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Renaissance/Turner Basses Club

Love the headstock detail binding on that one.
Mine doesn't have that rear access plate but has the jack/battery assembly built in the under edge which I always thought was a really clean design. Wonder why that was changed.
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My guess is that, if you've tried to replace the batteries (as I have), you'll realize it's a huge pain in the butt to remove that piece, replace the batteries and put it back. A lot of times you can end up accidentally putting too much stress on the wires running to the pickups and vol/tone knobs, leading to issues later. Much easier to remove the back plate on the newer designs.
 
My guess is that, if you've tried to replace the batteries (as I have), you'll realize it's a huge pain in the butt to remove that piece, replace the batteries and put it back. A lot of times you can end up accidentally putting too much stress on the wires running to the pickups and vol/tone knobs, leading to issues later. Much easier to remove the back plate on the newer designs.

I've never found any issue actually. That said I will now knock on wood and keep my fingers crossed...
 
Switching gears... As much as I utilize compression I found it didn't do the RT bass any favors. In fact, most peddles in my aresenal be they modulation, EQ, dirt or reverb seemed to 'take away' much of what makes this instrument so special. Has anybody else found this to be the case with their respective RTs?
 
Mine doesn't have that rear access plate but has the jack/battery assembly built in the under edge which I always thought was a really clean design. Wonder why that was changed.

I kinda' liked that design better too... access to the trim pots was much simpler.

I also liked that one we saw a,while back with the volume & tone controls plate-mounted. I'd imagine it being a lot of trouble changing out a faulty pot in a Renaissance model... just from an access standpoint. How the heck else would you get to them?

If I can ever remember to, I'm going to ask RT about that sometime.
 
Question I never had anyone to ask. Do all Ren basses have the volume control that is stepped (as you turn it up/down there are notched steps opposed to being completely variable)?
I've been playing mine more lately and there have been instances where I was wanted to be between 2 steps.

Tone is completely variable why would volume not be?
Thanks.
Rob
 
Have you guys noticed how many Model Ones RT's been cranking out lately? There's 2015's all over Reverb, etc...

He did say something about heading that direction when the Michael Kelly lic. Rens starting filling some of that demand, but I haven't seen one yet other than a couple ebay sellers. I figured the big box outlets would jump on them. :hmm:

Wonder if it has something to do with maximizing the piezo pup somehow.

I use the detents as a reference... for me, two clicks on the tone, and wide open less one click on the volume. Those trim pots on your side-mounted battery box are adjustments for the piezo though.
 
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Those I have adjusted to where I like it. I guess I always thought between the clicks on the volume was not how it was meant to be run for some reason. It just always seemed odd. Maybe he used them because the positioning isn't ideal for seeing a notch on the knob so you could go by feel. Thanks for the responses.

Someone mentioned Michael Kelly. Are these in any kind of demand? I have a fretless Dragonfly I've had around for a few years now. I'm going to likely put up for sale as I rarely use it and got just for doodling in the house. Plugged in it sounds amazing with the built in Fishman but I'm really not a fretless player. It is a pretty instrument.
 
Very early (1980) Model One Bass on th' 'bay:

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Thought about saltymonkey's when I saw it. This one is a two-pickup issue, with a selector switch and a sweepable mid control. Also the Alembic style bridge, and earlier stoptail. Pretty sweet bass!
 
Nice bass, I don't recall seeing a 2 pickup version before.

I think the bridge is more Rickenbacker-like in design concept except for the single height adjustment screw on each side of the bridge vs. two on each side as on a Rick bridge.

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Need a bit of help here....

Does anybody have a good solution for using strap locks with a dingus?

Also.. Is there a good way to balance out the signal? The low strings are substantially louder than the high strings..

Help?

FretNoMore beat me to it on mounting straplocks. :thumbsup:

Actually, mounting *any* strap button securely on the Dingus requires a custom-fit screw. I prefer the larger diameter buttons over straplocks, and simply double the strap over to take up slack and make a somewhat tighter fit. I ground the tip off a regular wood screw, put a small bead of CA glue on the threads, then for a finished look I put an adhesive-backed felt circle over the facing side.

Regarding tonal balance, on earlier Rens, there should be two external trimpots for adjustment, one for gain and one for bass *I think*... (Jeff Scott, you got some experience here, yes?) I had the opposite - after mine came back from having a fretless conversion, the bass response was a little subdued. The solution, per RT was loosen the strings a couple turns, and ensure the saddle was firmly seated in the slot on top of the piezo element... simple fix.
 

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Earlier Renaissance side mounted control box, showing the trimpots. (as seen on RNG1's bass a couple pages ago) I suspect the newer models have these too, although internal.