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REHOUSING Behringer BSY600 thread

#21
I've done a few Behringer rehousings. They suck. You need a really hot iron to melt the solder they use.

Don't try to speed anything up and force the components out, you'll tear the circuit pads and ruin your board.

Starting with your footswitch, buy one of theses:
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Unsolder on onboard switch.
Put a wire in each hole remaining from the onboard switch removal.
Solder the two wires on the edge of the circuit board to one of the lugs on the new switch. It doesn't matter which lug they go to, so long as they go to the same one.

Solder the other two wires, the ones nearer ro the inside of the circuit board, to the other lug on the new switch.

YOu have now replaced your On/Off switch.

What's next?
 
#22
icecycle66 said:
YOu have now replaced your On/Off switch.
Click to expand...

The switch is the worst part of this pedal. If you could replace only that the rest can be lived with.

What's next?
Click to expand...

The thing has four 1/4" jacks. They either need to be moved off the board to fit the new housing, or the the new housing has to be sized or modified to accomadate keeping the jacks on the board.

I think if I ever get around to doing this the latter option is less scary to me.

Then there are the pots...
 
#24
Here is my guts!

01fa723d.jpg
 
#26
Dealing with the in and out jacks is easier said than done. Behringer uses some hardcore solder on these things.

All I did was usolder the jacks from the board.
Then point-to-point wire the jack to the board.
Use the jack that you pulled off the board and make sure you wire each jack prong to the same hole it came out of.

You'll need to get some nuts to fasten the jacks to the enclosure. Just go the the component section at the Radio Shack nearest you. They usually have a little baggy of misc. washers and nuts and stuff that has the proper size.

Do the power jack the same way.You can use the same power jack if you want, but that means you'll have to figure out how to secure the square jack into the enclosure. You can find round power jacks just about anywhere. Here are some:

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#28
icecycle66 said:
I thought the 1/4 inch jacks and power were the hardest parts.
Click to expand...
+1. I had a lot of problems with that as well.

icecycle66 said:
the shafts are long enough to rise up through the enclosure box and not be a problem.
Click to expand...

That is also what I was considering, which is why I chose a smaller enclosure at first. However the first time I did it I miss alined the holes a little and messed thimgs up. Need another enclosure .
 
#30
If you don't take the jacks and power off the board you are going to have a hell of a time figuring out how to get the board in a box.

You'll have to cut deep half moons out of the side of a perfectly sized enclosure and slide the board in them.

You then have to sandwich the jacks between the bottom plate of the enclosure and the half moon cutouts. I tried doing a rehouse without desoldering and ruined two enclosures. It's a pain either way, but I feel the probability of success is greater by taking the jacks off the board.
 
#32
To stabalize the circuit board in the enclosure, I bought some rubber grommets from Ace Hardware. (That place is great for rigging stuff up.)

I jammed one grommet between the encosure and the circuit board to fine tune my pot alignment and keep them from wiggling.

I put the other two between the baseplate and the circuit board to keep the board from bouncing up and down.

This is the Slow Motion, by the way.
 

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#35
No, you have to take either the pots or jacks off the board.

If you do the half moon with a 125B then the shafts aren't long enough to reach the top of the enclosure.

The 125B is also deep enough to fit the new on/off switch. That switch is pretty deep.

The grommets are also necessary to keep the circuit board parralel to the baseplate. Since the pots stay on the circuit board, the board needs to be on an even plane or else the shafts and knobs get all kinked up.

Wait a minute. Sockets, what sockets?
 
#37
icecycle66 said:
If you do the half moon with a 125B then the shafts aren't long enough to reach the top of the enclosure.
Click to expand...
so for the halfmoon cuts a 1550B may be better since the jacks aline with the walls, but...

icecycle66 said:
The 125B is also deep enough to fit the new on/off switch. That switch is pretty deep.
Click to expand...
you have a point here but are the pot shafts long enough with deeper enclosure?
 
#38
The shafts are fine with the deeper enclosure as long as the board is lifted up (with the grommets). The grommets will presss the board tightly againts the on/off switch with the help of the baseplate.

That's why you have to take the jacks off the board.

look at my first picture, the outside side view. That's how high up I would have had to cut the half-moons to get the shafts to line up properly.
You'll notice that the shafts don't really break the surface of the enclosure that much, they may rise a millimeter above the enclosure surface.
 
#40
I rehoused 2 pedals in my whole life so I'm hardly an expert.
In both cases I used a good old true bypass switch to get around the circuit. Momentary switch is removed and the pedal is turned on by the input jack.
It is the best thing to do, unless you need to save energy, ie run it with batteries.

However, there is an extra issue with the Behringer. You need the momentary switch for the held note option.
 

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