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Double Bass Removing Rosin From Strings?

Is there an easy way to get the rosin off your strings? I have tried a rag, but that doesn't seem to work for me.
Your profile says you use cello rosin? What's up with that? :eyebrow:

I've never tried cello rosin, but let me venture to guess that you might get better results with bass rosin. And you might not need to use nearly as much, which might reduce the build up on the strings.

For me, I wipe the strings with a stiff cloth after every tune I use the bow on. If you are worried about the appearance of your "rag", a linen handkerchief should do just fine. The best strategy is not to let the rosin build up. I find that the build up starts affecting the tone pretty quickly and makes the notes buzzy or thin.
 
I was kind of a little lax with the wiping every time I play, so I need to get the buildup off.

Now with the whole cello rosin thing, that is my rosin for the summer, for my bass rosin is WAY too soft for the summer, and it melts all over the place. I usually have some Pop's on hand for the cold winter months.

Now I will see what isopropyl alcohol will do. Do I need to rub the strings arfterwards with some water?
 
Find a copper pot scrubber at your grocery store. I use the Chore Boy brand. This takes the rosin right off, and I I've yet to see it damage the string.

This is the right idea. I find that a copper scourer followed by a quick wipe with a rag is the best way to clean my strings. There was a thread about cleaning strings recently in the "strings" section. Can be found here: http://www.talkbass.com/forum/showthread.php?t=336649
 
I know how you feel. Even after wiping the strings down every time you play and you have removed all visible residue they still feel sticky so here's the process I usually use for cleaning off my stings.

1) Wipe the strings every time you play (it's not entirely necessary but it makes it so you don't have to do a serious cleaning every time).

2) Play for a few minutes. When you do need to clean the strings do it right after you play as the rosin will be warmer and likely more pliable, although a bit more sticky.

3) Use a cloth diaper, piece of an old shirt, or something else you don't care about to squeeze the string and slide your hand with the cloth down the string up to the bridge. You need to apply a pretty significant amount of pressure and its likely to make an ungodly racket but that's just part of the process. Continue that until you get all the rosin off that was caked on.

4) Once you are to the point where your strings are just sticky but appear nearly clean, you're ready for the rubbing alcohol. Apply just a little bit (its better to use less and avoid dripping than to overdo it and risk ruining your finish) onto the same rag you used to wipe the strings off using similar technique as in step 3. Repeat this step as many times as necessary, using a new section of the cloth each time.

At this point, the arco section of the strings between the fingerboard and the bridge should feel even smoother and cleaner than the strings near the upper neck. Now you're ready to play again without that sticky, dreadful attack at the beginning of the note.

I've used this process and it's worked even on ridiculously sticky rosin such as Pops. Hope it works as well for you.
 
I learned this from a member of the Philadelphia Orchestra. I use #0000 grade steel wool. It is super fine steel wool that will not damages the strings. Clean them a few minutes after you stop playing,(the rosin cools down and is easy to wipe off) and it will prolong the life of your strings. A pack of 16 pads from the store is $3-$4. This should last a few years depending on how often you practice. I wrap the wool in a cloth so the spent rosin does not touch the inside of my bow case pocket.
 
I learned this from a member of the Philadelphia Orchestra. I use #0000 grade steel wool. It is super fine steel wool that will not damages the strings. Clean them a few minutes after you stop playing,(the rosin cools down and is easy to wipe off) and it will prolong the life of your strings. A pack of 16 pads from the store is $3-$4. This should last a few years depending on how often you practice. I wrap the wool in a cloth so the spent rosin does not touch the inside of my bow case pocket.

I have gotten this recommendation before as well, but I found that steel wool of that fine a grade tends to leave tiny bits of steel wool dust on the front of the instrument. IMO, it seems like it might damage the finish on the instrument to wipe this dust off. Maybe I just got a particularly bad piece of steel wool, but the copper scourers work best for me. I guess it seems like they could damage the strings, but I haven't ever had any problems.
 
If super-fine steel wool works, then you could also use super-fine Scotchbrite, which won't shed. But +1 on the isopropyl. Meths/denatured alcohol works too (and so would Vodka in a pinch!) but isopropyl won't instantly destroy the varnish if you get a drop on it. Disadvantage is that it will be a bit slower… but there's no getting around that, because rosin and varnish are both based on shellac, and so they both dissolve in the same range of solvents.