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Removing And Re-Using Strings...

Curious as to how you remove and re-use a set of strings:-

You have a bridge that isn't an Easy-Loader (you have to thread the strings through holes in the bridge).

So you loosen off your pegs but the strings are curly and coiled on the peg.

Now you can get the string off the peg like that without straightening out the string.

But when you come to get it through the bridge hole:-

Do you patiently work the string through the hole as it is....or do you straighten out the string a fair bit so it goes through the hole effortlessly.

In my mind , straightening it out even a small amount could possibly damage the string in some way.

On the other hand it takes forever and a day to get the string out with all the curls and coils still on it....and you risk scratching the body

These would be strings that you aren't throwing away but will be possibly be re-used....or you're taking them off for a mod or repair to a bass etc.....

What do you do?
 
Curious as to how you remove and re-use a set of strings:-

You have a bridge that isn't an Easy-Loader (you have to thread the strings through holes in the bridge).

So you loosen off your pegs but the strings are curly and coiled on the peg.

Now you can get the string off the peg like that without straightening out the string.

But when you come to get it through the bridge hole:-

Do you patiently work the string through the hole as it is....or do you straighten out the string a fair bit so it goes through the hole effortlessly.

In my mind , straightening it out even a small amount could possibly damage the string in some way.

On the other hand it takes forever and a day to get the string out with all the curls and coils still on it....and you risk scratching the body

These would be strings that you aren't throwing away but will be possibly be re-used....or you're taking them off for a mod or repair to a bass etc.....

What do you do?

Yes
 
Well I've noticed that if you take a string off and mess with them at the peg end to do any straightening out, if you get any kind of slight bend or kink on the string in the area between the nut and the peg.....the tuning and intonation goes out the window because that little tiny irregularity in the string will flex.
 
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Well I've noticed that if you take a string off and mess with them at the peg end to do any straightening out, if you get any kind of slight bend or kink on the string in the area between the nut and the peg.....the tuning and intonation goes out the window because that little tiny irregularity in the string will flex.
Interesting. I've never once noticed that during dozens, and dozens and dozens of string changes. Between this and your shortscale issues, you seem to have a lot of stringing problems.
 
if you get any kind of slight bend or kink on the string in the area between the nut and the peg....

If I see a spot that has a little kink (possibly from the nut being a different length from the anchor, or changing from a 34" scale bass to a 35" scale bass), I just bend it straight (a little over-bend) and always set the witness point at the nut and saddles, and pinch the string by the tuning post so it's straight from the post to the nut- all as I string and tune up a set. Everything is then straight from point of contact to the next point of contact. No where for the string to 'settle' to, and the string only flexes between the nut and saddle.
 
Well I've noticed that if you take a string off and mess with them at the peg end to do any straightening out, if you get any kind of slight bend or kink on the string in the area between the nut and the peg.....the tuning and intonation goes out the window because that little tiny irregularity in the string will flex.
In 25+ years, I have never noticed any tuning/ intonation issues with recycled strings.
 
But when you come to get it through the bridge hole:-

Do you patiently work the string through the hole as it is....or do you straighten out the string a fair bit so it goes through the hole effortlessly.

It would be easier if you were to straighten them out first, but I've always done it the hard way in order to avoid messing up the curled ends. I'm also very fussy about keeping the silk wrapping from unraveling. Fortunately, this is not something I've had to do very often in the past.

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ZenG said: . . . "On the other hand it takes forever and a day to get the string out with all the curls and coils still on it....and you risk scratching the body" . . .

To prevent scratching the body, particularly when you are getting the curly part out of the bridge, lay down a fairly wide piece of painter's tape (low-tac masking tape) immediately against the bridge. It leaves no residue and protects the finish at the point where the sharp string end will tend to do the damage. The tape is a good "tool" to have when you are working on your instrument.

Maybe this may not work on all finishes - not sure. I only have bullet-proof poly finishes on my basses.
 
i'm about 1/2 way in between ... i straighten the strings out about half way ... never had any string issues ... the normal felt issues ...

it's a little more cost effective than getting another bass to try different strings ... which works also .. !!
 
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Strings absolutely get worse by taking them off.. And reusing them.. Perhaps you can get away with it once..

I mean Really If you are sensitive to how they feel.. Others definitely don't care about it..

It may not be drastic changes but some people do notice old and rewrapped strings..

For sure it can bend strings and cause twists..

You guys who say it's ok are probably using really flexible core strings or etc..

Maybe this guy uses a string that isn't good taking off and reusing?
 
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I often swap strings, and my only problems have been losing silk wrap on strings that have them (mostly cosmetic but see below), and also with losing nylon wrap on D'Addario tapewounds. Remove tapewounds often enough and the nylon will start to unravel--the exposed narrow metal core can be very difficult to rewrap around the tuning posts.

Also, I do get concerned that swapping LaBella and Rotosound flats may weaken them to the point of eventual breakage. So far so good.
 
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