Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Effects [BG]' started by James Hart, Feb 22, 2008.
Do you know how much guttermouth charges for the Doom fuzz? That thing always tickles my bowels in an ever-so-gently way.
Not that I'll be able to afford it anytime soon... I just like to know how far these things are from my reach. It's kind of like a masochistic game I play late at night.
My doom fuzz should be in any day now. It cost about $100. I'm not too sure if I'll keep it though, I have quite a bit of fuzz as it is. This red llama sounds interesting as well. I'm curious to learn more about it. I've been tempted with building a pedal. What are the controls on it?
He is also a member here. Try PM'ing him, but I don't think he will be taking new orders anymore, at least that's what I thought I saw him post.
Couple of questions for you about your build plan.
- Will you be raising the value of the input cap from .1 uF, or the cap in between the inverting stages
- I had typically seen pull-down resistors on the output rather than the input, do you have any idea why it is on the input there? Its whole purpose is to bleed output signal when the effect is off so you don't get a pop when the pedal is turned on, is it not?
- On the Red Llama version, I don't see the point in raising the resistor and capacitor in the voltage biasing circuit for the unused inverters. Any reason you can think of?
- On the Craig Anderton schematic I have, there is a Rhythm/Lead toggle in the first inverter stage that switches between the 100k resistor shown on your layout, with a 10M resistor not shown on your layout, both in parallel with the 10pF cap. Just not sure if you saw that or not. Looked to me like it might be a treble boost switch. But, the concept being the same, could you not replace the 10M resistor with a , say, 1K resistor, and use it as a treble cut, leaving the cap at the 10pF value?
Sorry for all the questions, just curious as to what your plans are, I plan on building one as well!
The 0.1 input cap looks good, even the .068 should be fine for bass.
You always need a pull-down resistor, the pull-down sets the input impedance. In this case the input impedance should be close to 1M.
I assume you mean the 1k and 330uF values at the top? They are not biasing the unused inverters. The unused inverters are just tied high so they are not floating.
The 1k and 330uF just give a much stiffer positive voltage. Basically a 330uF is bigger and more expensive.
I can't find my Anderton book right now, but I think the 10M is actually to give *more* fuzz for the lead player.
While the 10pF is a high cut, the real reason for it is to keep the noise down. If you leave it out, you will get lots of high frequency noise.
that's a smoothing cap, right? I ordered a 220uF for that spot.
Correct. 220uF should be great.
Thanks man! I noticed the function of the input resistor last night, and it seems that having a larger than 1K resistor for the unused inverters would reduce the current draw in the circuit. That pretty much does all my questions in!
Sounds cool. I look forward to more clips.
Mmmmm... I like sorbet
I liked the sound from that sample. I might think about one of these myself should I want an actual fuzz pedal.
Hoping for clips when you build this thing, James!
I'm finally back home!
Which means back to TB =]
Okay, so I have built a TSF... Really wasn't crazy about it...
I mean, the effect was there. It sounded okay, just not good. I think an important factor in DIY is trying a ton of things and seeing if they work for you. BUT! This is reallllyyyy a guitar effect. The fuzz it will give you wont be a cutting, edgy rippy fuzz. More of a mid-high(ish) grit and bite (really unnatural). It will sound like you are mixing a guitar fuzz in with your original bass tone. That effect can be great! I actually use it with many of my builds to be honest (I have about 3 of the splitter/blender from ROG on my board). This effect just wasn't the one =[.
If you would like to build a CMOS based project (I have built them all). I would HIGHLY recommend the Hot Tubes!!!
Also the Tube Screamer that is CMOS based (rather than the tl072, 5532, etc.) is a great project!
My favorite would have to be the CMOS based boost though, its one of my favorite pedals, and the only booster for me. I can even give you a clip of it if you would like =].
So basically, I would rate all of the CMOS discussed here like so;
CMOS Boost>Hot Tubes>CMOS Screamer>Hot Harmonics>Red Llama/TSF.
The CMOS Boost is so simple to build and sounds so great, if you're into diy and you haven't built one... =/
Message me or ask in the thread about schems and whatnot for the pedals I discuss. I'm more than happy to distribute =].
Why didn't you order this from Pedal Parts as well?
Just asking. I did not know they even existed until you posted the link after someone asked you about the knob. Pretty cool site, I like not having to wade around pages of inventory. I had previously bought all my parts from Small Bear.
I think I am going to make the Three knob version of the Bazz Fuzz next. I had considered the tube sound fuzz, but I'll wait till you build yours first.
The Bazz Fuss is a GREAT effect! It has that huge, synthy, wall of fuzz sound. I actually made one a little bit differently (lower gain with a built in blender) and mounted it next to the volume and tone controls in my fretless p-bass that I made.
I know how the e-store struggle can be...
When you are just starting out in electronics and diy it can be pretty overwhelming. I'll try to help my best with this but, it takes a lot of finding out for yourself. Thats half the fun of DIY!!! =]
For online vendors these are the ones I use personally;
Small Bear: Enclosures, Knobs, odd chips like the CMOS chips and others, also a great selection of GE transistors. I pretty much get everything but stomp-switches and components from here.
Mouser: I pretty much get all of my components here (for caps nowadays I use AVX Metalized Poly Film, and the Xicon Hi-Temp 50V for electros, and for resistors I like these Xicon 217 1/4 Watt Metal Film)
DIY Stompboxes Store: I get my 3PDT switches from here (best price I can find). Also they have the vero-board that Small Bear used to have, its good stuff.
Now THAT would be a good use of the dumb S-1 switch in the new P's....
That's cool and all, but now I am waiting for someone to re-wire their Fender S-1 switch using some small fuzz circuit.
I almost want to run out and buy a P bass just to try it.