Refretting a ‘61 Fender

[Hurricane Jimmie]

So Anyway, I had an 80's G&L SB1 that was fretted/fretless. There were frets, but they'd been filed down. Might have been made that way.
My local guy took out the old frets, installed new frets and did some work on another bass I own for $400. (I suck, and I really suck at fretless).
Granted it was a player and not a vintage instrument.

But for a 61 Jazz you might want to consider someone who has a national client base that would provide some authentication regarding the work.
Someone like Grhun, Carter, etc. could probably refer you.

Good Luck with your decision.

 

[Matt O]

Have a '61 Jazz that needs a refret. Originals are so worn out it's almost a fretless.

I seem to recall that there's something special about the way they installed frets at that time that makes them more trouble to refret. Is that right? Anyone have an opinion on what I should expect to pay?

I'd budget $500, give or take. I'll echo those that are suggesting you go with someone that has a reputation for vintage work.

Where are you located?

 

[Smooth_bass88]

Thanks for all the input. Since this is a player's instrument, I think a period correct refret might increase the value.

I've been talking to local luthiers and, understandably, they don't want to give an estimate until they see it. Can anyone tell me what they paid, or what you think is a reasonable expectation?

I had my 34-year-old Fender use 62 reissue (AVRI) Precision re-fretted a few years ago and it was $400. It shouldn't cost you any more or less (whatever the price is) just because it a pre-CBS Fender. The main thing is that you have it done by whomever is considered the best around. The guy who did mine previously worked for TWO highly renowned electric bass makers, and his work is downright incredible.

 

[iammr2]

I don't understand that. A refret is a refret. What would a luthier need to see?

A few years ago I paid $400 for new frets and nut on my 80's G&L.

Frets installed sideways are more complicated to replace. And if you pull the old frets straight out, you'll likely splinter and chip the wood of your fretboard(and will probably crack and chip the finish if it's a maple neck). Then when you try to press the modern fret in, you'll find the fret slot is not deep enough or maybe not wide enough. Saying 'a refret is a refret' in this case is like saying any old spark plug will work in your car.

 

[waynobass]

Frets installed sideways are more complicated to replace.

Yes, as I read in earlier posts, but why would a luthier need to look at the neck? Wouldn't just knowing that it's a 60's Fender tell them about the sideways thing?

 

[iammr2]

Yes, as I read in earlier posts, but why would a luthier need to look at the neck? Wouldn't just knowing that it's a 60's Fender tell them about the sideways thing?

Probably because he knows to look at a job before accepting or quoting it.

 

[202dy]

"When you're going through hell, keep on going."
/Winston Churchill

The key to doing this job is to slide the fret out of the slot. They were installed from the bass side. They must exit on the treble side. The wood fibers are already "bent" in that direction. Once the fret has moved out a half inch you can grab it with a pair of plyers or Vise-grips and pull the fret out. They'll slide out like a drawer.

The usual method is to take a sharp point to place a divot in the top of the fret. I use an old nail set ground to a sharp point. Once established, the nail set can be used to move the fret to the point where it can be pulled out.

Light taps with your chosen hammer are important. Personally, I use an eight ounce hammer. But you can use a framing hammer if you like. Just remember that you want to kiss the head of the nail set. It's not a contest to see who can sink a 16 penny nail in four swats.

If you do it this way there will no chipping.

Install the new frets in the normal way.

Notes:

Don't pull up or down on the fret when sliding it out.

Do not use water. It will cause the end grain in the kerf to swell. That means the wood will be tighter on the fret tang. You will not be happier.

Be careful to keep the nail set firmly engaged with the divot. If it slips it is likely that you will put another divot in the fingerboard. On rosewood, you bought yourself five or ten minutes of touch up. On maple it's a half an hour of agony.