Replace Blend Pot with VVT

I would recommend, based on my own experience, 500k linear for your volumes and 250k audio for your tone. For my taste a 0.1uF cap is far to big - rolled back it just creates a flubby mess. But the result does depend a lot on the impedance of the pickup, so it might work for you.

EDIT: I wouldn't go with a 500k tone pot. All that happens is the control does nothing until you get to the last 1/4 turn - it becomes a switch.

The cap switch is a good idea, but did you know you can actually get 3 settings from 2 caps if you use a DPDT On-On-On 'pickup selector' type switch? The three settings are 'one', 'the other' or 'both'. Here's how I did it on my PJ - Ignore the resistor and greasebucket switch and just imagine the bottom of both caps going straight to ground.


The switch works like this:

 

There is always room for experiments, but here are a couple suggestions for a passive P/J that have done me well in my experiences...
-For maximum flexibility with the P/J, have some sort of series/parallel switch just for the P pickup (I usually use a push/pull tone control for this so I don't have to push/pull volume controls that may or may not be set to a specific spot). This way you can cop a more convincing J type tone with the P pickup in parallel and blended with the bridge pickup.
-If going VVT, linear taper volumes give a wider range of finer adjustment. The value you choose will be based on what you prefer. 250K is the traditional value on Fender basses, 500K will give a little more bite to the tone, which can be rolled back with the tone control or amp setting. I posit that Fender used audio taper 250K pots everywhere to keep the amount of part numbers in stock to a minimum.
-Regardless of the volume pot values, I always up my Fender tone controls to a 500K audio taper. It adds a small touch of air, and it's easily rolled back to around 7 or so to sound just like a 250K pot on 10.
-The 3 way selectable tone cap switch is also a cool idea for getting a lot of tones. Just know that you don't really hear the cap differences until you are pretty deep into the control--like around 4 or lower on it's setting, and the differences are very noticeable from 0-2. The suggestion of a .022uF and .047uF is solid.

 

You could always go 0.033uF and 0.047uF, for a combined value of 0.080uF...