborators than any deficiency in Logic. Getting the bandmates to pony up for a Mac when they have a perfectly good PC available is a much tougher sell than all of us coming to terms with $60 for a Reaper license. Pretty easy compromise to make, but if Garage Band works for you anyone you're working with, use it!
Thanks! I’m trying it out. I’ve done lots of recording but always with a pro on the board, usually on Pro-tools. It’s a lot of fun and pretty user-friendly but you’re right, it won’t run on a PC without a lot of workarounds. These days though, it’s going to have to do for a while. ...and it will take a while to gain skill. It’s not a simple program, by any means.