• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join free Log in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Double Bass Repairing a broken neck joint

J

Jordan Ardoin

Feb 17, 2016
6
0
33
#1
So, about two years ago, I dropped my bass right before a gig cracking the neck joint. I actually played the gig, and the bass worked, but the action was terrible. Right after the gig, I took all tension off and brought it to a local luthier. They gave me a loaner for free while they're figured out the repair. I didn't get a call for two more years; she needed the loaner bass back and finally had time to repair mine. I get quoted for $300 which I think is a great price for a full neck reset, BUT I don't really get many gigs on upright anymore, and the bass was pretty cheap and was put through hell for several years when I was playing upright full time, so I'm not sure paying for it is even worth it.

I think I'd like to repair it myself. When I went to pick it up my luthier showed me that I could just pop the neck off with a little force (glue was the only thing holding it in place) and that I could probably just use some yellow glue and clamps to reset it, and I'm hoping you guys can give me some advice.

It looks like when I dropped it, the only damage was to the dove tail; you can see how it split on the right side slightly. I can push it back to normal with my hand. It seems like it would be pretty simple, but after reading around online, maybe I was wrong. What do you guys think? IMG_6864.jpg IMG_6866.jpg IMG_6867.jpg IMG_6868.jpg IMG_6869.jpg IMG_6871.jpg
 
#2
Find another luthier who doesn’t blow off the job you hired them to do for *two years* and then send you out the door with absolutely wrong advice.

I’ve done that repair, but much worse. You might be able to get away with fixing the crack with thin epoxy, and after the epoxy cures filling all the dead air space in that joint with carefully fitted spruce shins held in place with hot hide glue, and then once the fit is tight and right set the neck with hide glue.

Or it might need a new neck block fitted. Could go either way.
 
  • Like
Reactions: unbrokenchain, Jordan Ardoin, jsf729 and 2 others
#4
KUNGfuSHERIFF said:
Find another luthier who doesn’t blow off the job you hired them to do for *two years* and then send you out the door with absolutely wrong advice.

I’ve done that repair, but much worse. You might be able to get away with fixing the crack with thin epoxy, and after the epoxy cures filling all the dead air space in that joint with carefully fitted spruce shins held in place with hot hide glue, and then once the fit is tight and right set the neck with hide glue.

Or it might need a new neck block fitted. Could go either way.
Click to expand...

In her defense, it was a win/win for both of us. She got to hold on to my bass and expected to still get paid for the repair and lent me a much better bass that she wouldn't need until someone else asked to rent it. Granted, I decided to not let her repair it. Also, she was recommending the yellow glue as a quick and dirty fix because that's what I asked for; she quoted me for a full reset, not just regluing it. With that said, I wasn't even planning on repairing the bass if the cost was high. I brought it in to get a quote and picked up the loaner for a gig, and then just didn't hear back from her until she needed it. All in all, I was thankful for that setup and was hoping she would never call haha

As for your directions, you're saying to apply thin epoxy to that crack inside and clamp it down until it cures? or just filling it with epoxy as is? The rest seems pretty simple, just want to clear that up since I've never worked with epoxy.

Steven Ayres said:
Englehardt, right?

You'll need an evaluation from someone reliable. If you can share where you are, we may have some recs for you.
Click to expand...

Engelhardt EM-1, yes. I'm located in Lafayette, LA. I usually go to Sal Giardina in New Orleans for most of my work, but a new shop had opened up recently when it broke and they had loaner basses. Like I said before, I don't get many upright gigs anymore, so I'm not about to drop a bunch of money on a bass that already has other problems. Really just looking for a quick and dirty solution; if y'all told me to just put some wood screws in, I'd do it. If it doesn't hold up, I'll either retire from upright or put that ~$300 towards a down payment on a new one depending on if I start picking up gigs or not.
 
Last edited:
#6
$300 is a crazy low price for that repair done right imo.

I did this repair with some help, Why hide glue?
I'm a big fan of James's "ship inside a bottle" method there, sending lags through the block into the neck heel (along with a well fit joint and hot hide glue). Dry fit and drill/tap holes prior to glue, one way of doing it if you don't feel confident in the mortise sides. That's short of a new neck block, which is a better repair.
 
#7
I see no reason to resort to hardware, which can cause more problems than it solves.

OP, work epoxy into the crack as deeply as you can and clamp lightly to avoid excessive squeeze-out.

Worst comes to worst, call Gollihur Music and see if they have any precut Engel neck blocks for sale.
 
#9
Steven Ayres said:
It seems to me that, given where you are with the bass, your best course is probably to sell it as-is to someone who wants to fix and flip it. Please no bolts, screws, epoxy or yellow glue, any of which will do more damage and make it harder to repair.
Click to expand...

No white glue, either. I'm trying to remove the dovetail tenon from a (body only) EM-3 and was discomfited to discover that as I applied some moisture the glue turned white. I was not expecting that at all.

I do have a question regarding epoxy. I do understand that in an area where repairs may be necessary -- neck join, seams, etc. -- it's hide glue all the way, but I find myself in a gray area when it comes to things that got broke and shouldn't be, scroll re-attachments and necks that are just flat broken into pieces, for example. Stuff that should not have come apart in the first place and are so only because of misfortune/rough usage. If the component in question will be under string pull tension, I'm having a hard time accepting that hide glue will make a stronger, more durable bond than epoxy.
 
  • Like
Reactions: misterbadger
#12
Fwiw I'm not suggesting a drywall screw through the button or cutlery on the heel :laugh:.. rather a calculated, outwardly invisible and reversible addition of a lag or two accessed through the endpin hole with long extensions. But I hear ya, and if it can be done traditionally, mo better for sure
 
#14
Wow. James's second pic at least has a hint of steampunk about it. The first one looks like something that would have been conceived of by Poe. Or Torquemada.

I see in my previous post that by conflating two projects into a single post I have caused confusion.

1) I have an EM-3 body whose neck was snapped off prior to purchase by me but with the tenon still inside the mortise. To install a neck I have to remove the tenon, which is coming along, but in the process I am seeing white glue residue. I though Kay/Engle were hide all the way.

2
 
#16
KUNGfuSHERIFF said:
Nope.

That second pic with the spoon handles was sourced from a “luthier” in Vermont I won’t name.

The problem with most epoxies is that they creep under load, and once you contaminate a joint with epoxy, it’s pretty much game over it the repair fails.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the reply, KfS.

My previous post got sent before I meant it to, and only now am I realizing it. Project 2 shall have no epoxy. It is a half-size BSO which I bought for the body, the neck being broken in three places. Two of the pieces have been reunited, but the third remains unattached. It is the most problematic because it includes the scroll and about four and one-half inches of neck which has to be reunited with the back of the fingerboard. Thus my concern with load-bearing. The challenge will be clamping, and would be a challenge no matter which was the chosen adhesive. So I will go with hide.
 

Latest posts

Top Bottom
Back